Aw mate I keep saying to my son, I’m still just as quick as I was, am i f#*k that’s why I got rid of a Gixer thou and and a 675r for a Thruxton. And that gets the better of me too
I am cursed and blessed. I blame my father. He taught me, if a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing right. Rear brakes binding, rear outside pad metal to metal on NSR and OSR not long behind it. Bought some nice vented discs and EBC pads for the front, and a full set of Discs and pads for the rear and 4 stainless disc bolts. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to sort that lot out? No, not me. Am currently running at 7 hours and that's only 3 hubs stripped, cleaned and painted and not even finished them before last one to do !!!!! I have to clean and waxoyl all the suspension, don't I Have to paint the calipers shiny blue, don't I Have to clean pistons down, caliper pins and put RRG in the right places Can't just strip, service and replace can I !!!!! But, Hay-Ho. It'll work feckin ace when finished (3 of 4 calipers were seized and gripping the discs), and it looks really nice. And next time, any job will be piss easy cos everything is nice and cleaned and waxoyl'd. So really, I should be thankful. Plus what better way to spend Xmas eve & Boxing day, than lying outside in the frost on Monday and drizzle today Painted rear discs with BBQ paint, so we'll see if it lasts ? Fronts came ready coated, to keep the non-contact surface from rotting away. Will spend most of its life stood, so trying to limit the rot. DOn't look pretty when wet. Looked like a ship's anchor before I got in there with chisel, wire brush & flap wheel. Even my hat matches !!!
Just caliper paint off eBay. Bought for the ST, but you don't use much, so using what's left on the Mini.
Yeah, but it only uses 2 of 3 shock top bolts. Am going to get a template measured up soon. Not doing grass Autotesting till May, so have time to get it sorted. Need to make sure it's running right, before we start modifying.
Mr O and all, please be careful and aware that using stainless bolts in safety critical areas is not ideal. I appreciate you are trying to create a nice and tidy job but grade 304 and 316 stainless MAY not be suitable due to the lower tensile strength. A typical, usually zinc or cadmium plated, steel bolt would be of the 8.8 variety but may also be 12.9. Stainless bolts I.e. A1, A2 or A5, there may be others, have significantly less. Don't take my word for it, do a web search and if you can't reliably do the calculations then stick to standard for peace of mind Even with a single shear design I appreciate the bolt diameter may be well in excess but why risk it?
The stainless are just the countersunk ones to hold discs on. I am well aware of not using stainless in high tensile applications, thanks. Used stainless when rebuilding my Series 3 Land Rover. That was built to be covered in mud, so was worth the expense. But not bothering on the Mini.
A series 3 landrover, like any landrover, now there's a full time job! Once built a Range Rover into a 90 with a 3.9 v8, four speed rangey box and a centre mounted Fairey pto winch. Now that was a tool. The winch easily pulled two landrover at once and with four speeds it was quick. Had to move it onto high ratio transfer box gears as it was fun spinning the wheels in the dry out of junctions but with about 10 mpg something had to give.
Spent the morning designing the plates for my suspension lift. Started with a 3" / 76 mm tube, but changed to a 89mm OD tube to reduce bending on the plate. @andyc1 - The photo good enough or would it be better as a scan? Can email it across.
The only one I see I've missed is the centre line. It's half way along the 115mm centre measurement, on lh side of the drawing. Cheers Andy
All these new generation games seem to miss the point of ‘games’ they’re all way to real and not as fun as they used to be. Wow I’m old!
That's it sorted. R&A Developments have designed the top plate for the mini spacers. We thought we had worked out an a 162mmm pcd, but it didn't work out. Feckin stoopid girmins , you'd have thought they'd worked it !!! Nope. The wee notch is because they are going to be handed. Will be identical, but the notch has to go to the outside and they'll fit perfect. It's amazing what two bored, technically minded chaps can do in a day Cheers @andyc1
Yes Andy I've created dxf files on Autocad. I have a manual plasma cutter that would cut items like these but you would need to create a template first.
How accurate can you be with manual tho? The big advantage with a Lazer profile cutter, is the repeatability. You know number 4 is going to be exactly like number 2345.
Yes fully agree Mr O. For prototyping manual is fine but so old hat now in terms of production runs. I was surprised to see so many old school methods employed at Norton on the Henry Cole programme. Spoke to someone last week and apparently he's purchased a new Norton and delivery was promised for October 2018..... still waiting! Says it all really.
That's the last corner cleaned up. All bits painted, ready for assembly this week. Alloy calipers on the back. Corrosion had set in where the rubbers are, that sit on the sliding pins. Blown them out, so rubbers were gripping the pins, that's why the outside pads were both down to the metal. Of the 4 brakes, I was not able to turn 3 of them by hand Wee thing should bloody fly, now I'm not driving with the handbrake on !!!
All braking upgraded. Rotor-Disc front discs with EBC pads, just plain ol' Unipart kit on the rear. Well pleased with how it's all turned out and looks the biz. The wheels actually rotate now, when not braking !!! And they stop when you apply the brakes. (Couldn't actually say that before) Just chucked the rally spec tyres on for fun. Maybe my suspension lift is too high ??? Tyre's don't even touch the ground now !!! Had a go at the gear change mech today as well, moves about a bit freer now its all greased up. Getting the battery box out was a right feckin PITA. Steel bolt with a nut captive in plastic. So the bolt corrodes and the nut spins out Chewed one bolt out, snapped the corner of the battery box on the other. 3 holding instead of 4, should be OK.
