Ok, but then how does engine know clutch is engaged when starting? I take it there is some kind of sensor somewhere else? I noticed when I released the clutch cable from crank casing that some fluid ran out of the cable sleeve. I secured the cable end up while doing the work.
Batteries can die suddenly and unpredictably and still throw out enough amps to illuminate a few bulbs but insufficient grunt to spin an engine.
No sensor as such. If you are in gear the neutral switch acts as an ignition lock out unless the clutch is pulled in.
The meter won’t help......the battery needs load testing - an electrical load to check amperage not mere volts. Got a car and some spare domestic flex (in the absence of jump leads)? Strip and nip the cable in the clamps and fire up the bike....... (or not!). Ignore earth core.
Thank you all. Sounds like even if I cocked up somewhere as long as neutral light is on, the bike should start. I will test / replace battery and let you know Thank you so much. Wonderful you took the time to proved much needed resource for a “better late than never “ budding wrencher
Im not sure of your model Most of these bikes have a cut off at the Clutch lever on the handle bar, also a cut off normally behind the pivot of the side stand switch these will stop your bike from starting under certain conditions. Put up the side stand and pull the clutch lever when starting. If there is a problem with either then you can eliminate one at a time. In the clutch housing the is a crank position sensor, the ones Ive seen are over on the right side of the housing this reads the crank to establise where the ignition is in order to start the bike.
As long as the car is not running you are in no danger of receiving more from its charging circuit than your tender bike electrics can take. The battery alone delivers a safe output.
Hi again So after all the help yesterday I put jump cables from my Ford Ranger pickup on to the bikes battery and still just clicks when I hit starter. Checked side stand and clutch lever sensors. They move freely no problem. Friend who is electrical engineer tested both relays and reckons they are fine. I’m really stumped All help appreciated
Hey Sprinter. Thank you. None of had the bottle to try that lol. Can the solenoid be fine one day and knackered the next? Never had trouble starting on first push before Cheers
Have you actually tried to charge the battery yet? If the charge is too low ( but battery not goosed ) it can act as a resistor ( the battery that is) So if you’ve not charged it yet get it on a charger / optimiser overnight. Remove the battery from the bike and charge it that way.
Gary. Yep have trickle charger maintenance unit. Says it’s fine. Think I will use A screwdriver across solenoid tm first and get new battery if required. I still think it’s something else but everyone seems convinced here. Happy to be proved wrong though. Cheers
