Featured Potential New Triumph Owner

Discussion in 'Vintage Classics' started by HMC_MT, Nov 30, 2020.

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  1. Cyborgbot

    Cyborgbot Guest

    Sorry @HMC_MT I have only just discovered this gem of a thread. Proper engineering and tinkering!

    Love what ur doing.

    Keep it up.
     
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  2. HMC_MT

    HMC_MT Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2020
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    I appreciate that very much! Just part of the process of starting a love affair with a bike I guess.

    As for Darkman and the like using old "obsolete" stuff to be just plain awesome I have a 70s Yamaha that was bound for a part out due to a mess of ignition problems. Bare metal tank, ratty and I love that bike. I actually switched the CDI ignition for a points setup never intended for that bike, timed it and it's bulletproof. So many times on that one I was one mistake away from ruining the bottom end. All that has just formed a bond like no other.
     
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  3. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
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    I completely understand your feelings on obsolete and also original fittings as i had that dilemma with my 66 TT build as i'm all about originality with my old bikes, originally it came with ET ignition and i'm not great with electrics at the best of times let alone with energy transfer ignition, so in the end i went with a single phase alt and Boyer ignition but i used the Boyer power box as well and a Boyer dual output coil, really pleased with the outcome and how easy it was to hide it all away with a very obscure loom.
     
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  4. HMC_MT

    HMC_MT Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2020
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    The advantage is I let the British wiring intimidate me to the point of going through the entire harness which actually gave me a ton of knowledge on how it's wired, testing, potential problem areas etc. The wiring was done very well and makes sense although it's not stock. I've since drawn my own diagram. Yes I could buy a coil and be in business, continue improvements but I never liked the clusterfk of wires at the front of the bike that were necessary for making his system work. The Boyer is going to make the bike not only better but more understandable for me, a step in making it my own, as he did.
     
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  5. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
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    Talk about learning fast :) i will admit to having a chuckle at your hissy fit/rant in your earlier post as that would be me years ago but luckily i'm at that point in life i now enjoy working building bikes as much as i do riding them, keep up the great work and keep posting updates :)
     
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  6. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    hey

    i keep forgetting that he wired this with the fuse in the ground wire. nothing wrong with that. but it means that the wire from battery to ignition switch will always be the hot one.

    bear that in mind if you back through this stuff with questions about th efuse.
     
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  7. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    there is nothing wrong with ditching energy transfer. i have no experience with it and don't want any.

    the T120 TT machines are rare and beautiful birds, and for people who just want to put them in a museum the original ignition is the way to go. but if you ever want to actually ride them then there are some changes that are very hard to argue against.
     
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  8. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    #128 speedrattle, Mar 20, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2021

    the thing about the parallel system is that you have a spark every 360 degrees, one on the cylinder under compression and the other under exhaust. so one is always a waste spark, and they alternate, left and right. just like th eboyer you bought.

    but the points cam rotates at half-crank speed, so the contact points has to interrupt the current to the coil at the correct time. that means that at least one set of points has to be closed to energize the coil, and then both sets have to be open to make a spark, with the last set of points opening at the timing mark of 38 BTDC. if one set is opening but the other is still closed, there won't be a spark.

    i think this means that both sets of contact points still have to be set at 38 BTDC, but i would have to open the thing up and watch to see whether the coil would have enough dwell and then fire correctly every 360 this way. my head swims at this.

    the magneto i use turns at half-speed, but s set up to fire four spark plugs at once, every 360 degrees. so there are two live sparks and two waste sparks every 360 degrees. but it does it the easy way with one set of points and a two-bump contact breaker cam.
     
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  9. HMC_MT

    HMC_MT Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2020
    174
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    Billings MT
    #129 HMC_MT, Mar 20, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2021
    That all actually does make sense to me Wizard Speedrattle, but, moral of the story...I can't wait to Boyer. :) Also, noted on the hot (main fuse) bit.
     
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  10. HMC_MT

    HMC_MT Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2020
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    Is there a site such as Partzilla for Triumph stuff that has the exploded view parts diagrams? Grabbing a couple things such as primary cover gasket (mine leaks a bit) and would be a good resource for me to have as I move forward. I know I have gaskets in the stash but would they be good to use since they're probably old/not sealed?

    Also got this coming with the Boyer:
    https://vintagetriumphsupply.com/fu...vXHqxx3K7yVrxm2-d-9vnVzh1QXTxZZIaAv5_EALw_wcB
     
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  11. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
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    You can download books online or the best bet is to buy a parts book and workshop manual as they are far better.
     
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  12. HMC_MT

    HMC_MT Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2020
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    THE BOYER IGNITION IS OUT FOR DELIVERYYYYYY TODAY. I'm nervous already. :)
     
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  13. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    worry not. setting up is straightforward.
     
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  14. HMC_MT

    HMC_MT Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2020
    174
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    With the help of Wizard Speedrattle and Darkman we'll be golden. Can't wait to be back on the road!
     
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  15. HMC_MT

    HMC_MT Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2020
    174
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    Oh man.

    IMG_20210322_151035197.jpg
     
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  16. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
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    Have fun and take your time :)
     
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  17. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    #137 speedrattle, Mar 23, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
    there you go. read the instructions over several times.

    you will be taking out the old wires starting from the ignition switch, going to the coil and condensers, and then down to the ignition points. take off the coil and the condensers, remove the points plate and the AAU. all the rest of your wiring stays.
     
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  18. HMC_MT

    HMC_MT Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2020
    174
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    Read through everything a couple times and watched a youtube on it. Seems fairly straightforward but I'm gonna wait until I have the right time to be able to focus on it, do it right, be meticulous. I think the first thing I'm going to have a question on is the best way to be sure I'm on the compression stroke. When doing valves or timing on a Honda there's a little play at the crank or I'll put a finger over the plug hole to feel compression. Is there a better more accurate way. I do have a dial indicator that reads in thousandths and I think I have a timing wheel in the stash I got with the bike.
     
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  19. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    #139 speedrattle, Mar 23, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
    finger over the hole is still the simplest, but you can do it visually as well.

    take off the valve cover caps. when the right side is on compression both valves will be closed-- the rockers will rattle under your fingers because of the clearance-- and the piston will be coming up. stick a long zip tie down the plug hole to make sure its rising.

    the left cylinder will be on exhaust with the intake closed.and the exhaust open.

    stop when the timing pointer lines up on the mark on the alternator rotor on the left side, behind the round cover with 3 screws. or you may have a slot in the crank at 38 btdc that you get at under that hex head on the cases just below the rear pushrod tube.
     
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  20. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    theres a tool to use in that timing hole that looks like a threaded plug with a hole through it. you screw the plug into the hole and then poke a fitted rod in so it rubs on the crank gently as you rotate the motor. when the 38 btdc slot passes by the rod drops into the slot and stops the motot. some have a tdc slot too.

    i didnt see any of these in your boxez of toolz when i looked
     
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