I have a 2020 Street Triple RS and the other day, riding home, I noticed that my turn indicator would not go on and the menu screen would not switch. I had low fuel so I pulled into a gas station to fill up. After that, turned on, and it didn't crank, turned it off and on again, same thing. Could hear the fuel pump going. Noticed that none of the button on the left (turn signals and joystick menu control) or the right (Mode) button worked. Got my bike towed to the dealership where I purchased it from brand new which was nearby maybe a mile and a half give or take still cost $122 :-( Dealership called me next day, found issue with the cables crimp/bent, told them maybe it was the bar risers, but service guy said mechanic said couldn't be. Clutch switch needed to be replaced and there were bends in the wires for the joystick and turn signal buttons, etc. I went down to put a deposit for the clutch switch and he showed me and said when the bike is in the parked/locked position, the cable bends outward and said sitting in the position for a long time with heat could cause the bend. I park it in a covered patio and although it gets a bit of the afternoon sun it's not sitting all day in the sun. I don't ride it much, but if this is the case, there is a design flaw. Has anyone had this issue? Total for repair will be between $700 and $800. Do I have any grounds to be compensated by Triumph? I didn't take pictures, but I'll try to post later. Thanks for any info/comments! -Jon
I guess if it is still in warranty the dealer should raise it with Triumph. If not given the bike is likely only just out of warranty it would be worth raising it with Triumph as the problem is not some thing you would expect on a two year old bike.
Thanks for the comment. I called Triumph and the service person I spoke to (in the US service Dept) said to ask the dealership to send in a Goodwill Warranty Claim and in turn they will forward it to the UK to review. The Dealership wanted a confirmation from Triumph before they send in the claim. So I emailed [email protected] and the Service Consultant from the Dealership and waiting for a response.
If I was in your shoes and if the warranty request was turned down, i'd attempt to repair it myself before getting a replacement at that cost! Cut open the cover and cut each cable (about an inch each side of the "likely" break point and solder in a bit of replacement wire. Heat shrink over each wire and do that on all of the wires. Battery out first though! Wouldn’t have lost out as you'd be buying a new one anyway so win-win if it works.
As @Ducatitotriumph suggests the wiring break is fixable, if not able to do it yourself any competent auto electrician would be able to do it at reasonable cost. Personally I would say the bar risers IS a contributing factor (and expect Triumph to say likewise) to the failure as it pulls the cables tighter. I speak from experience as I fitted risers to the wife's Street3 and took the trouble to reroute wiring and brake line to avoid that problem. Were the risers fitted by your dealer I wonder?
I fitted bar risers to the ZZR and had to rearrange the wiring and cables. They were only 1.5" rise but it made the wiring to the bar switches uncomfortably tight on full lock.
Fitting bar risers on a Street Triple 765rs (and other models) result in the cables becoming stretched tight, what happens is it can and does put kinks in those cables resulting in disconnected wiring from switches and loom breaks, also on full lock they are stretched to maximum, some of the higher risers are potentially dangerous as the front brake lines become "bow string tight", and that is scary, as is the ride by wire throttle, the correct thing to do is re-route all the wiring and fit longer front brake lines. Ducatitotriumph sums it up perfectly and that's the way I personally would go.
Yes, I paid for them (the dealer) to install the risers and it was taking a while... I was waiting at the dealership for them to install and I was told it was tight. Now that the cables have become bent, they are back tracking and the mechanic that did the install is saying he never said that it was tight; albeit, everything was relayed to me from the mechanic through the service agent/consultant there. I can tell you that I waited about four hours for the risers alone and thought it would take about two to three hours for my oil change and the risers. The risers I purchased move the bars 1.5 inch up and 1 inch back. The current mechanic told the current service consultant that he has higher risers than mine with no problem. Yours and others feedback maybe confirming my suspicion about the stress on the wires. I did tell the service consultant during the install last year that if it is too difficult/tight, then do not need to install it. Thank you for your comment!
I fitted 765 bars onto a 675 ( I have both bikes and preferred the 765 bar dimensions) and the small quite subtle change meant the throttle cables on full right lock were in my mind unacceptably tight. Fifty odd quid later I fitted two new 50mm longer throttle cables. I'd say your bar risers were either the direct culprit or a contributing factor to exasperate an existing marginal issue.
This is the bar risers I purchased on Amazon. I would've attempted the install myself, but two things, I don't have all the proper tools and I'm not familiar with motorcycles. I highlighted the last item in the product details to point out my unfamiliarity with motorcycles and entrusted the dealership to make that determination as they supposedly have mechanics qualified to work on Triumph motorcycles. However, I guess I should be wary since their in-house Triumph mechanic insisted that my dash was not a TFT display. Shame on Triumph for selling me a non-TFT dash and listing it on their specs online (yes being very sarcastic). Rox Speed FX 3R-B17R-15M 1-1/2in. Barback Risers for 1-1/8in. Handlebars - Machine Finish Product details Color silver Brand Rox Speed FX Material Aluminum Sport Motorcycling Item Weight 1.01 Pounds Move the handlebars 1-1/2in. up and 1in. back or forward from the OEM position (can be installed facing either direction) Designed to work on any bike with a stock 1-1/8in. Fatbar, parallel OEM bar clamps and open mounting area Machined from 6061-T6 aircraft-grade billet aluminum Engraved Rox logo for a clean and understated factory look Always check and confirm that your machine has adequate cable and brake line length before installing handlebar risers
Unfortunately, there are multiple factors at work here. I already had it towed to the dealership, I didn't know what the issue was (they knocked off 2.5 hours of troubleshooting time in cost which took them 30 minutes), I didn't want to pay for a tow, but my brother-in-law may have been able to help me move it back home, it will take 3 to 4 weeks before they could get a new clutch switch, and I'm going on vacation in a couple weeks. But you bring up a very important thing, why can't they just solder on extra cable and save me money? I do know how to cut and solder electrical lines. Thanks for your comment, very enlightening! At this point, after everything is fixed, I'm taking it to someone else to take out the bar risers and put back the original bar clamp, it is a bit more comfortable with the risers, but I rather have that than breaking wires and a broken front brake cable!
Hi again, wow that dealership should hang their heads in shame, firstly all Street Triple 765rs models have a TFT dash and looking at the pictures you posted yours is certainly an RS as it has Big Piston Showa front forks, and other RS features. Also, it only takes 30min to install bar risers from start to finish, not to mention the time they took for the oil service (annual I presume). Now there may be good news in all this, firstly I am not familiar with consumer law in Hawaii, however given the bar risers were fitted at a Triumph Dealership and the technician did not make you aware fitting them would cause issues, and I strongly suspect Triumph do not recommend fitting risers without fitting appropriate length cables and brake lines, hence why Triumph do not list bar risers as an accessory. I would insist the dealership place a warranty claim and don't be fobbed off with excuses. I really feel for you as you say you have no mechanical skills and trust it to the dealership, in my view they have failed you, so stick with it and insist matters are rectified be very firm but polite and keep the forum posted.
Thank you for your reply. You and others have been so amazing and supportive. I should've posted this earlier, but I got a response back from Triumph and basically said it's up to the dealership whether or not to do the Goodwill warranty claim, which the dealership said will do. And, I just got called back from the service consultant and he said Triumph will only pay for the part, which I paid for already, so they'll "figure out" how to apply it to the service hours, but sounds like they reduced the cost, because he said I may have to pay only about $100 more, which means about $350 plus the $120 tow. It's probably going to be fixed, hopefully when I get back from my vacation. I would like to thank you again and everyone for the awesome responses. This forum is amazing and the people on it are amazing
Well that is good news but I feel you need to push harder! The issue was created by their workshop installing a customers, possibly niave, request when they should as a dealer have advised caution. Was the initial install invoice noted with a get out clause like " customer advised issues may be created by the new configuration" or some such addendum? If not, then that makes them liable surely and so a far lesser payment, if anything at all, should come from you. Is it not negligence on their behalf?
Eldon spells it out spot on, please don't let them bully you into paying at all, to replace the parts it takes less than 1 hour, are the dealership saying they charge $350 an hour labour, absolutely outrageous, keep calm when discussing the rectification, but be firm and let them know in no uncertain terms that you expect them to carry out the repair at no cost to yourself. Don't forget dealerships work to book times set out by Triumph (and most manufacturers), some dealerships try it on saying "oh it takes A-B or C time to do", it is not your problem if the mechanic is unable to do a repair within the book time, that is down to the dealership, also many dealership mechanics are on a bonus for completing work in less time than they charge their customers.
Hi Everyone, Sorry for this late post... everything happened so fast and then went on vacation for a couple weeks. The service manager wouldn't budge on charging me the service fee. I kept trying (reasonably, never raised my voice) to say that I got overwhelming response from this forum about the bar risers and the added stress it poses to the cable and everyone agrees. And, that getting long cables/rerouting wires will alleviate the issue. He insisted that this was not the case and said I should leave in the risers so I would be more comfortable while riding, but I couldn't hold him to guarantee that this would not happen again within a year, which was about the length of time this happened when I put in the bar risers. I even told him, that I probably could have done this own my own, but because I didn't have all the tools and the expertise to know if everything was done right, I put my trust in the dealaership. I also said again that I gave the dealership an out, saying that if it was too dificult, then just to put back the original bar clamp. He would not even reduce the service fee and I had to pay to replace the risers with the original clamp. The surprising thing was that the clutch switch came in on Oct. 24, but they didn't tell me (service rep was not working that day). I told the rep I knew because I saw my bike move (got a monimoto tracker - awesome BTW). So I had to take the original clamp down on Oct 25, my bike was ready on the 26th and I went on vacation and flew out on the 27th. I have conflicting opinions between the posts and two mechanics at this dealership, but with all these posts I am siding with this forum about the issue; but in the end, this leaves a little bit of a bad taste about the Triumph brand and I am a little hesitant to keep my 765. I really appreciate everyone's advice here and think that this Forum is awesome. Peace, everyone!
Hi and sorry to hear about the appalling level of service you are receiving, firstly I would enter into a formal complaint with Triumph UK and enclose all relevant information, from what you say it sound like you have had your machine dealer serviced, if that is the case then Triumph can direct your dealer to carry out the work free as a good will gesture.
It's a shame when a bad dealership spoils the experience of what is otherwise a good bike. I suspect if you were to contact Triumph HQ they would say fitting bar risers is not approved and would possibly even state the reason being the potential problems with wiring and brake line routing. Perhaps you should report the facts of the situation to Triumph HQ, they may put pressure on the dealership to come to a more acceptable resolution. But sometimes life is just too short to bother with the hassle, I imagine you only have the choice of one dealer on Hawaii so I wouldn't blame you for moving on. Whatever you decide, ride safe and most importantly enjoy your ride.
