Ok what's the zero like ? Is it 0.0 with the probes touched together ? If so that's out of range and needs replacing
Yes I would say so as 0.001on the 2k scale is a 1 ohm reading with the probes connected and does not substantially affect the readings taken
New sensor should arrive today from Sprint (very good service) - do you measure the clearance from any particular point? Then it's finger's crossed...
You should be able to use any one of the high points on the rotor to set the gap, but its a good idea to quickly check them all. Make sure you get the fixing bolts tight as it makes a mess if the sensor moves when its running.
Well - new crank sensor fitted, and bike is exactly the same Runs for 30 mins then dies like she's run out of fuel. Funny thing is - won't start again, but will fire a bit if given the choke? I'm lost
This bike is carburettor model, I'd check for blockage in fuel cap and fuel lines ! As bike will run whilst the float bowls have enough fuel , but once levels drop enough the fuel won't be picked up through the Jets and of course the motor will stop. It will only restart once enough fuel has bled down into float bowls, fuel cap vent is good place to start, then ImI afraid it's tank of and check all fuel lines and internal fuel filter on the fuel tap ! Also check Vacuum lines to fuel tap !!
I've had the fuel tap out and checked the filter etc. Runs for half an hour - until it gets properly hot. You can leave it half an hour and still won't run again, until it's right back to cold, then cycle starts again.
I've had the fuel tap out and checked the filter etc. Runs for half an hour - until it gets properly hot. You can leave it half an hour and still won't run again, until it's right back to cold, then cycle starts again.
Sounds like might be coils Sounds like coils maybe ? My bike had one coil breakdown after I did engine up, put big bore kit with higher compression pistons in, coil's didn't produce a strong enough spark to make the fuel burn and so one coil died and the other struggled along, a 270° twin sounds strange on one cylinder ¥¢€ I can tell you !! The coil would come good once it was fully cooled down then when it got hot in 10 or 15 minutes of riding it would "die" until stopped for an hour and round it goes again { }
When running the bike now and it stops at 30 mins, you say that putting on the choke will make it fire ? Have you tried :- Opening the fuel cap ? Putting the fuel tap onto prime ( maybe pushing inwards on the tap too ) ? Have you checked the fuel filters in the "T" pieces between the carbs ? Whilst the carbs are out, clean out all the jets and check the idle screws, about 2 turns out is a good starting point, and modding the airbox is a good idea too, as below
The fact that it will run for thirty mins until hot kind of precludes any carb problems, it could possible be fuel supply like a pipe that gradually collapsing with vacuum, but i would also expect the engine to respond to this by getting a bit faster any time its on idle due to weakness of the mixture related, to me i would be looking at the coils or the electronic ignition amplifier as it seems so heat related.
Primary side of coils 0.63 ohms +/- 10% Secondary side of coils 10.5 k ohms +/- 10% Check both readings when hot & cold, and secondary is tested to one of the primary tappings
When you say it stops after 30 mins running, how does it stop ? does it stop dead ? Does it die out like fuel starvation ? or does it sound like its running on two cylinders ? When you say it tries to start if you put the choke on, does it try on all 3 cylinders ?
After half an hour, bike sounds like it's running out of fuel for around five seconds, then dies. If you try to restart doesn't try to fire, but tries to start off choke - will run on two (just about..) but dies if you take it off choke. I'm confused lol