Hi - got an L reg 750 Trident, which conked out last time out. Seemed like fuel starvation? Lost power, then stopped. Now running again but the red warning light with the exclamation mark is lit? Just wondered what this might point to as I don't have a manual. Guess it's electrical as it runs carbs? Thanks, Rich.
I guess you have checked basics like oil / water levels before you restarted and did it run out of fuel when it conked out?
The light you have on is to say the sidestand is in the down position ......... unless the switch has failed or been disconnected.
Side stand switch malfunction (as already suggested)? Shite (technical term!) in the carbs? If it stops when hot but restarts after it has cooled down then it is symptomatic of cps (crank position sensor) failure. Just a couple of things to amuse yourself with over the next few days!!
Thanks for the pointers. Looked at the side stand switch, and it was sticking, and also the wires are breaking down (brown wire insulation cracking and green wire broke). Wil probably take the switch off and bridge the wires if that won't cause any problems? Also, wanted to change the spark plugs, but the plug recess on the right cylinder had a fair bit of engine oil in it. Could this be the rocker cover gasket or would it be the head gasket leaking? Also - my plug sockets wouldn't get to the plugs - do I just need a very thin walled box type plug spanner?
I would cut and join the wires as appropriate on the sw3itch side of the sidestand switch plug to make up a shorting plug so you can just plug in a replacement switch at a later date if you wanted to. I would guess the oil is from the doughnut seal around the plug hole under the rocker cover. order the parts before you take this bit apart in case the seal falls apart when you remove it. Have a careful look down the plug hole as I have seen the plug located off center in the hole and you will need the correct Triumph plug socket and allen key to get to the plug. You may still have to file the corners of the plug spanner to get it to fit and go round, Don't ask How I know .
Thanks for that - thought it might just be clearance around the outside of the box spanner. Not much room! Are the doughnut seals under he rocker cover? Guess there's a gasket to replace too?
If it's not leaking now you should be able to refit the outer gasket without any problems just make sure to add a little sealer around the half moons when you refit them or they will leak .....
Well - taken the sidestand switch off and bypassed it - wires were breaking down (connect the blue and brown wires). Still trying to gets the damn plugs out - is it a 5/8" plug spanner? Got an old box spanner and taken the outside corners off to reduce the outside diameter but still won't get onto the hexagon
When you do the rocker box seal check the valve clearances whilst youre in there, Inlet 0.1 - 0.15 mm Exhaust 0.15 - 0.2 mm I would also order a new cam chain tensioner spring from sprint manufacturing all the originals seem to be a bit short on checking https://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/product.php/5733499/ Apologies too, rocker gasket is all one piece with the plug hole gaskets
Latest - I've removed the sidestand switch and bypassed it. the gaiter on the plunder had gone rotten, and the plunger was rusted and sticking. Wiring had perished too. Still the same problem - runs sweet as a nut for 20-25 minutes, then acts like it's run out of petrol - runs dog rough for 5 seconds then dies and won't start. Won't start again until it's stone cold. Whereabouts is the crank sensor, and can it be checked? Many thanks.
Those exact symptoms are the crankshaft sensor failure mode, replacement sensor about £ 50 from https://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/product.php/5732908/ including gasket a reasonably straight forward repair.
Sensor should read 530 ohm +/- 10% but breaks down under load / temp and recovers when cold until eventual failure. RHS engine cover near exhaust, will need gap setting between 0.7 & 1mm ( updated figures from triumph was 0.6 - 0.8mm ) from rotor, put a bit of sealer round the grommet when you fit the sensor where it exits the crankcase plug it in refit the cover with new gasket and done
Trying to test the crank sensor - is this the right setting on the mulrimeter? Only usually use it for continuity and voltage tests Should I get the bike hot and test again? (fetched the cover off now...) Thanks.
Set the meter to an appropriate Ohms range ( 1k ? ) and touch the probes together, you should get a 0.0 reading, if not and there is no calibration on the meter you need to subtract the reading from any measured reading you may get when testing & taking resistance readings. You're looking for a reading between 483 ohms & 583 ohms, the closer the readings are to the middle @ 530 the better as the readings change with age.
