tiger 800 xc 2010. well shes doen it again, she started and ran for a short while this morning then stopped. went to re start, however this time no ignition display lights at all, headlight on sidelight only, she then goes to normal dip lights, rev counter spins up anddash lights flicker for a second, lights stay on. indicator horn and headlights all work, no fuel pump sound. I have checked fuses, all ok, given fuel pump a tap and still no go. battery fully charged. ignition? do they have trouble with this ?
Hi thanks for reply. That thread was me a few weeks ago, not the same problem now though. No dash lights when ignition on and initially no head light just side light, the randomly headlight comes on but still no dash display??
Yes I was just putting everything relevant into one thread. Do you have a multimeter to check battery voltage.The difference between fully charged and not enough juice to turn her over is not a lot. Im not sure you got to the bottom of your previous non starting If the fuel pump needed a spray of wd40 then there could be corrosion or a loose conection issue. Are you riding regularly? Is this the new battery? Is it on a tricle charger? Car chargers can fry bike batteries Your battery can read fully charged, and still be goosed,a sign of this is, only one turn over when starting then nothing. Most(?) new batteries need 12 hours on charge before use. Is your shed/garage damp? Is the bike outside? How long between starts? Can you connect an other battery? A dead battery will stop an engine.
Starting System Symptoms: Weak battery symptoms: -- Slow cranking. -- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed. -- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking. Repair: -- Charge/Test/Replace battery. Failure Modes: -- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting. -- Won't hold a charge. -- Low voltage/cell failure. Preventative Maintenance: -- Check fluid levels regularly -- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger. Ignition Coil failure symptoms: -- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking. -- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning. -- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles Repair: -- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils. Failure Mode: -- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark. Preventative Maintenance: -- None Testing: Pickup Coil failure symptoms: -- No spark at all -- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool. -- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss. Repair: -- Replace pickup coil Failure mode: -- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period. Preventative Maintenance: -- None. Get a spare. Testing: -- Ohms checks hot and cold. Worn starter symptoms: -- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear. -- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound. -- Click from under seat but no cranking. Failure Mode: -- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage. -- Bearing failure related to brush wear. Repair: -- Rebuild or replace. Preventative Maintenance: -- Maintan battery in peak condition. -- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in. -- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again. Worn sprag clutch symptoms: -- Very loud rattling when cranking -- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn Falure Mode: -- Breakage Repair: -- Replace sprag clutch Preventative Maintenance: -- Maintain battery in peak condition. -- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in. Worn starter solenoid: -- Click from under seat but no cranking. -- Won't crank after rocking bike. -- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected. Failure mode: -- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction. -- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut. -- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement. Preventative Maintenance: -- None. Repair: -- Replace starter solenoid. Testing: -- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoidcontacts. ------------------
Hi, She is used on a regular basis but the last couple of weeks have not allowed that with the weather. Battery on trickle charger. She is kept in dry garage although it does get cold, new battery tail end of Jan and fully charged, she has been running since. Says 13.7 volts on optimiser but notice only .22 amps. Could the amps be an issue? Battery now in house on charge in warmth to see if that helps. Also going to check solenoid fuse when I get a chance.
I am not familiar with the Optimiser display. 13.7v sounds high for output but is the .22amps charging INPUT? With such a new battery and problems coinciding I would whip it down to a local garage and get it load tested. You might have a duff battery and guarantee follow up.
Thanks, I will get that done later this week as Work unfortunately going to get in the way for a few days never a good thing
Checked main fuse, all ok, cleaned connections and no luck. Will look at getting battery tested and go from there. Thinking ignition? Tried spare key just in case but just the same result. Just no power to dash and headlights not working. I have even spoken to her and apologised for looking at new bikes and going to the launch in Newcastle triumph but she still doesn’t want to work for me
Spug have a look at the following link there may be a few pointers to your problem. Also I believe that if there’s a problem with the Tiger 800 headlight bulb she won’t start. I wonder if poor headlight connections could be included in failure to start. https://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php/topic,18415.0.html
Well I have finally had a good morning and time to look at bike, me solenoid fitted but still didn't work. Went into switches and followed back looking for breaks, nothing found. However ignition block proved to be the issue. The top block from the ignition barrel hidden up in frame must have been collecting water, as one of the cables is so corroded all the copper inside has turned to green powder. Would like to think I could get enough cable to repair but looks like it's corroded close to top of the block, looking at the block I don't think I could get the pin out to attach new cable☹️☹️ Think it may end up being new ignition set up
Well I have finally had a good morning and time to look at bike, me solenoid fitted but still didn't work. Went into switches and followed back looking for breaks, nothing found. However ignition block proved to be the issue. The top block from the ignition barrel hidden up in frame must have been collecting water, as one of the cables is so corroded all the copper inside has turned to green powder. Would like to think I could get enough cable to repair but looks like it's corroded close to top of the block, looking at the block I don't think I could get the pin out to attach new cable☹️☹️ Think it may end up being new ignition set up
Most of those contacts look pretty green so as well as the repair I would be getting plenty of "Contact spray" on them to clean and protect the contacts.
