Hi guys, how are you today? So the findings are : 1) stator connectors & wires are in perfect condition, not melted, no dark marks or anything suspect… 2) multimeter tests : a) stator connector terminals tested 2 at a time between them shows resistance = 0 b) stator connector terminals tested on engine ground = 1 (infinite) Did the test 3 times to be sure, tester on 2000 -20K - 2000k ohm So R/R seems guilty….I would have bet on the stator but it is much better this way, this part is much easier to replace and a bit cheaper If I think a bit further, in my opinion of electricity nerd, it seems logical becaue if stator was burnt, it should not deliver electricity at all, but I had 12,7 & 12,9 V at 2000 & 4000 RPM instead of 12,5 at idle….
Indeed your findings suggest stator is good.and indeed it points to the R/R being the failure. The latter part however - even a failed stator will still produce voltage and current from the other two phases - just not enough to supply all the bike's load requirements; indeed you would find if you pulled the headlights fuse, that the voltage would probably come up to 'normal' levels, after removing about 10A of current load.
This thread is, for me, just one more example of the things that are SO GOOD about this forum and the people on it. D'Ecosse and Joe you've done a really great job of getting to the heart of another forum member's problem in a clear, friendly, helpful, non-patronising way. Love it. Hope you're both around if/when I need to sort out any similar problems!!
Adie P Thanks mate. That's what brothers do to help each other. And you are excellent aswel. Ride Safe &Regards Joe.
Manuel C You are doing great mate. Give your self a big pat on the back. You got your hands dirty and are on the way to fixing your bike. Remember we all started this way fear of trying is the enemy. Wish I had more electrical know how. My boy does all my sparky work. And trying not to brag but he's bloody good. Regards Joe.
Manuel C That would be a privilege for me. We can go for a spin together. France has so much beauty its worth the trip and yes I will let you know. So get that bike sorted you never know mate. Thanks and Regards Joe.
....didn't succeed in finding part réf or specs....found a LN R/R quite cheap.... but I'm a bit puzzled by the various prices & shapes available.... ...
I seem to remember an updated RR for most triumphs is a newer MOSFET style? Check this thread: https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/regulator-rectifier-issue-on-2005-sprint-st-1050.4611/ Like These: http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-...ch&SS=Triumph+sprint&ACTION=Search&PR=-1&TB=A https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/ty...eed-four-tripple-sprint-rs-st-tiger-rm30507h/
I bought one from eBay for my Speedmaster, together with new connectors, just looked for bolt hole pitch, think it was for a 2004-2007 Kawasaki ZX10, it sits in my box of goodies for when I need it.
Thx for the links, I think I've found a LN parts R/R that fits for good price…. you're in trouble with a regulator? then listen your clutch! LOL
HI No good news...I replaced the R/R with the new spare part this evening : Started the engine with a fully charged battey => - 12,5 V at idle - 13, 2 V at 4000 RPM - 13,2 V at 5000 RPM.... Then checked again the stator => still infine on ground…. it seems that the problem is elsewhere on the circuit...anybody has an idea? Thx, MC
Anything in the 13's says that nothing is actually a failure Voltage is going to depend on state of charge of battery - if battery is pulling current (to bring to full charge) then voltage will not instantly go to the 14.x level. Low voltage at idle - idle rpm produces the lowest voltage situation - when supplying additional current (for charging battery) then voltage may indeed be lower than ideal Low 13's at higher rpm - this says both stator and R/R are actually functioning - if a phase is down, it could never reach this level (that is at least assuming you have a 'normal' load, i.e. the lights are on - please advise if any of your measurements do NOT have lights on) The OEM wiring gives a significant loss (up to 1V) from the R/R to the battery One remedy to improve is to bypass factory wiring and connect the R/R directly to the battery - negative directly and positive via its own 30A fuse. This will certainly give improved voltage over any situation But first, give bike good long run and see what voltage are upon your return (once battery is fully charged - hopefully) So before you shut it off, again measure the voltage at the rpms indicated (I would prefer to see something just slightly off idle - say 2k rpm as an additional data point) Then see what battery itself is like Shut off engine then measure a) voltage with ignition off b) voltage with ignition (and lights!) on There WILL be a drop - the state of charge of the battery will be indicated by how much it drops and also how fast it continues to drop over the course of say 1 minute. If the battery is not capable of accepting a full charge, then the 'on' condition will be low and continuing to drop at a reasonable rate. (a few tenths over a minute would be expected - anything beyond, especially if number low to begin with, says battery past its useful life) p.s. What type of R/R did you use? I don't know what L/N Parts item is ............ If this is a cheap Chinese module, I would recommend something better
OK, I'll do that... lights were on (automatic…) during test The R/R has no markings on it & was sent without any sheet or refs...so I Don't know where it was built and its specs….
Good Morning all...I've finished to fix back everything (including new R/R) on the bike and I'm ready to go for a ride andcheck voltage when back. Departure within 5-10 mins. I will not use heated handles…. LN parts is a British company based in Braintree essex which provides parts made in England Chinaa & EU...so the R/R is probably a Chinese one….
