Worth just checking when the new tool arrives and that the riveting tool sits nicely in the flared rivet, then you know its good to go mate Good luck and let us know how you get on
Looks like the same tool that's arriving tomorrow, hopefully mine's OK. Really wished I'd got a professional to do it, but when I mentioned about getting the chain and sprockets replaced at the same time as my 20k service, the Triumph dealer didn't seem to enthusiastic, so I didn't push the matter as I was just grateful that I could them to do the big service involving valve clearances and cam timings.
As the guys have already mentioned inspect it and take it easy and all should go well, sealey are a decent company, keep us all informed as you go mate
Its for the early Bonneville derived engines in, Bonneville, America, Speedmaster ect prevention from engine damage to crankcase on startup
Duck, that's a very fair--and serious--question. I've ridden at night with my Transition face shields (Bell and Shoei) multiple times with no issues whatsoever. And I've only ridden with them at night within the city so lots of lights coming at us. The visors don't go dark so fast that oncoming headlights are of concern. I don't know how it would work if you were, say, on the Strip in Las Vegas with tons of lights (both vehicles and signs) all the time, but I suspect even that would be ok from my experience. The first time I rode with my Bell with Transition shield, Mr. Sandi and I rode up to a restaurant about 20 miles to our north. We left home in broad daylight and under a super intense desert sun. After dinner leaving the restaurant it was totally dark and I remember pulling into the garage and realizing that I didn't even think about my face shield. It was if I was riding with a clear shield, which at that point, it was. One of the things I learned through some research is that it is highly recommended to store a helmet with a Transition shield in a dark place i.e., in a cabinet or in a helmet bag or, preferably, both. You basically want the shield to not "transition" more often than is needed. I keep my Bell and Shoei helmets with Transition shields in a cabinet indoors. Here's a good article about "photochromic" face shields. Good luck with your decision! https://billyscrashhelmets.com/about-photochromic-shields/
I don't know if you'd be able to see signs such as these with a transition face shield, Duck, since I avert my eyes when faced with neon such as this.
I found the instructions that came with the tool. It's a wonky poor quality photocopy with 'Tsubaki' at the top. Googling that name seems to indicate they are a big chain manufacturer but no sign they actually make a copy of the DID KM500 tool. And I bet if they did it wouldn't come in a polythene bag with dodgy photocopied instructions with slightly dodgy English translation. The instructions say the tool is for an ∝, CK or CX chain (difficult to say) Squaredeals describes it as 'All sizes DID-SSS-Tsubaki'. Instructions do say the riveter head should touch the side-plate so tried again today putting enough force in to bend the tool sides so it popped apart, no sign of rivet head actually splaying in any way there's still about a half mm between riveter and side plate. The caliper that just got delivered says head is about 5.6mm across, and main rivet width is exactly 5.5mm. Needless to say, I'm planning on removing the link and redoing with a different tool.
Mrs FZR and me rode from Dieppe to Southern Normandy about 175 miles on billiard table smooth roads with virtually no traffic and the sun shone all day.
that’s a lot of fecking about splitting the chain with that tool, once you’ve ground the heads off the link it sometimes pulls out by hand Or a tap with a punch and hammer it’s all it needs, when putting the side plate on if you sit behind the bike you can watch the side plate line up with the plates either side of the one your fitting, also not all links come hollow like the one in the video some are solid.
I have a question regarding the recent posts about fitting a chain. Why do some come with a master link and some need riveting? Do our Triumphs require one specifically, or is it more the chain manufacturer?
Day four of sprocket and chain fit... The Sealey chain breaker/riveter arrived yesterday evening so today after grinding off the heads off last rivet attempt I used it to push out the pins. That made mincemeat out of the tool pin... Even with the rivet head ground off there was still a hole in the centre of the pin, together with the fact the tool tip is more than a mm smaller than the rivet pin meant all the force was on a smaller area and the tool tip got pancaked. Next was to push the new side plate onto the new link. That took about 15 minutes, because as soon as you turn the screw, the anvil head also twisted out of alignment and I had to keep backing it off and adjusting it. Finally the riveting. The YouTube video showing how to use the tool has the guy using a the small T-bar that comes with the tool. My rivets were made of sterner stuff and need a half meter breaker bar and an old fork stanchion... I know that looks like overkill but I needed those bars to get to the point where my digital callipers said the rivet head was wider that where it goes through the side plate (head end tapers so it stated out 0.1mm less). I also found that with the tool parts having some slack, the forming head was slipping sideways so ended swapping the tool to the inside of the chain to get the rivet mushroomed vaguely symmetric. At no point in all this did the flange on the rivet forming head actually look like it was going to sit flush to the rivet as the instruction videos said was the point to stop. After all that, the forming head was also mincemeat.. But at last I now have the thing riveted and nice shiny new chain and sprockets ready for a test ride tomorrow...
Ordered it yesterday from Italy, received it today. DHL Express really is what they say it is.. No more shaking brakes.
I bet he has seen one of these DD https://www.ronniesunshines.com/air-rifles/co2-air-rifles/umarex-thompson-m1a1-black/
Took bike out for a test ride today to check the new chain and sprockets. Took it easy for the first hour, checking the chain a couple of times; it looked fine. So as I was getting very warm from all the sunshine I turned up the air conditioning for the second hour Bike ran great, it was smooth and straight as a die when removing grip from handlebars and in the twisties steered true and assuredly with the nearly new tyres As a bonus, I now know that the 'thrumming' noise and feeling with a period of about a second when cruising at constant speed around 50mph was nothing to do with drivetrain or tyres, because it's still there with all new parts. I reckon it's just the ECU very slightly changing the throttle about the point it is aiming for.
