Clutch Casing Replacement Now Bike Won’t Start

Be systematic,please.

 

I would suggest you use the flow chart Jim worked out and rule out things one by one.
I’ve known optimisers to falsely report the state of the batteryso you do need to be systematic.
Start by checking how much charge the battery actually has, that would rule out a dead cell if it has the correct charge or not.
Or even enough charge to turn the bike over

 

snot mine Gary I pinched it.
Have you check crank position sensor?

 

The sidestand switch can get sticky and not open properly. With sidestand up is the plunger freely moving to its fullest extent? Worth lubing anyway with dielectric grease.....

 

Absolutely

- identify by elimination. As my mate Sherlock says, “How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?”

 

Might be helpful to ignore/eliminate the ignition circuit at this stage (coils, ECU and crank sensor) as the initial problem is getting the starter motor spinning.
Checked all fuses?
If you have adequate battery power - as demonstrated by Ranger battery +ve to +ve etc. and you get a click......then we potentially have a starter solenoid to starter motor wiring problem (-ve as well as +ve) or a defective motor.
I would start with continuity checks from starter relay socket to starter +ve.
You should see battery voltage motor +ve to frame with starter button depressed. Third hand needed! Let us know outcome

 

Great believer in KISS - keep it simple stupid.
Rule out the easy ones first such as battery, fuses etc. If it’s none of those then using a flow chart such as Jim’s knicked one just makes it simplistic and systematic .

 

KISS indeed

Simon, when you say both relays checked out can you verify which relays and how? Generic or branded relays will cost £3-£10 so a cheap swap out. The headlight relay above the airbox snorkel switches power from headlight to starter circuit so I would be interested to know if depressing the starter button gets a click AND kills the headlight.

 

When I changed my clutch plates, I remember the starter sprocket coming away with the crankcase and a washer or two
Are you 100% sure everything went back as normal, that there is no chance a washer has dislodged and could now be jammed between the starter cog?

 

Callumity is right check solenoid next.

 

Sounds like it unfortunately....

Have you checked the block connections in the loom....(under tank and in headlamp shell?)

 

The CPS is a wee coil housed under the RH triangular engine cover that registers the rotational movement of the end of the crankshaft and fires a signal to the ECU. The ECU then fires the ignition spark.
To be crystal clear: you energise the ignition circuit when you switch on the ignition. You energise the STARTER CIRCUIT when you press the starter button. They only interact to the extent the CPS triggers the spark timing once the crank is turning. Your STARTER CIRCUIT contains the known problem, not the ignition circuit. For now the CPS is completely irrelevant. If the engine was turning but not starting it might be an issue. Turning first!

Accessing the CPS involves draining some oil, bike on sidestand, cleaning and re-sealing with a new gasket. Unnecessary as you can test its resistance via the lead to the ECU. Save it for another day!

The loom connectors I am talking about are multiplugs.

 

Go with Callumity first Im learning too.
On my 955i the CPS was in the Clutch casing thats why I mentioned it, thats all. Let Callumity guide this thread mate.
And you sure are learning.