Quick update. Done short blats on the dual carriage way. It runs fine, needs a new clutch cable for sure! Very notchy and rough, can see the fraying edges. The rear hub was greased when the pads/discs were changed 1000 miles ago, so that is very good news. The engine oil was changed with filter in August... Very dark though. I may just drop oil and give it a fresh lot for my peace of mind. New filter as well. Light, easy to ride, may change pads for SBS ones for a touch more bite, but these ones are okay as they are, but not as progressive as I like. They need a fair bit of pressure to get a good stopping power.
Bought a custom length C Spanner, Headstock socket, new seat pads front and rear and bar risers (not pictured!). And the full Triumph Workshop Manual! Well worth having these bits and will make life a lot easier in maintenance going forward.
Aesthetically this is my favorite Speed Triple (and I have a 2020 RS). I wanted a Nuclear Red Speedy since the first one t saw in 2001 but the stars never aligned. Congratulations and welcome aboard!!!
I've put together a short list of things to be done. Short term: Brake Fluids front and rear - Front Done Replace Brake and clutch levers - Done Fuses check - change 10A for 30A fuse - Done Replace Instrument Cluster back box - Done New engine bolts - stainless steel - Started Speedo Cable - Waiting for Delivery Clutch Cable – Waiting to change LED Bulbs for Headlights - Done LED Bulbs for Instrument Gauges – Waiting for 286 bulbs Oil and Filter Change – Waiting to change Fit Bar Risers – Waiting for Delivery of longer M10 Allan key bolts Replace Indicators – Waiting for Delivery Replace Brake reservoir – Waiting for Delivery Fit Fork Guards – Waiting for Delivery Fit Spark plugs - Waiting to change.
Forks guards now done. Cheap fix off Ebay, £10. LED bulbs are working nicely. Much clearer than before. Have also used TuneEcu (I used to use the Windows version years ago on my Sprint RS) and cleared all error codes, reset TPS and run all tests. Bike is starting on the button and running more smoothly. Warms up quickly enough and it is getting there nicely.
Fuse ratings for my Speed Triple. Just putting it here so that others can find it quickly and easily.
Bar risers fitted. New brake lines on order, going for the single line to each caliper setup, just easier to bleed as well. I had a new brake reservoir on order via Ebay, but Hermes have managed to lose the order, not the first time they have done this, so I've lost a good purchase. At least the seller has refunded the money. Have a nice big 46mm spanner for rear wheel nut. Just need to sort out fitting indicators with bullet connections to the Triumph connections. Will cut and solder the connectors I think, heat shrink etc... Will look neater and just work. But that is work for another warmer day!
I'll be eager to hear how you get on with that 46mm nut... I can't get one off...so all hints and tips eagerly awaited! What brake fluid reservoir you going to get (eventually) or just a replacement?
I'll see how that nut shifts. The spanner is huge, so may well have enough leverage. I'm also a fairly large man at 6ft5 and 19.5 stone in weight, so I can be persuasive.... Looking to get a normal Triumph reservoir as replacement if I have to. Will see how new brake lines go first.
Cool, thanks. I updated all the brake lines too... Have been considering a metal reservoir.... Good luck, enjoy your steed!
Fuel Connectors in the tank are the old plastic ones. One has gone "crack". So I have ordered the Viton ones from Tom Parkers. References below. EX VAT and Delivery which is £8.95 per order. cLCD100040V CPC PIPE THREAD - VALVED - MALE THREAD (THREAD SIZE: 1/4" BSPT - FUEL LINE BODY) £21.53 EACH
You sound far more technically proficient than me, but a heads-up on those fuel connectors, just in case.. which I also got and are great... The seal is not created by tightening the connectors 'home', that will damage the seal. The tightening comes from using ptfe tape and using that to give a fuel tight fixing, but not bottoming out the thread, if that makes sense. So, plenty of PTFE, and thread about half way in. I was told this directly by Tom P...after ruining a pair of connectors
Thanks for that tip. I also have threadlocker which is a sealant in itself, but have lots of PTFE tape laying around (just need to find it). Always glad to have a voice of experience giving advice and real life information.
New Clutch line now fitted, the old frayed one is out and "in the bin" to quote Marty from MightyCarMods YouTube fame! Actually, quite a few bits have ended up "in the bin"! But it is worth it in the long run to have a bike with nice components fitted that just work.
New fuel quick release connectors here. Have to get the broken one out now somehow. It is fragmenting. Fortunately I have a tapping set, so may be able to chase it out bit by bit. Patience is the game for this one. Fuel filter will be here in a few days as well. I've got the fuel flange rubber filter arriving later on as well as the old one was a mess. Must be the original one.
...could you take a few photos of getting to the fuel filter, replacing, and what bits may need replacing at the same time? It's on my list to do...and "real" photos and description of the process is always better than any manual!
Will do. Just waiting for the bits to arrive. I've done the quick release connectors now. PTFE tape was a better idea than locktite. Broken on is on the left. Metal fuel connections. Yay! Got the bits out and had to clean out the broken bits with a tap and die set. The debris removed from the thread. New connectors. Yes one is facing the opposite way. it is the one with longer cable and so easier to release it from that angle.
I will chronicle the fuel filter change and the new fuel plate gasket install. All straight forward to do to be honest.
I plan to do a fuel filter change on my 1998 T595 but don't know whether to replace the short hoses too. Are you just replacing the fuel filter canister?