10mm seems way low ! they are normally about 20-22mm as supplied with very little thread showing. Are you measuring between fully extended with rear wheel off the floor and bike upright on suspension and not on side stand. A mistake I have made myself before now ?
Wd40 is great for multiple problems! I use it quite often... grease on your hands? Or paint? Remove chain grease from back wheel? All done in a second!
holy crap that’s a lot of static sag. My quick measuring yesterday was me lifting the rear of the bike up and the wife measuring. When my brother comes over we will get the rear wheel off the ground. I hope your right because my total sag (10mm static & 30mm rider without full gear on) of 40mm is a little more than I would like to start with. And this is with cold suspension fluids as well. It would be nice to be able to compress the spring a little, if not time for a lighter spring. At 12.5 stones I’m hoping the 34/100 spring will be the right spring.
Yes too much. The preload needs increasing to make static sag about 14 mm I lift the rear wheel off floor by pushing bike over on side stand til rear lifts then wedge a piece of wood under the frame by rider footpeg. Makes it easy to measure ..
If you have another person to help, just take a measurement when the wheel is off the ground on the kick stand. If not I like the wedge technique
Took delivery of my Matt Black 2018 RS yesterday and looking to remove the tank stickers tomorrow so thanks for this ! I'm going for the hairdryer to heat up and remove the stickers then your WD40 tip ! Cheers
I thought Dave Moss recommends just using two fingers either side on a solid part of the bike not struggling to lift the whole arse end off the floor. I adjusted the preload on my 2013 Street Triple R and the bike felt horrible and I ended up softening it back up. It felt like a dog dragging its arse on the floor and the front end felt like it wanted to wash out all the time. I know the new ST is a different bike but back then they never had enough adjustment available for a proper rear sag figure. There was about 8mm if I remember right.
Good luck. For me the stickers came off without any heat needed. Then I used a bit of alcohol but now I’m thinking WD40 would have been best.
To measure static sag it requires the tire off or nearly off the ground for the measurement, front and rear, as per Dave Moss. As far as how your bike felt after adjusting static sag, there was more going on than that. Static sags main purpose is to ensure the shock is not topped out and has room to allow for hard impacts that would transmit that impact straight to your ass sending it out of the seat. Rider sag (static plus rider weight) levels your bike from front to rear. Meaning when you sit on it it’s balanced, not compressing down more in the front or rear of the bike. If it’s not level for street riding, it could have a negative impact on the way your bike will handle. What you’re describing sounds like compression and rebound damping issues, not sag issues. If your sag front and rear were balanced it would not have the affects you described above. Blowing through the suspension travel is a compression problem, meaning not enough of the oil is being restricted to slow the fork, or shocks compression. That could have been the front end washing out issue. Also, if rebound isn’t balanced front and rear, and having a controlled rate of return, one end or the other is returning to a neutral position quicker than the other which will upset the balance as well. The ass end of the bike squatting or dragging is ass sounds like the compression is too soft and rebound is way too slow, it shouldn’t squat too much and when it does compress some the rear end should come back up quickly. Just my 2 pennies, or more like 4
Yeah, I understand how it all work and didn’t mean I hadn’t adjusted the preload for my weight, I did the rider sag too but the point I was making was by the time RS was adjusted there was no SS. The spring obviously wasn’t suitable for my weight (15 stone). I know my way around suspension adjusters and believe me I did adjust it all to suit but it felt terrible. Check out the DM site and on the front page the very first testimonial was for my old RR9 Fireblade. The point I was making was that the STR suspension was a compromise and was much better after the Daytona rear Ohlins was fitted.
I used to wipe over my Daytona with hot water on a cloth to remove stubborn mess, usually dead flies then used Halfords spray can Brake cleaner which evaporates very quickly to clean the whole bodywork. Kept it three years and it always looked good
That’s exactly what I do with regards to the hot water and a microfibre cloth after each ride. I’ve heard of people using brake cleaner but have never tried it myself. Very nice bike by the way. I alway wanted to ride a Daytona, but never had the chance. Maybe one day.
Frigging tank stickers. I’ve got to get them off my new Bobber, so I guess I’ll be buying some WD40. I used coconut oil on my Indian, but I was left with trying to get the excess off, for quite a while.
Removed the stickers on my Tiger the other day, 4 of the things on the petrol tank alone! 8 in total.... I used a hot air gun to remove them initially and brake cleaner to clean the residue off.
Congrats on the Tiger. That’s a good idea to stick them to the side of the tool box. I also removed the VIN sticker off the frame. It looks a little shabby as it doesn’t stick very well anyway.
I couldn't figure out why there were stickers on the mirror. Guess lawyers were a 2 for 1 sale that day. I mean if you don't know at least that much about a bike, why the hell are you riding one?
Alrighty, a quick update on the sag measurements. 12.5 stones without gear. -Front static 17.5mm -Front rider 18mm -Total front sag 35.5mm ————————————- -Rear static 17mm -Rear rider 18mm -Total rear sag 35mm
