Hi all, I'm riding a 2017 Triumph Bobber which I bought recently, there are only 3000 miles on the clock. I personally have done just over 300 miles in about three days. My impression is that it has lived a rather sedate life before I bought it. Ran fine until a breakdown after a 30 mile ride. I'm wondering if people have thoughts on diagnosing the issue? I'm fairly mechanically minded but spreading the net in case someone has come across this before or can think of something I can't... symptoms: Starts fine and runs well, revs as normal, will select gears only with the clutch lever depressed, however, no power is translated to the wheel in gear, also it can freewheel in gear. My initial thought was that the clutch plates might be shot but that seems odd on a bike with such low mileage. before i crack open the case to take a look I figured it was a good idea to ask... thanks in advance for any suggestions, especially idiot checks! Henry
Logic suggests that the gearbox drive output is not engaging so either the gearbox sprocket or - heaven forfend - the gearbox output shaft are in some way "disconnected". If there's a cover over the gearbox sprocket it might be wisest and easiest to remove that first?
Hi there! Bummer position you are in sir. If it can free wheel in gear, do you know it's actually in gear? I think that lhs and rhs covers on the engine will have to come off and then you'd really get a grasp of where this prob resides. Like @Adie P says, covers off i'm afraid. It's pretty quick then to get into the right area. Please keep us posted?
Private purchase or from a trader?? If from a trader I would get straight back on the phone to them and ask for help. If a private purchase then take the sprocket cover off first to check the sprocket and gearbox output shaft, then further covers off as has been suggested
I certainly will thanks for your response. So the gear indicator (digital) on the instrument deck reads the expected gear as I cycle through them, also I do get the expected click and clunk as it drops into gear (clunk more noticible into 1st) If I drop the clutch in first i do get the tiniest whisper of pull... not enough to move really but it is there...
So the gear indicator (digital) on the instrument deck reads the expected gear as I cycle through them, also I do get the expected click and clunk as it drops into gear (clunk more noticible into 1st) If I drop the clutch in first i do get the tiniest whisper of pull... not enough to move really but it is there...[/QUOTE] OK, so the motor's running; you can pull the clutch lever in, engage a gear - which registers on the dash - release the clutch lever and you get ..... nothing? No noise? No rattles? No drive - except for that 'whisper'? If the gearbox output shaft was turning but not engaging the primary sprocket - i.e. the sprocket had come off the shaft splines, perhaps - you'd expect to hear something .... the rattling of the front sprocket on the shaft at least! If the clutch wasn't 'lifting' or wasn't re-engaging completely then you'd expect to hear the gearbox clunk when you initially select a gear and no noise, or jolt is evident? Sprocket cover case has to come off, for sure, but if all looks correct then the clutch case needs to come off. It's certainly a mystery. Hope you get it sorted without too much aggravation and/or expense!
First thing to check, is the clutch cable adjusted properly. If it is then further investigation is needed to ascertain the cause of the clutch slip. What happened on the breakdown, was it a case of losing drive or did the bike cut out. Did you notice any clutch slip on the last ride? It sounds like the clutch is worn out and after only 3000 miles I’d say it was seriously abused by the previous owner.
as the good people have suggested above, clutch sounds like the culprit. I presume that the gearbox would be clattering all over the shop if it was that. Tbh, it's definitely better to be the clutch than the gearbox as you can at least do that with the engine in. Have you tried starting off in second??
Henry Maynard Yes hopefully just the clutch. Some one has probably fried the plates doing burn outs or similar. Other thing is indeed the clutch cable it has to be free pulling and releasing and you should have a smidgen of free play at the lever. And the other thing is the gear lever make sure it is in the right position as I find with my Bonneville one spline out and it sometimes drops out of gear again. The 865 great but the 900 needs to be exact. And welcome to the family. Keep us in the loop and I am sure we will get it sorted. Joe
Hi there, I lost drive, I noticed what I assume to be clutch slippage (ie less/no power) as I was driving through town, really had to up the revs to move away from the stop lights... then as I got out of town I just wasn't getting the response from the throttle that I expected. 10 minutes later I was coasting, with no power but still reving.
Hi there, I lost drive, I noticed what I assume to be clutch slippage (ie less/no power) as I was driving through town, really had to up the revs to move away from the stop lights... then as I got out of town I just wasn't getting the response from the throttle that I expected. 10 minutes later I was coasting, with no power but still reving.
Is the clutch operated by cable or hydraulic? I hesitate to say this but it sonds ominously like worn out clutch friction plates. If that's the case then with only 3000 miles on it that clucth has been seriously abused.
Cheers Henry, thanks for the extra info. It does sound like your clutch has completely burned out and is not allowing the power to be transmitted through to the final drive. So you will need new clutch friction plates, maybe even the steel ones but you won’t know if they are usable until the clutch is dismantled. If they are straight and not too “blued” you should get away with just the friction plates, soaked in oil overnight before fitting (assuming you are doing the work yourself). I’d then check carefully that the lever, cable and lift mechanism is all working perfectly, the last thing you need is to put a new clutch in and then find that something is binding and not allowing the clutch to work properly.
It does sound like the clutch plates are well and truly fried and or the adjustment is way out, never seen a clutch that does nothing even when fried there is usually some drag when engaged which is why I am wondering if its down to adjustment as well.
Thanks all! That was my instinct, it is good to hear that most of you seem to think the same is the most obvious fault given the described symptoms. The clutch is cable btw. I'll take the case off and see, honestly I'm hoping for friction plates as a relatively simple swap out. If anyone has specific recommendations for sources of said plates or easy/recommended upgrades I should be considering whilst in there, I would gratefully receive them. Fingers crossed for a happy ending, I'll keep you all updated Thanks again for hearing me out and giving me your thoughts and advice Very Best Henry
Henry Maynard. That's why we are here in the asylum. The dealers found out we were helping to many people out and taking their kitty so they had us all committed. When you check look to see if someone has fitted a slipper clutch as they can go wrong and usually a simple fix. Joe.
A long time ago, when I did my first oil change on my old CB250, I put in the wrong oil filled it up with car oil, I was thinking it's engine oil, same thing right! After 5 miles there was total slippage of the clutch, no grip whatsoever Has your bike had an oil change recently? My other thought is possibly something has come loose in the clutch assembly meaning it can't engage, but this would have been a sudden change and not gradual as described
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