Yes, makes sense as these things are so tiny. To be fair the state of the seals and O rings were in good nick but I changed them anyway. These are over 20 years old so these new should might outlive me!! The O rings on two of the carbs pilot jets were missing, so some else had definitely been firtling about.
Cheers, that's really interesting and makes sense why they have a big box for those carb design. So having a big box replicates atmospheric pressure. If the pod filters create a negative pressure it will compromise the fully opening of the main jet. Will look at duplicating your design and feed back Chris
I'm talking about pilot jets (next to main jets) not to be confused with pilot air screws. Although like you say these can have issues too as you have found.
Yes at least two of these looked blocked to me, once cleaned i checked the jet's patency with a thin strand of coper wire being careful not to damage the jet bore. Not sure if these are standard but there were some small petrol filters inserted inside both of the petrol hoses leading into the carbs. You wouldn't have known they were there unless you removed the petrol pipe from the carb. Are these good to use in this setup or can these reduce the flow of petrol? Cheers Chris
I use copper wire. It will not harm the brass jets. I've found even ultrasonic cleaners will not clean out the pilot jets. compressed air neither. I've known people try compressed air only to fire it across the room never to be seen again
Hi All Has anyone changed the sprocket sizes on the Daytona 900. I was hoping to increase the torque, not worried about loosing the top end. Looks like the rear sprocket has 43T as standard, and you can increase the rear to 48T (Triumph Hinckley Spares). Would this give you 43/48 = 10% (ish) change, and in this case 10% more torque or 10% drop in top end speed?? Also by increasing the size of the back sprocket by 5T, how many more chain links would that increase to from the standard 110. I can purchase a chain with 114 links would this length be ok as well as the teeth size being 530 Cheers Chris
Can't be too OCD when carrying out engine work, takes longer, but right first time, every time. Belts & braces
Hi All Update on the pod air filters, the best mixture setting for the Mikuni carburettor after a few months changing settings. 1. The jest size increased from 125 to 135 as described above 2. The jet needle raised to the maximum No 5 3. The pilot needle open by 4 turns instead of 11/2 from the factory These settings give you a very smooth tick over and a decent pull away torque. Once you open the throttle the bike just wants to go, very responsive. These settings won’t probably save many trees but the bike runs great. The rim of the pod filter sits away from the vacuume port so doesn’t restrict the throttle slide valve. As the pilot needle is situated on the engine side of the carburettor, this controls the amount of fuel entering the inlet and not air, hence opening increases the fuel mixture.
The cooling system guard, and generator casing looked a bit tired and scratched Sanded down to the metal Three coats of primer Three coats of satin black Three coats of petrol resistant lacquer Will bolt on once the paint is dry after a week, also Matt it off a bit to blend in with the rest of the painwork Both mounted on
Cheers, powder coating is probably the way to go, hopefully it will stay on. The lacquer is supposed to be petrol resistant, we’ll see how resistant it is
The chain also needed a good clean, i’ve always used cans before many seem to use paraffin. Makes sense as it’s kinder to rubber leaving the O rings alone. Purchased a 4 Litre container from Homebase and a spray bottle for £7. And it worked a treat, with loads left and emergency heating Finished with chain wax
Do the maths this way, divide rear sprocket size by front sprocket size, so 43 ÷ 17 = 2.52 then 48 ÷ 17= 2.83, that's not 10% ? But it is a significant jump in torque/revolutions for the same road speed. There is a drive ratio tool on here somewhere.
Try drilling out the vacuum bypass port in the throttle piston, it's the small port/hole next to the jet needle ! I did this on my 94 trident, didn't need to re-jet , just lifted needle approximately 1/2 way between notches by putting washer under the locating / holding clip. My bike idled better and pulled better and bettered the top speed too,the fuel economy also improved very slightly if I rode sensibly, got as much as 25 klms a ltr , so a possible 550+ KLM to a tank !
Interesting, seems there is a lot going on with these carbs to get the mixture right. Also very specific to individual bikes. Will have a look at the plugs at different rev settings and see what’s being burnt. Seems to me if it starts first time, ticks over sweetly, and pulls you along when you open it up without hesitation, it must be there about. Cheers Chris
For my own information as my Trophy is very similar to your Trident What size did you drill out the bypass to ? When you lifted the needle was this from the std setting ? Did you find any hesitation at all throughout the rev range ? Was the airfilter std or modified and was it on a Std exhaust system ? I know I'm always full of questions
You only need to drill out hole by a small amount, I can't remember exact size but it was tiny like 1/16 or similar, lifted needle from std setting with shim/fibre washers, about 20 or 30'000 ths of an inch, had K & N air filter, used two exhaust systems, 3 into 1 or std original, ran fine either way ! There was no hesitation anywhere, this is what drilling out the port in combination with lifting needle does, quickens up piston response/lift and adds bit more fuel. Cheers capt
Nice to hear 'thous' are still used. 'Drill out hole by a small amount' Is that the same as a smidging ?
