What I have just tried is pushing the hose further up. Clamping it even tighter and putting some sealant around it. Going to try that until the cap arrives.
Thanks for the photos, as they say, a picture speaks a thousand words Well, the pipe joint for the expansion pipe is defintly perished. Seems someone way overtightened the clip and shattered it! I couldnt work out what that was on the second photo, it seems something is jammed into the pipe and is protruding about an inch. That would certainly not be doing any good for the radiator cap if it is. There does appear to maybe be enough of the pipe remaining to attach the pipe, but you would need to get that pipe right butt up against the radiator and the clip too. Danger being of over tightening it again as it is already weakened From what I can see, I would remove whatever that is that is jammed into the pipe, I am pretty sure it should not be there. Slide the pipe onto the joint as far as it would go and tighten it gently, when you refill it, let it leak and gently tighten it until the leak stops. If it cracks and really buggers it up at least you gave it a go. Other than that it would either be a welding job to get a new connector on there, or a new radiator. Others may well say don't risk it and get a new radiator. One observation is that from what I can tell the coolant seems to be a dirty brown colour, if this is the case, please, please do drain it out, top up with fresh water only, run the engine for a few minutes to get it circulating, drain and then replace with fresh clean sweet smelling motorcycle dedicated coolant.
Posted before I could get my reply in You would need to remove all sealant from the inside of the cap area. It needs to be smooth so not to obstruct the new cap. Don't use rough sandpaper as that would cause the surface to get micro scratches which would mean the seal is compromised
When I got the bike i found the reservoir under the seat to be completely Empty so I filled it up with motorcycle coolant . So it's got over a litre of fresh coolant in . And it's sitting up in the actual radiator with some bright coolant so not too worried about that. I have now only put gasket sealant around the external pipe . So will Leave it a while to dry. The cap does feel like it doesn't want to sit tight on there too properly. I've only had the bike under a week. Not really fancied riding it with this problem . At least when it's sorted i will have piece of mind!
While it has some fresh coolant in there, what was it like to start with? It is just a matter of getting the coolant from your local Halfords or Amazon, about £5/£7 a bottle, you may need a couple. Disengage the lowest pipe (left hand side of the engine I beleive) and let it all drain out. Run water from a hose into the filler on the radiator to flush all hte crap out you can, connect it up, refill with water, run it 5/10 min, drain and then fill up with coolant. As all the crap sits at the bottom of the coolant system, there could be a lot of sludge there that you dont see at the filler cap on the radiator. While you have this issue, I htink it would be a good opportunity to clense the whole system
Regarding the cap, there are two stages before it is secure, in total it is a little under a half turn I think. You need to push the cap down for the final bit to secure it. But make sure that the whole area where the seal sits is clean and smooth, no gunk, sealant, or anything else in the area
Quite clearly the pipe on the rad has been snapped off and the previous owner has bodged it with that piece of pipe to try and get the pipe back on, as this has to be airtight to enable cooling liquid to return to the rad under vacuum as well as let coolant escape to the tank i would recommend you remove the radiator and get a professional repair done with the pipe as it's an easy soldering job for a rad repair company. Clearly the rad cap has failed as well. As above nothing less than a full flush and new coolant are req as it's far better to do it correctly now than later after you done more damage
Evening fellas. I did a full flush like you said. It wasn't too bad to be honest with you. But now it's all fresh anyway. And interestingly enugh what you have said about the cap. It's almost a full term for mine to lock. If not a bit more so could be that. Taking the radiator to a welder seems like a good plan. I will see the cap tomorrow and go from there .
Hi Dave, I just came across this and wondered if it might interest you. As the rad fits a range of Triumphs it could fit yours and the spigot (which is broken on yours) appear to be intact. Plus this guy is a good spare parts supplier so he might have other bits for your machine ??????????? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-S...681676?hash=item3d24fec60c:g:8MIAAOSw3mpXLzsM
Thanks bud but That radiator is very different to mine. Mine kinda curves. I have also found a radiator on ebay but it's £180. From a decent spares guy too. Everything seems in tact. Will be a quite forward swap I reckon I definetly need to get one .
Evening! Coolant problem sorted. It was the cap . Replaced it and now no leak at all. I have a new problem. Last night I had a half hour ride. Got to the petrol station. Bike wouldn't then start, It kept clicking over like it was a battery problem. And then it all went flat and display went. Mate picked me up. Took the battery to charge. And boom it worked so I thought where the bike has been sitting for 3 months with no use it was that. Tested it today with engine off and it was reading 12v. And with engine on it was reading 14.4v so it is charging and holding juice. Today again anther half hour ride. Pulled clutch it and it just died. Mate was behind me as we was seeing it if happened again luckily. So we thought bugger it. Go buy a new battery so we did but also took the old one. It was still reading 12v but wouldn't start! ? Then we got back . I thought i would try the old battery and it fired up first time so I haven't even used the new battery. As not to sure it is that. Any ideas !? Could it be the reg rec? Getting annoyed now!!
Reg/rec sounds like it's working ok as it shows 14.4 so it could be a dodgy connection somewhere, try checking all the ignition lead connections inc the starter for a start, will think some more on this. Worth checking the clutch/side stand switches and start switch for corrosion on the contacts.
OK Dave, all efi triumphs have a built in volt meter in the ECU , every time you hit the starter button it monitors voltage drop !!! If voltage drops to 12.1v or less the starter won't be allowed to work, the bike symptoms for this is all electrics drop out for a few moments/seconds then everything comes back online. Is your bike doing this ??? If so definitely new battery is required. Its cranking voltage not idle/storage voltage that you need to take notice of, idle batteries die if left for too long without a battery monitor/charger. I have had 4 triumph since 1994, the longest a battery has lasted me was 4 years with regular daily or at least weekly use. And we don't have the long or coldest of winters here in Australia, We get to ride all year round if we like!!!
P.S. when referring to a location on a vehicle you always assume you are standing behind looking at it, for future reference. Good Luck sounds like you got it sorted.
if I am right a charged battery can read good and only have one sell working , so you start bike deplete cell and next time it wont start. seems like your prob. new battery should solve this.
Yes it was doing this. Except the display finally fizzled out completely and then there was nothing. I used the multi meter and it was saying it was 12.03v so I have replaced the new battery. I haven't taken it for a long enugh ride to see if it made any difference /conks out on me as the coolant started leaking again so sticking to my car until it is sorted. I haven't got the time in between work to have a proper look now so taken it to the garage to see what they say about the coolant problem. Then depending what/price I will do it on my next day off or just get them to do it. I need the bike for the east London traffic !
Just for your info Dave, whenever I put a new battery on anything - car, bike whatever - I put the new battery on charger with an intelligent charger for 24 hrs, then stand the battery one hour disconnected, then check the standing charge (should be about 13v) then install in the vehicle. I know the suppliers will tell you it's ready for use - but newsflash for you - the Moon is NOT made of green cheese. Even though we were told as youngsters by the soup dragon that it is. I do this establish a baseline in case of future starting problems - I want to know it's not the battery !!!!
