Pictured is the alternator drive cup and shaft off a 94 900 engine. With the alternator removed is this shaft supposed to just slide out? Reason I ask is looking into the shaft the middle almost looks as if it's sheared? Thanks for looking!
Hi Clarkey, I don't know if the cup/shaft assy should be locked in (if there a hole through the splined shaft for a fixing bolt I would guess it should) but to me after examining the pic it looks like it's not sheared, because it is machined with angles, but it does look damaged, perhaps when it came loose? When you took it apart, you didn't come across a lone loose bolt did you?
No the bolt I think may of sheared is down the end of the of the drive shaft, the opposite end to the cup where the rubber cush drive goes.
Well I'm not sure mate, but if you go here to see parts, it might help. You didn't say which 900, so I just started the search with the Trident engine and you can fiddle about to fit your actual bike : http://www.worldoftriumph.com/trium...?block_01=&block_02=304311-1-2&block_03=70124
Cheers Biglad I'll have a gander. This part just slid out gently so no damage and was not touched prior to removal of the alternator so it may either be like that anyway or if sheared, with the alternator fitted the shaft can't go anywhere anyway, bar maybe some for/aft travel?
If the diagram is representative of what you have on the bike then the splined shaft should be retained in place by the bolt ( part 1 on the diagram ) and you have the broken end sheared off stuck in the shaft, which will need removing. You will need to drill and extract the broken bolt, If you have a reversible drill buy a decent 6mm left hand spiral drill bit and center punch the shaft and drill it out. The suggestion for a left hand bit is, as you are drilling the broken part out the heat and friction of the drilling operation in the reverse direction will often extract the broken bolt for you, especially as yours is recessed into the bore in the shaft.
Next question is can I access the head of the bolt from the other side of the engine!? Further thought is how long had it been sheared and do they operate fine like this?
Looking at the pics, I would remove the cover on the other side and check the situation as if the bolt section still in the engine is floating it could well decide to exit via the cover possibly by eating its way through and filling the motor with aluminium paste ruining the motor, better safe than sorry. I suspect you will find the bolt still inside is free to be removed / replaced one you have removed the broken part from the shaft.
I would proceed with caution in case something falls into the engine and you need to split to retrieve it. Look on google to see if anyone else has this issue. http://www.classicmachinery.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10469 http://www.triumphrat.net/trophy/132951-alternator-shaft-questions.html
In this pic isn't that the head of the bolt that has sheared? Will it turn or is it seized in place? Assuming you can remove the bolt, remove it and order a new one. To remove the broke bit of bolt buy some left hand drills, turn your drill to reverse and starting with the smallest drill bit gradually increasing the size. Why left hand drills? Because as you're drilling, very often it winds the broken bolt right out like magic !! https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_dcat=18185&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_oac=1&_nkw=left+hand+drill+bit+set
Ha I wish big lad! Sorry I should of mentioned I've already removed that bolt. It is just to retain the Cush drive cup.
I've just taken another look at the énd pic in your post no 10 and it does look like a. the bolt has sheared & b. there is still some of the splined shaft in there, probably still attached to the bolt. So, is there a cover or something you can remove the other side of this? If yes it should be easy enough to gently undo the bolt whilst holding in place, this should drive out any sheared off bits. Then remove old bolt, flatten off the main splined shaft, apply copper grease, install it, apply threadlock on the bolt, and bolt in place. That's my best guess anyway..................... PS you might need to create some sort of spacer with appropriate washers, to replace the snapped-off section.
I think you need to stop NOW ! Check the correct diagram for your engine before you go any further ...... the gearset you can see on the diagram ( item 24 ) is the sprag clutch and if you cant access it through the access panel " Only Fitted on the Earlier Engines " on the engine casings, I believe it is an engine strip on the later motors to replace the clutch which will probably mean a strip down to repair the damaged assembly. I have never done one of these and you need to talk to someone who has before you get in too far
