Fuel injectors open when powered up. So jury rig a connection and access to a battery and fuel pump, hook up a fuel line to the pump , put something inert and none corrosive in a "tank" put injector into top of tank , switch fuel pump on , no leaks, then briefly trigger injector. Should get a good neat spray , anything else and it'll probably need more cleaning. You can back flush , put rubber tubing over exit/nozzle and pump in reverse , most injectors have filter built into them , a very basic strainer.
a bit heath robinson setup but only one of the four injectors function when connected to a can of carb cleaner and a 12 volt battery. i am waiting on the used replacements i bought from ebay CA. when they arrive i will check them in he same manner.
first time running in at least ten years. fresh fuel rail and injectors and it started on the second try with a bit of throttle. still missing the purge valve and canister. will probably need balancing etc but chuffed thanks to all for the help and advice cheers mark
that was a vid but it wont play , my bad i would guess. spent an hour trying to bleed the rear brake . no pedal at all . then i noticed i hadnt replaced the pin linking the pedal to the actuator. DOOHHH. pin in and surprize nice firm rear brake. need a rebuild kit for the front master any recommendations ? cheers mark
The tank had rotted out and all the crap had found its way through to the injectors and then sat for over 10 years ..but running again now Need a new chain and sprockets and will be able to test ride up the street
Bike starts up no prob with a touch of throttle but won’t idle . If I adjust the throttle cable to keep it running in hunts ..I am suspecting the idle air fuel stepper motor ..also is there a colored in version of the wire if diagram to be found ? Thanks in advance Mark
well i decided to change out the chain and sprockets but i cant undo the front sprocket. i have even tried an impact wrench to no avail. next i put a broom handle through the rear wheel and still cant shift it. its not a left hand thread or some thing like that is it. i have bent the tab washer out of the way. any help is much appreciated mark
well with a bit of longer pipe on the breaker bar it gave up. ya new chain and sprockets are now on. test ride down the road reveals the speedo is not working battery is fully charged and i even swapped out the regulator/rectifier as i had a spare. no change the wire that comes from the front wheel is plugged in . also it idles at around 2K ,how do i reduce that. any help is as always appreciated. cheers mark
Also how does the speedo work from the front wheel as mine is not reading properly.only shows 2 to 3 mph while i must be going at least 30/40 mph. tried different dash with no change. any help is appreciated . cheers mark
thanks for the advice . i have read that there was an issue with drive sleeve that failed and there are replacements available made from ali. i will have it apart and check it out. thanks again ps i replaced the idle air valve and the idle is now down to amore respectable rpm but struggles to maintain idle when cold . i think i will update the fuel map next. mark
well i got the tuneecu cable and downloaded the free software,prety easy. uploaded the latest map and now it rides much better but idles at about 900 rpm which is too low.i suspect the air idle valve or the air pipes . so will restart it and squirt a bit of starter fluid in that general area and see if it changes the rpm. the fight continues cheers mark
No I looked for the adaptation reset but could not find it even watched a u tube of the same thing but I don’t have the button on the drop down menu
i wait ed for the TPS light in the bottom left corner to go green but it never did. maybe that has something to do with it. going to let it cool right off as the fan never came on either (previously tested the fan and it works when you put 12 volts to it also fuse is good).
Edit: routine maintenance revealed chain and sprockets had been very recently changed and the gearing lowered (14/45) for acceleration. I replaced both sprockets for 15/42 and it’s now much better, it’s a little taller than standard (14/42) but it’s made the bike much nicer to ride. Also found the front sprocket was less than finger right, not good as it made gear changes really clunky and loud. Now it’s properly torqued up, it’s much better.
you were correct the magnetic ring was in 4 bits. so i got the ali with magnet inserts replacement and put it back together and initial test shows it working. thanks for the tip. cheers mark
