I am thinking about fitting a couple of front facing lamps, fog or spot, mainly to improve my daytime visibility to other road users. Having trawled the market I discovered that input power to these devices could be anywhere up to 120 Watts. Not wishing to draw more juice than the electrical system could cope with without drawing on the battery I asked Triumph tech advice team how much surplus electricity was generated when the bike was running daytime and nighttime. The response advised the alternator output at 5k rpm. Not entirely helpful. So I then asked how much juice does the bike need to run in daylight and nighttime conditions and how much the heated grips needed. The response received was “We're unable to provide further design specification info in this regard. Simply the Factory do not disclose this information for us to pass on. As previously noted, we cannot recommend the fitment of any non-genuine or modified part to any of our motorcycles.” Unbelievable.
May I suggest the if you are going to add lighting to any motorcycle, you use an LED light. They draw far less current. I have done this on my bikes for years but, it is only recently that really good LED head and driving lights have been available. Most of the LED's in the past required bulky driver units, some even requiring cooling fans, and the fit was difficult. And no...The factory is not helpful. ...J.D.
It was the LED units that I was looking at. Whilst 120 Watts seems excessive it was on a unit that allowed dip and main beam to both be activated. Such as this.
I use a LED drop in bulb. Not sure what the newer bikes use but my bike originally had an H-4. The one I use just plugs in. Driver unit is built into the bulb. Fits just like the old one. ...J.D.
I have replaced the H4 halogen bulb in my Ducati with a similar unit but because the light source is not as concentrated as in the H4 unit or even in the right place I find that for daytime riding the result is great with a very white light output that is more noticeable than the “warmer” halogen unit. However, when riding at night there is virtually no difference between main and dipped beam. This could be exacerbated by the fact that my head lamp shape is not the traditional circular unit as you can see. I have yet to try the OE LED lamps on my Street Triple at night.
Yeh...I have found that the lens in front of a LED greatly affects it's performance. I attribute this to the fact that the LED focuses it's beam within the bulb, whereas a H-4 or other incandescent bulb relies on the lens to focus it's beam. The best setup I have found is to use the LED behind a lens that has no fluting. Also LED's need to be placed in the proper orientation [the diodes need to be on the SIDE of the bulb, per mfg. instructions]. They are usually designed to spread the light pattern horizontally, and if installed 90 degrees off they do not work correctly. ...J.D.
As you can see I don’t have that option as the headlamp lens and shell (reflector) is one piece and not round.
no last time I asked triumph they won't telly anything and want u to bring the bike there so they can have a look and charge you
Stumbled on this company they claim that the wiring harnesses on their site are made in the uk. Wonder if they have a firm understanding of the design aspect? Could be worth giving them a bell re your query or asking if they know anyone. https://www.britishbikebits.com/electrical-parts/wiring-harnesses
If they are like all businesses in the US, they will charge you. They may or may not do anything. But they will charge you. ...J.D.
