Well despite only few hours sleep I was woken by postman delivering my new TTP Igniter. Fitted in ten minutes and started bike from overnight cold. Started and warmed up well to idle off choke after 10mins or so. Could only manage trip up and down my street so by no means a conclusive test. However, ran for about 20mins and not a hint of a backfire. Hopefully take for proper test tomorrow when supposedly dryer. That's everything in ignition circuit replaced so fingers crossed. Keep you posted. BTW...TTP service, packaging and quality of products is excellent.
Well ran for 45mins on and off and still have the problem. When warmed up completely and ridden misfire and eventual stalling occured. Stayed local so limped to home. Immediately tested spark which is good both cylinders. By replacing complete ignition believe could now be fuelling? Reason. Idle was erratic and when tried to adjust cant now achieve an idle and just stalls. Will double mechanical timing from valve check. Then remove carbs and clean etc. This could be a long one to resolve and any advice appreciated.
Oh also, misfire seems to clear enough to restart when on sidestand and why does Haynes manual advise idle adjustments with bike on sidestand?
Have you changed the plugs? You might have one with a fine crack that earths out as it heats up. On the fuelling side I would be checking vacuum cap and inlet leaks. Spray WD40 or soap solution around the manifolds.
Yeah. Pugs One of first things I did. Yeah silly me re sidestand...worked that out shortly after posting. Have removed carbs because there was again a lot of debris when draining bowls. Carbs off and quick check over suggests someone had already been in there before as usual rounded bowl screws tale tale signs. The carb to head rubbers had quite a bit of fuel in them. All rubbers seem ok and not too hardened. They definitely need an ultrasonic clean and set up. My local reliable mot guy has quoted me £80 for strip and clean plus parts. Will change bowl screws for Allen bolts for ease of access for next time. Couldn't believe how easy and quickly the carbs came out! Definite change to the struggle multi cylinder jap bikes can be. On the bright side, once sorted should be good for years. Keep you posted.
please do keep us posted on your progress! This is such a pain, I know because I FEEL LIKE WE ARE IN THE SAME SYMPTOMS FOR TROUBLEWELL,KIND OF. best of luck! pardon the odd typing, i'm on a brand new computer and im not used to it yet
yES..aM DETERMINED TO KEEP POSTING UNTIL RESOLVED. Whoops...hit the CAPS key. Had another odd hour before setting off to work so tackled the float bowl screws. 6 out of the 8 needed drilling and an extractor to remove! was straight forward though if you take your time. Removed one bowl and the mess inside is certainly not going to help my problem if not the cause. Totally coated in brown varnish, debris in bottom of bowl. So will drop carbs off hopefully tomorrow to get ultrasonic clean and then a rebuild kit etc. Sorry...should have photographed but was pushed for time. As a bit of history. The bike was not used between 2009 and 2017 so guess it was stored with fuel in carbs and the it went off. It was running fine when bought it a year ago so didn't suspect carb issues. All the symptoms when the rough running/misfire/stall from my research and advice has pointed to ignition from documented experience of this beast. Maybe I had a problem there too as a bad bit of luck? £450 spent on ignition components which is a bummer but have replaced with TTP improvements so when resolved. The bike should be completely sorted. As I've said. wanted one of the carb 865's in this colour to keep stock and enjoy as is. This should definitely be the case.....at some stage!
See also my TPS thread. Well, there's an old saying "90% of carburetor problems are electrical" So after completely replacing my ignition components with the fabulous TTP offerings my misfire/rough running/stalling problem remained. After completely stripping, ultrasonic cleaning and rebuilding the carbs with proper set up. Thoroughly Cleaning the tank and tap filters the Bonnie runs like a dream! No popping on overrun and bags of pull through the rev range. Loads smoother. It's a cliche, but feels like a different bike! So note of caution to you all. On the older bikes get those carbs off, clean them and set them up properly. You won't believe the difference! Thanks to all for the interest and helpful advice during this journey.
@Callumity hot coil's or the correct plugs can make a huge difference in performance ! My America after doing big bore kit with high compression pistons had issues ! The std coils weren't up to it ! Once engine was hot the spark produced wasn't really strong enough to jump the gap in the plug's through the much denser air fuel mix !!! Put heavier much higher voltage coils in and hey presto she now worka fin as the Italian magician would say !
But you are moving the goalposts! Higher compression mixtures are harder to ignite. Most performance gains come as a ‘package’. Simply putting a hotter spark in a standard motor will not make much of a performance difference. The one time you might notice is starting.....and probably only then in colder climates.
When weather is more conducive to pulling plugs at the side of the road l will be doing a plug chop check to see how its performing in its current state of tune. Only have TOR exhausts fitted from stock but do have larger main jets to swap out should l decide to improve airflow with free flow filter and snorkel removal.
Well good luck and put your specs on... plug chops with modern fuel are pretty difficult. The nice range of plug hues and silvery lead salts on the tail pipe are but a memory..... Just remember the paper OEM filter is one of the best flowing. The restriction is all in the schnorkel and internal baffle that suppress induction noise that you cannot hear above this TORs anyway.
Advice once again heeded. So, will probably just go with the snorkel removal/mod as per TTP. Have not researched yet but is the internal baffle straightforward to remove?
You either go permanent easy or temporary fiddly. The easiest way is to take out the air filter and heat the baffle with a hair dryer to make it pliable then pull it out. The proper job requires inner mudguard slackening, and some airbox displacement to slide the baffle out then reselling with silicone. All on the TTP website.
