06 Daytona 4 tries to start but won't run. Have had it running but it stopped cleaned injectors, fuel pump working engine light is on and this makes buzzing noise on switching off ignition any help out there????
Have you checked the side stand and clutch lever. What are you getting? Starting System Symptoms: Weak battery symptoms: -- Slow cranking. -- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed. -- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking. Repair: -- Charge/Test/Replace battery. Failure Modes: -- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting. -- Won't hold a charge. -- Low voltage/cell failure. Preventative Maintenance: -- Check fluid levels regularly -- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger. Ignition Coil failure symptoms: -- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking. -- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning. -- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles Repair: -- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils. Failure Mode: -- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark. Preventative Maintenance: -- None Testing: Pickup Coil failure symptoms: -- No spark at all -- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool. -- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss. Repair: -- Replace pickup coil Failure mode: -- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period. Preventative Maintenance: -- None. Get a spare. Testing: -- Ohms checks hot and cold. Worn starter symptoms: -- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear. -- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound. -- Click from under seat but no cranking. Failure Mode: -- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage. -- Bearing failure related to brush wear. Repair: -- Rebuild or replace. Preventative Maintenance: -- Maintain battery in peak condition. -- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in. -- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again. Worn sprag clutch symptoms: -- Very loud rattling when cranking -- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn Falure Mode: -- Breakage Repair: -- Replace sprag clutch Preventative Maintenance: -- Maintain battery in peak condition. -- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in. Worn starter solenoid: -- Click from under seat but no cranking. -- Won't crank after rocking bike. -- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected. Failure mode: -- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction. -- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut. -- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement. Preventative Maintenance: -- None. Repair: -- Replace starter solenoid. Testing: -- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoid contacts. ------------------
That looks like an Idle Air Control Valve. If you’ve got it apart, what does it do when you switch on the ignition? I think it should move through a test cycle. If it’s not working properly your fuel mixture will be off which I presume would cause problems starting. Is it the Engine Management light that’s on? You need to read any fault codes it’s stored to get a better steer on what the problem might be.
Done all this it s wanting to start but just won't pick up this solenoid was all stuck up and wasn't working what does it do ? It's connected to the air box and there are a couple of pipes missing it has had electrical problems and the alarm has been bypassed checked everything else can only be an electrical faul. It's been stood about a year. it was making a buzzing noise so i took it off to see what i could find it split appart and the plunger thingy was stuck in the top piece i freed it off with some WD but couldnt figure how it went back together . the plunger seems to want to screw into the solenoid bit . i have had it going thro some sort of cycle but it just spits the plunger out at the end of it! causing much searching for the spring and ferrule. the plastic in the solenoid seems to be worn as there looks to be some sort of retaining slot for the plunger
Not sure about this model but the solenoid looks similar to the IACV on my Daytona 955. I’ve attached a diagram from World of Triumph parts which shows a valve at #24, and some pipes. I’m guessing this is what you’ve got? If it’s like mine, the plunger screws into the solenoid and the plastic housing that the solenoid fits into has ports for airflow to the intake manifold, and the solenoid is adjusted by the ECU to regulate that airflow. I’m only guessing here as I’ve never worked on a 600 so it could be for something completely different
sorry for not getting back til now had my head in it for a ouple of days now! replaced the idle air valve, new battery,think injectors are all clean. it still wont run it stars for a few seconds and backfires alot as if the plug leads were on wrong or injector leads on wrong? showing no codes on OBD2 at my wits end now ....it may catch fire!!!!
You say it has been running? All I can suggest is you go back through what you’ve done and check all connections, hoses etc that have been disturbed since it ran.
Swampig. Welcome to the Family. Don't know about the problem but wish you luck with the peeps here. Regards Joe.
just been out in the garage been through all i have touched and all ok . side stand a bit loose so that was tightened up.its still trying to start but wont pic up occasionally itll fire for a few seconds then stops. (tormenting me!!!) feels like fuel is not getting through properley or not enough of it. it tends to start ish after a short rest which leads me to think that there is fuel seeping in under pressure. so i'm going to check the injectors again pain in the arse!! unless any one has any new suggestions??? thanks by the way for the help!! dont normally work on such complex bikes more of an old school guy!
Not sure how the fuel feed is on these bikes. Is it a single hose from the tank to the fuel rail, with a quick release connection on the tank? Any chance of a picture of the tank connection area?
Yes just one connector to the fuel rail from tank plenty of fuel squirting out on disconnection so I assume there is correct pressure!
Is the rail under pressure all the time this could be why it fires after a few minutes rest which leads me to think it’s the injectors