Thanks, Tony! I'm currently waiting on a KlockWerks Flare 8" windshield and Custom Dynamics LED lighting. I also have some parts "waiting in the wings" for those two things to arrive and will then have everything installed that hasn't already been. I bought Harley's "Dominion Collection" grips, pegs, gas cap, etc. and then a few purely cosmetic bits like black saddlebag latches to replace the silver ones. Why they put chrome or silver parts like that on a totally blacked out bike is one of God's own mysteries.
I bought heating jackets for my wife and me last week. But not the really expensive ones from bike dealers. I took the opportunity at A.... and got them for about € 60.- with a 10.000 mAh accupack. This week I was able to test it in a temperature range down to -2 degree Celsius. It worked very good and I used only the second of three heating levels which was quite enough.
P I've got a heated gilet similar to your jacket off Amazon for under £30 last year. It's got a silver lining and if I'm playing golf I don't even need the power switched on. I tried the 10,000 Mah pack but prefer 2 x 5,000 instead as the 10,000 is heavier and with a 5,000 in either pocket I don't feel they are there.
Installed a Shorai lithium battery, installed a radiator guard, and bought an Aerostich Roadcrafter jacket. Also installed a Kaoko throttle lock about a week ago. The Speedy is ready for some light sport touring now!
A set of Craig bars arrived last week from Motone. Well their Black Friday discount was an offer I failed to refuse. I like the look of them, they have a more subtle profile than Triumph's accessory Dresser Bars that I currently have fitted. Not that I intend to find out how effective they are; but the straight, unbraced tabs on the Triumph bars that bolt onto the frame, left me wondering whether they wouldn't just fold up if involved in an accident and not really protect anything. The tabs are braced on the Motone bars and the lower bar interlocks by several inches, so it should make them much stronger. However, I was disappointed when I opened the box to discover that Motone have left the top tube openings open where they join the top mounting tabs, all that's going to do is let in the wet, crud and salt if the bike is ridden in our lovely British weather. And it'll just sit there rotting the bars from the inside out, I find that design flaw odd given that Motone are based in Wales, not renowned for its sunny weather, sorry if I've just upset my welsh brothers and sisters. I was beginning to consider returning them when I had an idea. I remembered that the water cooled Bonneville T100/120, Street Twin/Cup frame has plastic bungs in the rear end of the frame tubes under the rear of the seat (My hours wasted in OCD research into the differences and similarities of Triumphs Bonnevilles has paid off). Out with the measuring callipers and guess what, the frame tubes are the same size as the crash bars. I was ordering four new M12 locking nuts from Fowlers to fit the new bars (My OCD self-preservation wont let me reuse locking nuts on something as critical as combined engine and crash bar mounts), so I added two end caps (for a whole £1-48) to the order and they arrived to day and they fit perfectly. I will post photos when I fit them, but I need to get Christmas out of the way first and its freezing in the garage up here in Cheshire. Enjoy your rides if you're in the Southern hemisphere, or the anticipation of more rides in the Spring if, like me, you're in the Northern hemisphere.
Me too, wanted one that is. I love the air version in black with the gold stripes down the arms, but as I already have a leather jacket and a Triumph mesh jacket I can’t really justify it. Your new jacket will suit your bike perfectly. How’s the paint plans coming on?
Water will get into tubework whether you have bungs in the end or not. What you need to do is provide an escape route. A few discreet drain holes of say 3mm diameter, planned now for the lowest point whilst they are off, will provide a better long term solution and easier access before final fitting. Naturally you need to touch in the bare metal with a drop of paint.
It should be possible to get a properly watertight bung in those bar ends. No reason to drill holes that I can see, and they'd just be an unnecessary area of weakness.