SO…. Did 50 kms on country roads, at 90-110 km/h & 50 in villages, had a second batt, in case of......the bike was fine and I got the feeling that the engine ran better than before & with better accélérations...certainly a 100% personnal feeling rather than a relal fact... Before departure, contact off batt was 13V Back : - Idle = 12,6V - Engine off :=12,8V - contact on with lights = 12,3V - Engine running idle with lights = 12,3V - 1' idle = 12,3V - 2' idle = 12,3V - engine off = 12,7V second test : 30 min after return - batt = 12,8 v - contact on without lights (fuse removed) = 12,6 v - contact on with lights = 12,2v - idle = 12,4v - 2000 rpm = 12,6v - 3000 rpm = 12,7v - 4000 rpm = 12,8v - 5000 rpm = 12,9v - idle = 12,4v - contact off = 12,7v third test : 40 min after 2nd test <-> 1h10 after return - batt = 12,8 v - contact on without lights (fuse removed) = 12,6 v - contact on with lights = 12,2v - idle = 12,4v - 2000 rpm = 12,6v - 3000 rpm = 12,7v - 4000 rpm = 12,8v - 5000 rpm = 12,8v (12,9 at 5500 rpm) - idle = 12,4v - contact off = 12,7v I Don't really don't know what to think about the values I registered….except maybe the the R/R is a poor quality one..?
Well tested the standard quality battery that was replacd by a supposed top one...was fully charged before - batt = 12,9 v - contact on with lights = 12,2v - idle = 12,4v - 2000 rpm = 12,6v - 3000 rpm = 12,9v - 4000 rpm = 13,2 - 13,3 v - 5000 rpm = 13 v - idle = 12,4v - contact off = 12,7 -12,8v just a little bit more puzzled….
HI All, as d'ecosse said I checked again the stator but this time with the procedure available on electroworld, see below : https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073 everything went OK till last of point B, and then : voltage 1,2 v between 2 wires = stator faulty…. now I got the explanation, just need the parts now.....I will look for on the net & do the work....THX all, have a good week end...
I can guarantee that the resistance/ isolation test I outlined is a 100% good/bad determination without even measuring voltage. If it fails the voltage test it will definitely fail the isolation test - if it does not you are doing one or other of them wrong
yes, it might be…I did it so many times that I can't understand why I Don't have a Failure in isolation test….Following the step by step procedure I only had a voltage Failure. I'm surprised with these results but.... I'll try another multimeter and repeat again all the tests….at least to verify if my multimeter has a problem or if I did Something wrong ... If there's no change I'll open the stator & see what it looks like, if it is good, then it will only cost me time & a gasket. I have to know what's going on with this charging circuit..... Anyway, I Don't know what else to do, except have it checked by the dealer and spend big money...
Hi...had a very nice Sunday on the beach, cliffs of england were clearly visible without binoculars, it was of course much better with binoculars…but didn't see Joe Mc Donald or anybody else… so, today I did the tests with a brand new multimeter and ….all results are the same….Failure on voltage test….I 'll remove the stator & look at it...
I don't see a lot wrong with that - it's hard to tell from the picture, but the area around 3 o clock would be about the only area that looks suspect - however once a winding fails the damage would be typically be MUCH more extensive. My first view is that is just the epoxy that has charred and not the actual winding (although admittedly it is hard to be conclusive without seeing it first hand). But one more time - if the stator was/is truly burned you would ABSOLUTELY get a short between the windings and ground - with it removed, you would check between any one of the three terminals to the core. If it passes the test (no short) then I still have to believe that stator is fine but if you do read short, then it would indeed validate that it is burned through (the other part of your test - measuring the ac voltage - even a failed stator typically only shows slightly lower (maybe 10-15%) vs the two non-failed ones - so your 1.2V makes little sense to me.
The black zone at 3 o'clock is like a slightly greasy burnt bread, with a 2 or 3 mm of wire remaining unprotected. Something has obviously burnt….. I think too there is a Strange thing with this charging circuit...I'll check again if there is a short...if not, I do no know where is the problem...all I can say is that I've tested many times AC voltage & short and Always had the same results with 2 different multimeters..so I'll ask someone else to check, in case of, before ordering parts.....
So note the winding wire has a thin translucent insulation on it - has it actually burned through this or is just the epoxy coating that is burned? Maybe you can clean that up with a brush and some solvent to get a better look at it? What does the other side look like (the reverse side not shown in the image)
...the other side has Nothing suspect....it's a good idea to clean this black zone, i'll do it this evening and post photos of both sides...maybe we'll find an explanation.......
Hi, I tested again before cleaning : still infinite on the multimeter between the 3 contacts & core...so started to brush softly the black zone with a toothbrush (medium, lol…) after 2 seconds a small piece of the crust felt and….problem solved : the wire is cut….so stator at fault... https://postimg.cc/N5hjWVQJ https://postimg.cc/zVnG5jBJ Thx for helpful messages, you did great to solve the problem Manuel
That is a VERY unusual problem - look to see if anything on the rotor has nicked that - you may possibly have a warranty claim (if that was after-market?) If that wire was sticking out allowing something on rotor to contact it - stators just dont fail electrically like that so must be mechanical failure rather than electrical - explains both your readings though!!!
It was the original stator I think...bought the bike second hand at dealer but it was low mileage & recent bike. Anyway, the wire looks really overheated where it is cut….. Didn't see anything wrong on the rotor when I cleaned it, but I noticed on the first bolts I removed that they were not very tight and not all were tight identically…. Don't know if it is a track to follow….I'll check the rotor with more precision to see if there are marks on it or anything wrong on it.
I checked the rotor carefully : Nothing suspect….I cleaned both surfaces for the new gasket, now waiting for the parts….
I agree completely! this forum, and the members, is an excellent source for information. There are no stupid questions here, just go ahead and ask!
I agree too!!!! to avoid the stator + cover block escaping from my hands (attraction by a strong magnet!!) when I'll try to put it correctly on the new gasket, I've cut 4X 20 cms of a long screw bar (diam 6 mm) which will be used as guides. Tested this home made tool : works perfectly...
