She's No For Starting- Help!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by d-basser, Nov 25, 2017.

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  1. MrOrange

    MrOrange Guest

    FUCK OFF YA CESMB's !!!!! :p

    Aye, I am a tight bastard, but I am also a feckin lazy bastard as well, and rather than fuck about, I would look see what your local stealer or that dealer that have the parts list on their site (and a very nice young lady in the parts dept, she sounds lovely, might be a right minger, but I got touch on flirting with her :eek::p).

    Sometimes they are silly expensive (any bike panel, especially if it has a bit of paint on it), but sometimes parts like that can be silly cheap and not worth the fucking about. I snapped something on the Land Rover when we first got it, asked how much expecting £40+ and it was £3.26 or something like. Always worth checking in my book.

    Just seen its £15 !!! tell tae git tae fuck :laughing:, make one up for less than that ;)

    :cool:
     
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  2. MrOrange

    MrOrange Guest

    Don't mention the TOPBOX's !!!!!o_O
     
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  3. StrippleMont

    StrippleMont Senior Member

    Nov 5, 2016
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    Just having a lunchtime snifter (Rum of course), Nice and sunny 28*........................................................................................................................................ Right................ Lets talk Top boxes? Is it still in one piece? Any price increases, sold many on the forum from DDDTBE?
     
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  4. StrippleMont

    StrippleMont Senior Member

    Nov 5, 2016
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    "Dodgy Dozers Dads Top Box Emporium":D:D:D:D:D
     
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  5. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
    3,358
    800
    Nr Biggar
    From Lings World of Triump
    appears to be part #
    PFKL1212217
    SUBHARNESS. BATTERY NEGATIVE £16.73
     
  6. d-basser

    d-basser Active Member

    Apr 7, 2016
    159
    43
    Glasgow
    Whereas 2m of cable and the requisite lugs cost me less than a fiver. Plus now I get the fun of bodging
     
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  7. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
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    Bodge away. I don’t want to sound harsh but wasn’t the obvious thing always to splice a new bit on the corroded end with the joint tucked out of sight?
     
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  8. d-basser

    d-basser Active Member

    Apr 7, 2016
    159
    43
    Glasgow
    That was plan A but the existing cable is tough as old boots. Taking the chance to put a more flexible one in that will be easier to refit (splicing to the old would require removing it from the bike anyway)
     
  9. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
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    Tough as old boots? You’ve no been eating yer parritch!
     
  10. d-basser

    d-basser Active Member

    Apr 7, 2016
    159
    43
    Glasgow
    Hey, I resemble that remark ;)
     
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  11. d-basser

    d-basser Active Member

    Apr 7, 2016
    159
    43
    Glasgow
    Made up and fitted a new cable and after a little coaxing she started. Weather's awful and I'm a couple of beers deep so no test ride tonight. Hopefully it doesn't snow tomorrow like it's forecast to.

    For reference, as a makeshift crimper I popped the terminal in a vice with an M4 nut pushed in against it and put a length of steel pipe over the vice handle for extra leverage. Doubt I could have got a more secure joint even with the proper tools.

    20180210_144919.jpg
     
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  12. MrOrange

    MrOrange Guest

    Heat the terminal up, and feed solder into it. Belt and braces, and keeps crud out. ;)
     
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  13. d-basser

    d-basser Active Member

    Apr 7, 2016
    159
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    Left off the solder since there appears to be a long running debate as to whether it makes the joint too stiff or brittle. Put heat shrink and a good layer of dielectric grease to keep crud out
     
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  14. MrOrange

    MrOrange Guest

    Lead and tin alloy brittle?
    Not the last time I checked!!!

    In fact probably one of the least brittle metals around. But if you've heat shrinked it, that should be OK.

    P. S. - you don't actually believe everything that's said on here? :dizzy:
     
  15. d-basser

    d-basser Active Member

    Apr 7, 2016
    159
    43
    Glasgow
    Not the solder itself so much as the fact that if it wicks up the wire it creates a stiff section. If it's going to snap it with be at the edge of this area. Not likely know on a wire of that gauge but soldering didn't seem necessary any how. I've certainly seen it on lighter gauge wires.

    I use other, less sociable, triumph forums for reference but they do lack such quality banter.
     
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  16. Sprinter

    Sprinter Kinigit

    Aug 17, 2014
    6,026
    1,000
    uk

    Spoke to Mech at work this week he was making an Earth for a bus battery 24v He wasnt using solder,When I asked he said 'I would use it but I dont have any , though this will be fine'

    There are other forums?
     
  17. StrippleMont

    StrippleMont Senior Member

    Nov 5, 2016
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    https://www.wikihow.com/Anneal-Copper

    Makes it less brittle, thats why you use crimps. Crimping doesn't alter the hardness like soldering does.
    As Basil Fawlty would say "Sybil, you know best darling!"
    ;)
     
  18. MrOrange

    MrOrange Guest

    Yes, And?

    Less brittle, so therefore like snap!!
    But over a short space of time the copper will return to it prior state. If you heat your copper sump plug washers up, you can reuse, i do.

    Look, I crimp and chuck solder in, nobody else has to, just what I have always done and as I never had a subsequent failure, will continue to.
     
  19. StrippleMont

    StrippleMont Senior Member

    Nov 5, 2016
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    Point taken Mr.O. I was just giving my view. If you use the right tool to crimp the lug on, it will not come off. I can see that the added security of solder adds peace of mind, but it is really not needed! Hey what do I know .................. and its a forum.................. everyone talks shit!:poop:
     
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  20. MrOrange

    MrOrange Guest

    Oh we do that!

    At prodigious quantities!!!! :laughing:
     
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