If the battery voltage "drops quickly" how low does it go ? A good, well charged battery should hold reasonable voltage 12.6v at least. Did you fully charge the new battery before installing it ?
Try pulling switch block apart and cleaning/sanding the brass metal piece you find under the plastic starter button ! It can develop an invisible film which doesn't allow full electrical contact ! Symptoms are :- hard press needed and doesn't always turn over... Will work instantly once cleaned, takes 5 minutes or less to do ! Only need screw driver and some medium to fine grit sand paper or emery clothe.
Cheers guys. So yes have cleaned the starter switch properly and it does give a better contact but not cured the fault. Battery drops to 12.6v and holds and yes fully charged from new. I'm hoping taking the starter out is a last resort mainly as i' m trying to find why the start button won't activate the solenoid. When the bike was running it always turned over kind of slowly anyway. I presumed all T595s did. After studying the wiring diagram I'm thinking the main power relay could be at fault giving the low circuit voltage. Turns out I replaced the light inhibiting relay before. This is Hella 4RA 940 010-71but guess what? Can't get them new so now I'm stumped yet again. Should I go for a used one? Sorry if I don't always give specific results guys. I get little time at it and am so far out of my comfort zone and have no internet at the mo as have moved house too.
Not sure how to take that Sprinter Right now I would bite your hand off if you offered me a grand for it. I found a replacement relay that isn't Hella but has the same contact layout and rating so should have it in a few days. I'll be cleaning all plugs and earth points before I fit it. The problem with that is I would never know the real culprit if the issue disappears. As always many thanks for all input
WHEN you sort this , the contacts and leads relays and systems will all be serviced and cleaned, and you will be ahead of the game
True. Just been back out to Check the voltage at the power relay socket. Ignition off = 13.4v at battery. Ignition on = 12.4v across battery and 12.2v at Power relay socket. So power relay probably not at fault. Next job full contact clean up. Fingers crossed
Hi Bernie, there is a popular modification on the 955i engines to improve and battery charging. It involves replacing the wiring (with thicker more heavy duty stuff) to the starter motor and the charging circuit. So what does this achieve? Much faster turnover of the motor and better battery charging.
When you turn on and get 12.4 v I dont think that is enough to allow starting. Someone on here will be able to tell you how much it needs to allow turn over.
12.4v is a bit low. Attach a car battery with jump leads to the bike battery, then test again. I suspect a defective/low charge bike battery.
Ah that's interesting. I may as well try that while it's all apart. Although thinking about it I do have a loop of thick wire with an inline fuse coming out of the loom. I thought this was because the holder in the fuse box was u/s but it could be that mod. I'll try to post a pic today. Cheers Biglad
I have a feeling its 12.2v but I'll double check. As stated it's a brand new sealed battery with around 100 miles on it and it's been on trickle charge when not in use so I'll be well pissed off if it's fooked. I will test with a car battery and post the results asap. Thanks again...
I know that rule applies to the EFi Bonnys, but is it true across the whole Triumph range and when did it start to apply ?
The 'rule' about voltage, ECU's and and starting the bikes engines only applies (as far as I know) to protect the operation of the ECU. It may well be there to protect the sprag clutch as well. Just for general info I THINK all bikes have a sprag clutch, I've heard them mentioned on many different bike forums.
Hi guys here's the latest. I connected a leisure battery with 13.4v via jump leads. With ignition on it dropped to 12.4v in a few seconds. With the jump leads disconnected and ignition off the bike battery gradually rose to 13v. So the battery is healthy. I then connected jump leads from my running car and 14.4v to bike battery. With ignition on it showed 13.4v at battery and 12.4v at start button. Then connected direct to the bike leads (not connected to bike battery) showed 14.4v to earth lead at the frame. 13.4v at Power relay and 12.4v at start button. There is only 0.2v at the fuel pump connector. So now thinking the fuel pump relay maybe faulty or does it only go live with the engine turning over? One side of the start button is connected to the coil in the relay which then connects to the ecu.. Head throbbing now..... .
You need a click and a whirrr when starting Solenoid and Fuel pump. Have you got new Main relay yet? view from 14 min "m-lock" = ignition switch. The fuse @ the ignition Also the ground there
