You'd think by now bike manufacturers would have an efficient and light weight shaft drive unit. My GS850 had shaft drive and it was great.
Wurth high performance dry chain tube. No small brushes, no jam jars of oil, no fling, no mess. It's the future, try it.
I have used gear oil and a Tutoro and their chain oil for quite a few years now. My opinion: Gear oil works but it does fling and makes a mess. I also found that it needed to be done almost after every ride (about 100miles). The Tutoro oil is better and isn't so prone to flinging. Front sprocket gets fouled easier though so needs cleaning more. The Tutoro device however isn't good and for me has proved to be very unreliable. Result is that I brush their oil on the chain instead about every 200-250 miles which seems to work. But it isn't cheap! Ride safe and well.
I have used gear oil and also tried Tutoro and their chain oil for quite a few years now. My opinion: Gear oil works but it does fling and makes a mess. I also found that it needed to be done almost after every ride (about 100miles). The Tutoro oil is better and isn't so prone to flinging. Front sprocket gets fouled easier though so needs cleaning more. The Tutoro device isn't good and for me has proved to be very unreliable. Result is that I brush their oil on the chain instead about every 200-250 miles which seems to work. But it isn't cheap! Ride safe and well.
I was mad keen on lathering my chain in pj1 chain lube. We were in Switzerland and there were roadworks. It was basically dirt and stones, a stone kicked up from my tyre. Unluckily it landed and stuck to the inside of my chain on the lube. As a result it broke the chain, I had breakdown cover but costs in Switzerland are huge. My new chain was hewn from gold by unicorn riding vestal virgins apparently. Must have been for £ 230, Labour extra of course. I now use the Dutch pro-oiler kit and use blue scottoiler oil and D.I.D. chain
I took my bike into fowlers, bristol, for its first 500 mile oil change. Those useless twats put used engine oil on my still perfectly clean new chain which flung off all over the back end of the bike, I was not amused and will never use them again. Kerosene is a good cleaner for chains, and I've always used lithium grease to lube the chain afterwards with no flinging issues.
The two benifits of chain drive are:- 1 The direction of rotation is the same as the wheels, 2 There cheap. Shaft drive is very tidy but as the direction of rotation is 90deg out to the wheel rotation you get an unwanted gyroscopic effect. To counter this you have another shaft rotating in the opposite direction to cancel it, but from what I'm told it doesn't quite work and can upset the handling at high speed. In saying that I've never ridden a shaft drive
Arudge, I have owned and ridden both. With respect and apart from your comment being at odds with the subject of 'chain drive' it also isn't true in my opinion. Under normal riding conditions you really can't tell the difference, even on a race track! Unless you ride in competition or at very high speeds of course. Ride Safe.
My comments were in reply to post #50, where I thought I could shed some light. Clearly, I've spent too much time in the shed, and there's no enough light!! I'm always respectful of personal experience, as I've found on many occasions that the theory doesn't work in practice. But it was a subject I had to study many years ago, and maybe like many things now, it's not really valid. You learn something every day.
In the late 80s early 90s I had two Kawasaki GT 550s and one GT 750 and never had a gyroscopic issue.
[QUOTE="Dozers Dad, post: 294557, member: ] BTW... That looks very much like an NHS specimen pot? Is there another more personal part to the chain lube story? [/QUOTE] Are you taking the pi55 DD .....
