hi. well done. nice write up and great pictures. have a 2018 speed but the s model so no arrows but very interesting to see what you have done. how can it produce 148 bhp with 2 x 5mm restrictors in ??
Thanks for your comments - it's hard to describe, but the inner pipe you're looking at (capped by the disc with its centre hole) also has similar sized perforations along the length of the tube to vent the exhaust gasses. In other words, the single 5mm hole doesn't handle the entire flow. All the same - I agree it seems nuts. Perhaps I've undone all the hard work that the Triumph and Arrow engineers put into this exhaust. It appears to run the same - so (brace for a bad pun) I'm baffled about what it actually does Nice to hear from an S owner!
was just looking at the photos again and was wondering if what you said was how it was done.its hard to get an idea of the depth just viewed from the end. i guess by making the gasses have to turn it slows them down. the cans on the s are like earlier standard cans with the pipe from the inlet side pointing up in to the can and then the outlet pipe not being joined to the inlet and is pointed down so the gasses have to "slalom" to find their way out.
Yep...design aside, it's the same principle - gasses build up pressure in the chamber and then escape, regardless of how direct the route out might be. For the RS, the end of the tube with the restrictor disc is about 12cm back from the inlet - hence the added complication of trying to find a drill bit that reaches in that far. 175 miles to go, and then I'll start using all the revs
Good effort. Looking forwards to your opinion on any changes the mod has made once you have had time to reflect. Im at about the same mileage and can't make my mind up if the Speed RS needs her sound playing with. Your mod is going to help a lot of riders I'm sure.
Thanks for the update. It defo is a little quiet with the arrows as standard. Sounds fine on the bike but at idle is just a little quiet. I will follow you and leave baffles/dB killers in but open out the restrictor disc. Cheers for the update.
It doesn't make a huge difference to the sound (after all that faffing about) but it's enough to retain the original character with 'extra bass'. The step drill was a pig as it worked towards the last three stages - you need a really torquey power drill to keep it rotating at not too fast a speed and prevent overheating. I used cutting paste too. I'm not a drilling expert (at all). Never one for leaving things half done, I'm wondering whether to try a hole cutter (I reckon 41mm or 43 mm) to cut the remainder of the disc out, almost flush with the pipe. Edit: I've ordered a hole cutter suitable for stainless steel, together with an arbour and a shaft extension. The arbour has a pilot drill, which would have located nicely in the 'pre-drilled' 5mm hole that Arrow thoughtfully provide. I'll post up details of how this works, but hopefully, it's a single solution to getting the disc out quickly and in one go.
Subscribed to this thread - just a wonderful resource of information. Just got my Speed Triple RS so this thread in particular has been a fountain of ideas and inspiration - thanks for sharing!!!
Welcome, and congratulations on getting your own RS! There's plenty of other information across this forum, but topics come and go quite quickly. I wanted to try and maintain an 'ownership thread' that would be longer lasting...even if maybe it's just too much to sift through from the beginning. Maybe it's rambling on a bit, but I'm glad you've found some info on here useful - I'll keep on sharing! Next instalment will be about whether the Starrett hole cutter represents a one-stop solution for quickly getting the restrictor discs out of those Arrow cans, with the minimum of effort.
Success. This is the solution to getting the discs out in one shot, with the minimum of agro - a 41mm hole cutter. If I'd done this in the first place, the pilot drill would have located nicely in the existing 5mm hole and the disc would have come out in one piece. The cutter made mincemeat of the disc and there's hardly a scuff on the teeth - it's a quality bit of kit (unlike the pesky step drill!). I used cutting paste to keep it cool. So with this method, you can go from this: To this...in a single go: I did try a 43mm cutter, but with no pilot hole, I couldn't centre it accurately and there was a danger that it would start to cut into the side of the tube...so I played it safe. The low rumble has improved further (remembering that the hole is now 41mm instead of 32mm). I didn't think it would make much of a difference, but it's another significant step - she sounds really good at idle. So that's the end of this chapter - job done
I've tried my best, but the recording lacks the depth of sound. It also depends whether you've got good bass on your computer speakers - see what you think: Click HERE to view on Dropbox
The idle rumble sounds deeper for sure. Is it me, or is the triple ”whine” louder? Also, is that carbon tail piece stock in the UK or is did you ad it? Where can I find one?
It's definitely deeper - and it doesn't stop the feisty rasp or induction roar from coming through. I don't think the whine has changed - and the sound clip is taken from a completely cold start, so that might make a difference. The carbon tail is an aftermarket addition - transferred from my previous 2016 R. It's from CarbonFBR in the UK. Jacques is very accommodating and I'm sure he will quote a shipping cost if you drop him an email. http://www.carbonfbr.com/store/prod...ed-triple-2016-tail-light-surround-in-plain-1 I'd have preferred the twill weave, but the plain weave matches the stock carbon parts (but not the exhaust tips).
895 miles and a couple of jobs needed doing. The coolant had dropped below minimum. There are no leaks and I'm surprised to have to top it up so early...perhaps it's the hot weather? I've also adjusted the chain slack (don't even think about trying to use the two-piece C-Spanner in the toolkit...you need something like this). And this happened. There's no air leaking, so I think I had a narrow escape, with the screw embedded in the outer layer of rubber. My choice is to ignore it, or have it drilled out and plugged. To be honest, I don't like either of those options...but leaving it alone is probably best
110 miles today and finally reached 1005, so fully run in (at last!). Running In Mode has gone from the menu and it now appears as Default instead. This is not the most exciting thing that has ever happened, but I had been wondering what it would do. Next job - try out maximum revs
