Any idea what years of bonneville would have compatible engines? Also, base, SE, T100, thruxton all have the same engine?
You have a 360 degree efi motor which rules out the 270 scrambler, America and Speedmaster. Basically any blacked out ‘regular’ Bonneville from about 2006 to 2015. All the specs here under Twin Tech tab https://www.triumphtwinpower.com/triumph-twin-power-efi-tunes.php
You’re saying that all those years of bonneville should be good? 2006-2015? And sorry but what does blacked out mean?
“ Looking forward to lurking here and asking lots of questions.....” You weren’t kidding!! The engine comes in various finishes from chrome side overs, through polished alloy to anodised black. The frame is pretty stupid. It neither knows nor cares which colour motor you fit. The ancillaries will notice carburettors and odd firing (270 degree has two coils for example). If you do not seek originality go with whatever finish you can find at best price.......
Original spec or rat bike, the choice is yours. If you study the photos you will see what is/is not anodised black and can makes your choice based on what is available at what price. As long as the spec matches, the finish is a secondary issue. Switching out to a 270 or carbed engine is a PITA of additional parts expense and time when you already have the serviceable bits you need. Just remember aluminium takes skilled welding with its sensitivity to heat and propensity to warp. The accuracy needed for stud placement means It is not for a bodger! Try the epoxy and a couple of pins. You might just get away with it.
I’ll have to look into how to do that more - the pins part. I’m about as inexperienced wth this stuff as they come. I’ll also talk to my buddy about what he thinks with his friends welding.
It looks from the photo as though you might have a couple of threads left in the main casting. If you use the right size bolt (not the original it must be too short) you can clamp up the broken portion to the main casting. You can then look to drill one or two holes through the fat part of the stump into the main casting. You may conclude e.g. 1x 4mm hole is easiest. The alloy is fairly soft. Carefully collect and remove all swarf and avoid going right through. Then, when you come to epoxy the broken stud, you can use a high tensile bolt (e.g. the suggested 4mm right length with its head removed) to provide added strength to the repair and resist the ‘lever off’ action of the detent and spring. Chances are, the epoxy will intrude into the hole the detent stud occupies so clean its threads with a tap before attempting re-assembly. Again, engineering hygiene........to collect all/any swarf.
Hi buddy, and welcome, a good epoxy such as araldite will do this just don't overtighten & use some thread lock, and remember, a handle is something you turn or get a grip on, a lever is what you need
Sorry to hear about your problems, but welcome to the forum. I had a nearly identical problem with an outboard boat motor. I took it to a very good machine shop and they were able to weld and re-machine the surfaces for a very reasonable cost. I put the motor back together and never had a problem with the repair. As some of the others have suggested, this is a good time to learn how your bike is built. Just make sure that you have a good repair manual before you start.
Hmmm. My concern will be finding a very good machine shop. In NS there are a lot of “welders” and “machinists”. Hopefully I can find a good shop. Near me is a machine shop that builds racing engines but normally just cars and trucks. Perhaps they can help...
visiting a well-recommended machinist today to see what they can do and what it might cost. My dad is also talking to several machinists he knows in Ontario and a few guys at repair shops... also searching wrecking yards. Trying to combine as many minds as possible on this to come up with the best solution possible.
I've been trying to piece together a lot of this. Would the longer bolt stay in permanently or is that just to clamp it while drilling? Where exactly should the drilled hole go, entirely through the broken off piece around the outside edge of the threaded hole (ie the stump, broken off base part?) and down into the casing (but not through)? I think then when the drilling is done, you mean to say clean up, remove the longer 'clamp' bolt, epoxy and clamp (with a dowel), retap, and then use the original bolt? Or should the longer bolt be used to add strength as well? I hope you don't mind giving further details. Still sorting out with machinists if a skilled weld, an epoxy w dowel, or some combination is the best solution. I wonder about the side-loading from the spring should a weld alone be used.
The long bolt is a temporary means of clamping the parts together while the epoxy cures.....provided you have a couple of threads it can grip in the main casing. Lightly grease the bolt as a release agent or you will struggle to remove it! A separate hole/dowel arrangement in the thickest part of the casting 7 o’clock of the bolthole will strengthen the overall repair. However, a properly executed weld is undoubtedly the best and strongest solution. You are melting the aluminium back together and adding fresh aluminium (shielded by inert gas to prevent weakening oxidation) to create a ‘good as new’ joint. Again, clamping the workpieces is essential to a strong, properly aligned repair. Just make sure any repair shop sees/understands the job required. They will tell you if they can do it without dismantling the engine and gearbox and you will need to get the immediate area free from oil and any risk of ignition! Epoxy may be ‘good enough’ but I cannot gauge the force the spring/detente creates from here.......
Local machinist can’t do it without the engine being apart. My buddy is going to run down and see it and check if his buddy who is a good fabricator can do it while still in the bike. Otherwise he has the know-how to help me get the engine out and apart so it can be worked on, then back together again. Probably done for the season after one ride but we shall see. He can’t help me until the winter.
ps.. the helpfulness and voices of reason here have been immensely cheering during what has been a frustrating bit of bad luck. Thanks all! Will keep reporting...