Very nice indeed. Have you heard the stock cans without the discs and baffles? If so, how do the SC cans compare? I’m actually quite happy with the sound with the above done. Very deep and has some volume now.
Yeah I drilled the stock ones out.. I think at idle the Sc project does rumble that bit more but it’s when your out riding u notice even more..the growl brings a smile to my face.The downshift especially...What pushed me was the look the bike looks the balls...especially with the carbon cans. Looks angry
Did you remove the discs and cut out the baffles on the stockers? Yes it definitely looks Awesome, much better than stock cans. Are they the smaller cans? I noticed on the SC site it looks like they two sizes SC1-M and the Oval cans.
Yeah,there the Sc 1.. I thought they looked better than the oval ones..as u say they are longer and don’t look as good when looking at the bike from the back..Sc 1 are more expensive though Sc 1 comes with two stickers one bigger than the other,I put the bigger ones on... I just drilled out the discs then decided on getting these..going to try and get this vid on without the baffles soon...my neighbors have been doing a lot off hanging around in their garden
Yeah, the SC1 definitely worth the extra money. As far as the stock cans, with the discs and baffles out they do sound very good, and the volume is excellent as well. I just don’t like the look as much as the SC1.
Well done Frog - glad that you've found it helpful...although maybe Covid-19 Lockdown has warped your sense of 'interesting' I used to have an index in the first post so you could jump to the key bits of info, but the hyperlink references kept changing (as if posts were being deleted). I don't remember anyone posting something that they'd later want to disown. Looking forward to doing something other than cleaning!
I'm getting mine on next Tuesday, can't wait ! I've read this whole thread and found plenty useful information, thanks ! Had one question, for those who've drilled out the stock Arrow cans, was there a loss of power ?
Welcome to the forum (Safe) Santos and congratulations on getting your bike - I bet you can't wait No difference in power at all with discs removed, although I left my baffles in (before I switched the exhaust to the AR). We'll have to wait and see what others think, but I doubt that you would notice any perceivable difference either positive or negative. Stay safe
Ok, I’ve had two bikes so I’ve been able to try the cans with just the discs out and with just the baffles out. With just the discs out there is almost no audible difference and no power change. With just the baffles out there is a massive improvement in sound with no improvement in performance. With both removed it might have a very slight improvement in sound over only the baffles removed, but performance at very high rpm’s seems slightly more free flowing and felt like there was a small performance gain. My brother had pointed that out to me after he rode it and before I even mentioned it to him. So, if you’re going to remove only the discs you’re wasting your time, just leave it stock. However, if you want it to sound “much” deeper and a good amount louder, then you should remove the baffles. If you are fortunate enough to be able to enjoy full throttle redline shifts, then remove the discs as well. Enjoy.
I appreciate your input on that. I'm from Switzerland so I guess I'll forget the redline shifts However I'll do like you said, and get those baffles out. Thanks
Have a look at how I remove the baffles. I did a much easier removal process than most on here. I left the end caps on and used small cutting discs on a dremel to cut the weld off the end of the baffle. I just slide a pice of tin between the baffle and the carbon end cap where I was cutting, as to protect the end cap. I think I used about 12 cutting discs for both mufflers.
Looks great. Is it just 3 bolts that hold the oberon cap in place? The OEM Triumph one uses 4 bolts but one is under the hinged cap and dont believe that is used in the aftermarket Oberon one. Weirdly the outer 3 bolts on the OEM are not spaced equally at 120 degrees from each other
I have just the photo for you Another OCD nightmare...but thankfully you can't tell when they're all done up
I've never heard of the South Sandwich Islands @BladeRR8 - so I clicked the link to see where you were
Yes I did. I went to Hilltop who have since been roasted by the internet, with accusations to say that the power graphs are manipulated (by easing off the throttle on the 'before' run) and that the invisible, undetectable firmware is actually not there at all. We took two bikes there - my RS and my son's MT-10 and they have both turned out to be absolutely fantastic. In my case, the loss of low end torque was cured, and she runs smooth and strong throughout the rev range. The MT-10 (which also has an AR system and a decat) used to stink of fuel - and now it doesn't. I can't explain it. Is it real? Is it fake? Whatever it is, it works fine for me.
Thanks for the post. Personally I cant make my mind up about Hilltop. One thing i struggle with is the claim the manufacturer cannot detect the Hilltop changes / software. Surely the person who made the ECU and programmed it can interrogate it fully and no space is hidden. Did you get before and after dyno results?