"So new solenoid, new relay. The bike had started off the button once after I fitted the solenoid as a check" So after initial prob your replaced the solenoid and relay and it started once? Problem = bike not starting. Changed Solenoid + Relay Started Blanked Alarm 1+2 Not starting Shorted across Solenoid and starter Started Checked Clutch and Side-stand Switches. OK? Relay clicks Fuel Pump Primes ??? Smoking horn (found to be Blanking Alarm 5 +3) WTF when did you blank 5+3? Do lights work? Tried shorting again =nothing Found thick wire going to thin wires fused. ( because it goes to thin I think its a bodge aux install is that it in photo? Anything to add here? Checked battery and used other battery all good it seems.Have you checked fuses carefully and swapped where possible ? Checked at ignition for fuse Please copy and paste this and add subtract anything I missed. Then we have an accessible record of problems and thing you tried, please put everything down Answer any question marks. Perhaps some could answer this ...Shouldnt you have 12volts at the fuel pump?
Cheers again Sprinter. I have the tank off at the mo so no whir but a deffinate click. I would have thought there would be voltage at the pump connector though? Surely the pump would prime (hence the whir) at ignition?
So new solenoid, new relay. The bike had started off the button once after I fitted the solenoid as a check" So after initial prob your replaced the solenoid and relay and it started once? Yes. I then fitted the alarm blank and also did an ecu map change. = bike not starting. Changed Solenoid + Relay Started Blanked Alarm 1+2 Not starting Shorted across Solenoid and starter Started Checked Clutch and Side-stand Switches. OK? Yes both switching ok Relay clicks - yes Fuel Pump Primes ??? - with the tank still on I'm sure it was priming fine. Smoking horn (found to be Blanking Alarm 5 +3) WTF when did you blank 5+3? Do lights work? - the plug came with 5 and 3 bridged As Well as 1 and 2. I only realised later when I was cleaning all the bar switches. Didnt have wiring diagram at that point. Lights work fine and go out with start button push. Tried shorting again =nothing Found thick wire going to thin wires fused. ( because it goes to thin I think its a bodge aux install is that it in photo? - yes. Anything to add here? I don't understand this mod. It can't help current/voltage. Maybe the original wiring at the fuse box was u/s? Checked battery and used other battery all good it seems.Have you checked fuses carefully and swapped where possible ? - all fuses checked Checked at ignition for fuse - sorry but don't understand this one So I'm losing a volt at ignition on and another volt to the start button. Does anybody know of any other bikes that do this or have done this?
So new solenoid, new relay. The bike had started off the button once after I fitted the solenoid as a check".................. Fuses and connections So after initial prob your replaced the solenoid and relay and it started once? Yes. I then fitted the alarm blank and also did an ecu map change. = bike not starting. Changed Solenoid + Relay Started Blanked Alarm 1+2 Not starting Shorted across Solenoid and starter Started Checked Clutch and Side-stand Switches. OK? Yes both switching ok Relay clicks - yes Fuel Pump Primes ??? - with the tank still on I'm sure it was priming fine. Smoking horn (found to be Blanking Alarm 5 +3) WTF when did you blank 5+3? Do lights work? - the plug came with 5 and 3 bridged As Well as 1 and 2. I only realised later when I was cleaning all the bar switches. Didnt have wiring diagram at that point. Lights work fine and go out with start button push. Tried shorting again =nothing Found thick wire going to thin wires fused. ( because it goes to thin I think its a bodge aux install is that it in photo? - yes. Anything to add here? I don't understand this mod. It can't help current/voltage. Maybe the original wiring at the fuse box was u/s? Checked battery and used other battery all good it seems.Have you checked fuses carefully and swapped where possible ? - all fuses checked Checked at ignition for fuse - sorry but don't understand this one............some bikes have a fuse in the loom or built into the ignition check diagrams So I'm losing a volt at ignition on and another volt to the start button. Does anybody know of any other bikes that do this or have done this? You seem to have an erratic problem that comes and goes so makes me think something is loose, check fuses by swapping them out if you can they may look ok but not work........... I would take it back to the condition it was in when it last started................To be honest thats about me done, as I said grunt work. Private message CAPT he knows what he is talking about, to name one
Sprinter if you drank in my local you wouldnt have to buy a beer for months. I can't thank you enough for all the effort you have put in to a complete strangers problems. I'll get there eventually.
So.... Turns out my brand new start solenoid that worked when I fitted it is fooked!! Used one fitted and bike now turns over off the button. Still seems a little slow though. Apparently Triumphs have low quality start system cables and connectors which degrade over time so will be sorting new ones. Next to get the bike back together and see if she starts and runs. Sometime this week hopefully...
Good advice Sprinter cheers. Got the tank back on today and all connected up but it wouldn't fire. Still turning over slow. For some reason with 14.4v going direct to th bike cables the power relay went wobbly. It vibrated and the panel lights flickered. With the jump connected to the bike battery it would turn over but only got 13.4v across the battery?? I hate electrics......
So I thought everyone deserved a sign off to this case. Primary issue wàs faulty start solenoid and then a faulty brand new replacement solenoid. Making matters worse were poor start system cables. I replaceced with new ready made heavy duty cables at 13 quid for two. The engine now turns over so much faster I can't believe it. I reconnected to alarm when trying to get it started again and then once the bike was running I disconnected it and fitted the blanking plug. No more alarm and bike running fine. New plugs and an oil change and she runs sweet. She rides so much better with the bar conversion too. Hope all this might help others in the future. So mucho thanko for all the help and input especially to Sprinter who deffo went above and beyond. Happy days and the sun has come out
Well done for persevering and sorting it out. By every other electrical standards, motorcycle electrical wiring is a nightmare, non standard connectors mixed into a rats nest..... I hate it
