The more I read, the more (other) forums I dip into the more uncertain I get! I think I some how I manage to confuse myself with left & right on a bike. To me it depends if your sitting on the bike or standing in front of the headlight. When I take bits of my bike I always label them Throttle side (TS) or Gear side (GS)..Just in case! I am hoping to clear the handle bar clamp issue up. I have always clamped handle bars by inserting all 4 bolts, slowly and evenly tightening up the 'forward' ones (nearest the headlight) first then the rear ones ( furthest away from headlight) last. I then proper tighten or torque forward ones followed by rear ones. This will usually leave a gap in the clamp FACING THE RIDER WHEN SEATED. It can get confusing (for me) when rear and front are used. I dont think I am alone on this and also I have noticed some peoples have gaps in their risers closet to the headlight. Also some people say to use oil on the clamp screws, I was going to use a tiny bit of blue threadlock. Also...the upside down riser bolts are M10 titanium 1.25 pitch thread I was going to use ALOT(ish) of blue threadlock as it is impossible to visually monitor them and because when I undid the old bolts (M10 1.50 pitch thread ) that were installed (with my Motone up & over risers) by my local (closed down) Triumph dealer before I took pocession of the bike (on request) they were surprisingly easy to undo. I had the front wheel between my calfs expecting a good deal of resistance but this was scarily not the case! There was no threadlock on these bolts. I have since been told by a guy at racebolt that M10 1.50 pitch bolts are not used much as they tend to undo? I usually dot a tiny bit of my (spare) bronze nail varnish on important and critical bolts at 12 o'clock to easily visually check fixings. Any thoughts on torque for these riser bolts? Haynes say 38 nm but that's steel ( is there a difference?) and Haynes can over do it. I was thinking of doing it by hand, tight then going back and giving it a bit extra...but I have stripped thread by doing this in the past. Any thoughts/help would be gratefully received.
Herman66 I use silicon on my bolts as then they are waterproof and easier to remove later if needed. I have found this thread lock is as bad for stripping threads than over tightening. And I just lock them down evenly till they are locked and firm enough to lock the bars. Joe.
Thanks Joe, Its good to weigh up the different options, I know what you mean about threadlock but I have never had too much of a problem with the blue stick threadlock. How is the silicon when its time to undo the bolt?
Anything applied to a thread like silicone or grease will make it easier to over tighten, even with a torque wrench. I'm always a bit wary of grease and tightening torque. Some manufacturers are good enough to specify if the fixing should be greased or thread lock applied along with the torque value.
Herman66 It is my opinion the best way to hold nuts and bolts and is easy to remove them again. I even use it for my exhausts as it stays there till you want to remove them. I use it on my t140's and touch wood have never lost a nut or bolt well up untill now anyway. Joe.
Thanks Joe, I think if I was to use silicon it would be best to tighten by hand rather than relying in a torque wrench, at least you could be more confident of the bolt not loosening.
