Clutch Casing Replacement Now Bike Won’t Start

Batteries can die suddenly and unpredictably and still throw out enough amps to illuminate a few bulbs but insufficient grunt to spin an engine.

 

No sensor as such. If you are in gear the neutral switch acts as an ignition lock out unless the clutch is pulled in.

 

The meter won’t help......the battery needs load testing - an electrical load to check amperage not mere volts.
Got a car and some spare domestic flex (in the absence of jump leads)? Strip and nip the cable in the clamps and fire up the bike....... (or not!). Ignore earth core.

 

Im not sure of your model
Most of these bikes have a cut off at the Clutch lever on the handle bar, also a cut off normally behind the pivot of the side stand switch these will stop your bike from starting under certain conditions. Put up the side stand and pull the clutch lever when starting.
If there is a problem with either then you can eliminate one at a time.
In the clutch housing the is a crank position sensor, the ones Ive seen are over on the right side of the housing this reads the crank to establise where the ignition is in order to start the bike.

 

Dont run the engine and make sure you connect + to +

 

As long as the car is not running you are in no danger of receiving more from its charging circuit than your tender bike electrics can take. The battery alone delivers a safe output.

 

Is that when you are riding with mates and some one hits it for you

 

A former mate....

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-...401192300560?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

 

https://www.thetriumphforum.com/thr...art-try-running-through-this-checklist.12935/

 

Have you actually tried to charge the battery yet?
If the charge is too low ( but battery not goosed ) it can act as a resistor ( the battery that is)
So if you’ve not charged it yet get it on a charger / optimiser overnight.
Remove the battery from the bike and charge it that way.