Featured New Member, New Build

Darkman, yep, never had Morgo jugs before so as it needed new barrels and pistons I thought I'd go with it. The barrels are shaped like the head so they look pretty as well.

Any old end up, I had some cement in a cup, did me shoelaces up and pulled up socks. That cheered me up so cracked on with plan for gearbox.

Here's the home made clutch spring removal tool. Sometimes those spring ends catch on the little dimples on the mushrooms and are a bugger to get out. Little screwdriver in between mushroom and spring helps



Pressure plate off exposing clutch plates



Nuts on both crank and main shaft to come off. So I wedge in a rubbery vice thingy. You can buy a special rubbery thing called Barbie Steps but they cost a small fortune and are made of the same stuff, my rubbery vice thingy was free and can be used as a vice thingy

 

Here's the crank nut removed - for info for @HMC_MT - you can see how long it is



Stick in the special tool to hold clutch centre onto basket. You can make one of these by bolting two old clutch plates together - but I couldn't be bothered so bought a proper one



Took nut etc out and the clutch centre came free. Normally the whole clutch would stay as a unit but as it's been recently rebuilt it sort of came out in my hand. You can see the roller bearings, they have fallen out once the centre came free so not going to put the centre back in, will carry on with it out

 

I have no idea why I get two pictures each time I load, so I'll keep each entry smaller, maybe that'll work.

Took primary assembly out and gathered up the 20 roller bearings - count them carefully



Another special tool to remove clutch centre

 

Vialla, valhalla, voila, violin...erm - sorted! Sometimes these are a real bugger to get off, again recent rebuild makes things easy.

 

Now we're getting to the actual issue. Removed the cover plate to expose the front sprocket.



Each time I went out for a poodle, a few drops of oil would appear on the floor. Tracing it back along frame and engine cases to the front sprocket area. Feel up each side of sprocket as it's either coming out of the gearbox or primary.
If you use proper smelly gearbox oil you can tell what's on the floor and know where it's coming from. But me being me, I use engine oil so I have to feel for the leak.

 

The high gear bronze bush on the main shaft has a little ridge/trench worn in it by the oil seal in the cover plate. Given that this has been running since 1964, and it's a nice oily place for little stones etc to hang about, it's not a surprise these get worn. I hoped that a new oil seal would cure it as there's only oil splashing about in the primary - nope.

 

So, the cure is to get at the main shaft and replace the bushing. But I'm not good at machining so there's another way. The Mandolorian "This is the Way".

This is the dangerous bit - removing a tight front sprocket. I know it's tight 'cause I tightened it up. Put an old chain around said sprocket, put piece of wood between engine and vice, and clamp chain in vice.



Get big 'fuck off' socket that suits early engines. Flatten tab washer and remove nut with bar etc.



Last year I spent some time up the local A&E getting the web between my middle and ring fingers stitched up due to the socket slipping and me bashing my hand on the stator bolts. Because it's a difficult place to stitch they want to anethetise, annethatize, .... deaden the area first. This is done by injecting into the actual split between the fingers. But first they need to prove that the split bleeds. As I'd been waiting for a while before I was seen, it had stopped bleeding. Bleeding was encouraged by using a very rough Scotch Brite. Sure enough, that worked. It also encouraged lots of pain before and during several injections into the split. But I didn't feel the stitching up at all, so that was good.

 

Take off the gearbox outer cover





And gearbox inner cover

 

Take out the gearbox cluster. Note the thrust washer placement and keep it sort of together - cause they are confusing. This is a 4 speed.



Once the front sprocket is removed from the other side of the gearbox, the high gear can be removed. Here's the little sod



And here it is complete with cover plate and pesky worn ridge/groove in bronze bushing



Just going off for me tea, hang on, over

 

Here's the solution to the seeping





A later year (1968 if memory serves) high gear and cover plate with appropriate oil seal. Same internal diameter just a bit bigger external diameter made of steel. This will last longer and the front sprocket should slide right on.

 

There's no oil ring on these early Trumpet front sprockets like there are on the T140s. So, maybe, oil could run along the splines. This will require a load of silicon/bondy type stuff applied liberally when rebuilding.
And what a load of stuff there is to put back together. Freezer bags are well handy for keeping nuts and bolts all labelled up. Especially if you've got more than one bike in bits.

 

Fiddle about getting the gearbox back in. I sort it with the cam plate in First Gear and build the gears up rather than trying to put the whole cluster in one piece.



Go round t'other side and seal up the new high gear on the main shaft. Not much chance on getting oil out here but while I'm here I may as well.



Put on tab washer and big nut. Give everything a wipe as the surface needs to be clean where the oil seal is going to run

 

Clean up the gasket surfaces and install a new one. Stick the thrust washer onto the inner gearbox cover and wang the cover on.



Pull the inner cover out a bit so the quadrant can move freely and index with a straight edge. While holding the quadrant in place push the inner cover on, sorted.

 

As I've installed a rear wheel speedo drive, the gearbox drive isn't needed.



I'll leave the gearing in place and seal up with the normal drive o ring and a speedo cable drive end with a cut rubber insert. Should stop any oil from the gearbox finding it's way out here.

 

Use ye olde vice with an olde chain to tighten everything up to the required ftlbs or Nm as recommended within ye olde maintenance manual. Don't rely on any Haynes manual, get the proper one, they are easily available to download free online.



Used new tab washers and bend over - otherwise what's the point.

 

Temporarily put the outer gearbox cover on and test the gears. One down and three up, four down, one up neutral, three up, forth, four down, first. Yep, all seems ok, sorted.



Found the oil block and gasket from stash and bolt it on before outer cover goes on permanently

 

New cover plate with appropriate oil seal

 

Rebuild the clutch hub with the 20 roller bearings and thrust washer, stick the basket over and on with the centre. Threadle the primary chain and front sprocket



And wang it back into the primary



"Time for tea" said Florence