Anyone figured out a good way to lube the chain on the Thruxton? You get access to about six inches in front of the rear sprocket but you're spraying from the side which isn't ideal for getting the lube where it needs to be. I also tried poking the straw down the little gap in front of the exhaust so you can get a good angle and then sprayed as I spun the wheel. That seemed to give better coverage. Still wasn't really happy with the results - not particularly even coverage and some dribbling of excess lube. Of course, in either of those two locations you have to put some cardboard or something behind the chain to avoid the over-spray going all over the wheel and tyre. It's a bit of a bloody faff and that's without mentioning the drama of getting the bike up on the stand! Perhaps I'm expecting too much - all my bikes have had Scott Oilers for the past 20 years and they just drop the ideal amount of the ideal lube (engine oil) in the ideal place. Still, any helpful tips and tricks much appreciated!!! I've seen some gadgets that snap onto the chain and apply the lube in an enclosed pace - like this: https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/artike...evice/10003114?filter_article_number=10003114 That kinda thing actually any good? Might just give it whirl for the sake of £13!!
Why gear oil, Ron? How's it different to engine oil? I've always used engine oil in my Scott Oiler but maybe I've missed a trick? I'm currently using MuckOff Dry Chain Lube - for bikes that don't get used in the wet much. I can't say it *looks* like it's doing a great job though, not compared to my Fazer chain that gets a constant feed from the Scott Oiler.
Routine, every 2 fuel ups. After a run, bike up on paddock stand, cardboard behind the sprocket, ChainWax with straw on rollers, spin the wheel till all lubed. Takes about 20 mins. When chain starts to look dirty, say, 1k miles, one of those 3 sides chain brushes. Spay on wd40, clean with brush, run with rag and back to regular lube. No that hard.
Gear oil applied with small brush after a ride - don't use spray on stuff anymore Seems a bit of a faff to do what a paraffin soaked rag can do in a few seconds
EP80/90 is thicker and less runny than standard engine oil so less fling. The thing to remember, unless running an old chain with no o rings, is that you are protecting the the outside of the chain rather than lubricating its internals.....with the exception of where the rollers mesh with the sprockets. They all collect and distribute filth to slightly different degrees!
Excellent vid, Sprinter. And Happy Days - it turns out, more by luck than judgement, that I've got it right already - The Fazer has the ScottOiler applying engine oil constantly (I suspect gear oil would be too thick for it to dispense but maybe I'll give that a go... one day... maybe). And on the Thruxton which I don't use in the wet, I'm using MuckOff Dry which is the best if you're not bothered about rust protection... which I'm not... coz it don't get wet. Think I'll try using a brush just to even out the coverage though.
I put the bike on the paddock stand, get an old bit of rag under the chain just in front of the rear sprocket, get someone to spin the wheel up wards while you spray the lube on the top of the chain just in front of the rear sprocket until the wet bit comes back then stop. I use Castrol chain wax but I think most of the lubes are pretty good, I lube it about every 500 miles
I stumbled on this little gem a couple years ago and wish I'd have thought of it first. So simple and worth every cent. https://www.greaseninja.com/
Gear oil convert here. It's not so much the EP bit but the 80/90 bit, roughly translated as thick and chewy. Once its soaked in, it stays in. Works a treat.
I have a Scottoiler on the old Trophy and use chainsaw oil in it, usually clean a lot of gunk out from the front sprocket area when the chain and sprockets need renewing (30,000 miles approx) I am now trying a Lubeman unit on the latest Trophy with the recommended engine oil, just press the "tit" for a few seconds before setting off, looks good so far (500 miles or so) and a good deal cheaper than the Scottoiler.
