Loving your build cos its basically what I want to do. I didn't actually know it was called 'Brat' style but it's what I'm after.
The handle bar risers were off eBay, used items. They look like lsr ones but I'm not sure. I tried to start the bike today using an aux fuel tank and it started first time - result! Unfortunately the start switch fell apart and the neutral switch konked. I got some switchgear from a 2000 Sprint ST and it works fine with the same connections. The engine sounds good but I connected the fuel line only. I blanked off the prime and vac line which I hope is correct. Anyone who has any knowledge of this let me know, I will listen to anyone's advice! I need to fit the brakes and clutch levers next and get them functional.
Really interesting, angry sky, nice job. I'm in the early stages of doing something similar to a 1200 Trophy - I've got a Commando interstate tank and am probably going to mod a Laverda Jota II fairing to fit. Any chance of a full side on shot so I can see properly how the tank sits?
Hi, I have not posted for a while but the build is still ongoing. Now the riding season is over (for some of us anyway), I can now get back to the Trophy. Posted a few pics below as we all like a picture to look at. I know it wont be to everyone's taste but I have done it for myself to ride. Jobs for the winter now its up and running: Fit K&N's and get it set up on the dyno Source and fit digital dash as the clocks look crap Remove tyres, powder coat wheels and engine covers at same time Fit Continental Twinduro tyres Fit final drive chain Fit bar end indicators I would like a nice alloy fork brace but cannot seem to find one, bit more searching required. Anyway here are the pics
Hi Great job on the bike, i bet it moves now with all that weight taken off. Have you thought/tried fitting pod filter's to change the look. I've used them on mine with some bigger main jets, lifting the needle and opening up the tickover jets. Runs very smoothly with some extra grunt Cheers Chris
What a great write up and super pictures following this closely, well done and its looking great so much different than it started out, PS Think Chris's above idea of pod filters would look very good
Thanks for all the encouragement. I will be fitting pod filters but wanted to get it running with the airbox first and convert to pods afterwards. I have heard horror stories changing Mikuni's to pods so preferred to get it on a Dyno to set up properly. Going to rebuild the fuel tap before filling the tank as I'm not confident it will work. Also thinking of white wheels or maybe off white, any opinions gratefully received.
Hi The pods I fitted were from Hinckley spares, these have a deep coller so once on they don’t obstruct the opening slit on the top of the Mikuni carb to allow the needle jet to rise. The other changes to the carb, needle lift, increase main jet and open up the tick over jets are pretty straight forward. I do have the original exhaust system on so your setting may differ slightly and obviously balancing the carbs is key. I’d be really interested in the carb changes made to yours from the standard setting on the Dino Cheers Chris
I think that would work, pick up the white stripes on the tank, Although I am very very sure someone will be along shortly telling you it has to stay all BLACK AS BLACK IS BEST
BLACK AS BLACK IS BEST [/QUOTE] Wise words my friend....wise words Couldn't have put it better myself
Well I took the bike out for a run and it was a hoot. Couldn't get it to start till I noticed the throttle cable outer was caught up at the handlebar end, didn't realise this would stop the bike starting. I'm now at a crossroads. Get K&N pods and get local Dyno shop to try to set up or wait for set of Keihins to come along, fit them knowing that it will be easier to do. I assume I will need carb rubbers for these too. Any opinions?
Hi Sky In order to insure the pods fitted securely, I used some ‘‘spunge based” double sided tape around the carb inlet before positioning the pod filters and securing. Just make sure your not obstructing the small slit across the top of the carb inlet body. This allows the diaphragm to move effectively as the throttle is opened. Open up the idle jets, (see my previous posts) to richen up the mixture to ensure smooth acceleration from low revs. Also increase the main jet size, (see my previous posts) to richen up the mixture as the carb is being opened up. I also lifted the needle to it max setting. If your bike pulls well from closed throttle to fully open without any flat spots or hesitation, your setup won’t be far wrong. I would Dino test if your having trouble but if it pulls well till full throttle i’d Save your money. Balancing your carbs using some vacuumed gauges is key, I would invest in a set of these gauges before spending on Dino test, easy to use and fairly cheap. Sorry if your well up on this already but it is useful discussion for other members All the best Chris
I like the look of the bike, but the cloth battery case stands out too much for me. I would die it black so it fades into the bike, or even brown leather to match the seat. It’s easy for me to sit here and comment, your in the arena doing !!! Well done
Ok I have decided to keep the Mikuni's, the pods on your bike look great so will order some from Sprint. I spoke to a local firm called Retrotune who are just a couple of miles from me and they are happy to set them up using their Dyno. I spent weeks trying to set up carbs on a 400 bandit and it's an experience I want to forget. Plus I want it on the road for the summer. I will try to find out the changes they have to make and publish it on here. It may help someone in the future. Thanks for the input always appreciated.
