Hi everyone…..I'm new on this Triumph forum & I need help at the moment, caused by 2 electric issues on my Sprint GT 1050 of 07/2010, much appreciated and maintained by local Triumph dealer.... 2 weeks ago, as I wanted to come back home (60kms) the bike didn't start : flat battery..so I started the engine with cables, the bike ran well. back home charged the battery and after that no pb...but starting the engine became slowly a bit weak...I replaced the battery, which was a very standard quality, by a top one. No pb, but again starting became a bit weak but the bike was ok, till yesterday : flat battery again. First battery had been charged after its replacement, in order to use it on another purpose, so I checked it : charge was still maximum...so it was not faulty... 1st Pb) I suspect a charging circuit problem...I tested the top quality battery voltage after recharging it : - 13V engine OFF - engine running & lights on : 12,5V - 2000 tr/min : 12,7V - 4000 tr/min : 12,9V - 5000 tr/min : 12,9V I tested also the standard quality battery with the same procedure : same results... but then occured the second problem …….(see 2nd pb) As far as I know, the voltage should be around 14-15V at 4000-5000 tr/min. My conclusion is that the stator or its connector is faulty…. 2nd Pb ) Fuel gauge after replacing one more time the top battery in the bike, the fuel gauge didn't work anymore! So I checked all fuses : no pb, I checked all dashboard functions & equipments : no pb... contact on : checking operation is fine and shows all the bars of tank gauge & T°, engine starts & runs well, it stops immediately 1st gear engaged with the side stand deployed, T° indicator increases well. Fuel level alert was activated during test, so I refilled 5 liters and fuel alert vanished, but the gauge didn't react although fuel level was a bit low before. I suspect a fuel gauge failure... As having the bike repaired at the garage will be costly, my questions are : - Am I correct for these 2 pbs : faulty stator & fuel gauge? - what are the part references of a stator, its casing seal & a fuel gauge? - what are the torque of the bolts fixing the stator & its casing? - what are the procedures to fix these problems? thanks, MC
Hi Mate, I'd say you're on the right track regarding the charging issues. You should be seeing more than 12.7v at 2000rpm. Not sure what the issue is with the fuel gauge though? We have more than one electrical genius on here. One or more of them will be along shortly to give a professional opinion.
Hi, thanks for your encouraging answer...I Don't think fixing these problems is a big job...but having done supposed "light" works on cars that became horrible tasks, any help will be welcome…..
You certainly have a generating system problem a) stator connector b) stator c) R/R a) Inspect the connector - if burned/melted replace both halves (and do test for b regardless) b) Disconnect Stator - measure RESISTANCE from any ONE of the three terminals to engine ground - this should be infinite - if you get 'short' then stator is toast. If you confirm 'open' (infinite resistance) then stator is good and there is NO NEED to open the cover.* c) If neither a or b, then R/R is most likely bad. IF you do need stator, then source from US supplier RicksMotorSportElectrics,com - even though you are in France, they WILL ship overseas and supply a quality after-market product. Do not spend the crazy Dollars (Euros!) on OEM Torque for stator mounting to cover bolts - 12Nm Stator cover bolts - 9Nm Fuel Gauge - That is derived from the CANBUS signal from the ECU to the Instruments. I would be doubtful if the gauge itself. It may more likely reside at the sensor end. I'm not that intimate with the GT, but know with Rockets, the gauge won't actually register until after the bike has done some distance - have you ridden it? Not sure why you mentioned dies when put in gear with side-stand down (which is what I think you mean by 'deployed' ?) - that is normal - it's a safety interlock. If it does it with side-stand RAISED, then you would have a problem with the side-stand switch not making in the 'up' position.
Manuel C Wondering did you charge the battery before you fitted it. Batteries sit in shops and do lose charge. When you fit it the bike marks that level as fully charged and won't chare any more beyond that point. Yes I think you probably have a rectifier fault. But do check the stator. When you get these sorted do the 12 minute run on idle no throttle and things like the fuel gauge will probably rectify itself. You may have to let it cool and do this a couple of times. Then when you ride the bike it should sort its self out. Do let us all know how you get on. Regards Joe.
Thanks for your quick, complete & helpful answer….amazing….I didn't ride the bike after to avoid a possible breakdown on the road, which is a true pain in the neck ...I meant side-stand down and mentioned it to prove I tested all functions without finding any other problem….no more......maybe I didn't explain well...English is not my language so forgive some possible mistakes, confusing sentences and other strange things… I will test as you said as soon as possible! thx again, I'll come back with results.
yep...I charged the battery before installing it….I always do it...Ok, I'll test the 12 min method...fine if it works!!! Thx for advice
12 Min tune is not going to change your charging system problem any and unlikely to have any effect on fuel gauge either I'm afraid
Manuel C Yes side stand once you engage a gear if the side stand is not properly returned to it position the bike will cut out. I do hope you get it sorted as they are a great bike. Also if you are unsure of the electrics ask a auto electrician to test them or even someone who understands the thresholds. Regards Joe
Manuel C Do sort the charging fault first as it will not help if the bike is not charging properly. Regards Joe.
Manuel C Mate I don't think you are either and I commend you for trying. Take it slowly and read up on it or go on YouTube and see what it brings up. Yes you know you will get there we your Bro's have every faith in you. Regards Joe.
Thanks….I'll managed to put back on the road an old automatic Citroën BX...just for pleasure ....it was a true great fun doing the job, and a few headaches after it droves fine and still does….so a success with the bike is possible...
That was my thought also The tests I outlined in my first reply are very easy to do if you have a multimeter - if you don't, you might consider to buy one, they are quite inexpensive for something that will do the job just fine. And bike does not even have to be turned on or running to do those tests! Report back with your finding and we'll advise from there .........
