Best Motorcycle Cleaners

Must admit, mine sounds like a jet turbine when it’s working. Its very loud.
Ken.

 

Washing up liquid, I can't believe people still use the stuff for washing cars/motorbikes, the stuff has a high salt content, one guy in my village actually used "oven cleaner" on his chrome engine casings, he said "well it made the chrome oven grills shine like new" so I thought it would work on my bike, it did he now has black engine casings, although he doesn't like the new look evidently.

 

Here ya go, Iceman,
Cheers,Ken.

 

Hi Ken, I posted this previously along with a number of other forum members.
Rust vs Corrosion
Most metals want to corrode back to some form of ore. (Gold is one notable exception.) Corrosion starts with oxidation, where atoms of metal link up with oxygen, followed by a gradual, or not so gradual, breakdown. Rusting is a specialized form of corrosion that only iron and steel go through.

Rust is when the iron oxidizes and flakes off. It’s accelerated by moisture. Flaking exposes fresh metal beneath, which in turn oxidizes and flakes.

Aluminium oxidation happens faster than that of steel, because aluminium has a really strong affinity for oxygen. Rather than flaking though, aluminium oxide just forms a hard, whitish-coloured surface skin. When all the aluminium atoms have bonded with oxygen the oxidation process stops.

Aluminium Corrosion
Scratching this oxide skin exposes bare metal, and the process begins again. It won’t eat the metal away though, except under two conditions. First, if chlorides or sulphides are around they’ll attack the aluminium oxide layer.

Chlorides are compounds of chlorine. Sodium chloride would be an example, which is the chemical name for salt. And where do you find lots of salt? In the ocean. Likewise, sulphides are sulphur compounds. They’re prevalent in areas of polluted air.

Second, if conditions are right you could experience galvanic corrosion. this is an electrical effect experienced when dissimilar metals are brought close together in a conducting liquid. For example, immerse brass and aluminium in seawater and electrons move from the aluminium to the brass. This can be a problem in boats where brass fittings are close to or even in contact with aluminium. (Fuel tanks are a prime example.)

Preventing Aluminium Corrosion
You can’t do much about aluminium oxidation, and unless appearance matters, it’s not a big problem. Aluminium corrosion could however be a serious issue. If there’s any possibility of it happening you have two options: Apply a protective coating and minimize or mitigate the effect of galvanic corrosion.

These are some of the cleaning and protective products I use, although I do have more. Anyone wash there pride and joy with Fairy

 

I'm wary of any chemicals on my bikes, even some bike cleaning products are very harsh. I think the key is a very thorough rinse after any wash no matter what you use.

 

after a wash give a fine spray of scottoiler fs365 then when you ride again even if it’s dirty another fine spray,next time you think it’s wash time just hose bike all the grime just rinsed off no effort

 

So, Iceman,
Do you disagree with the article I posted #25?
As I said in post #15, I use Fairy liquid, and then throw the empties in recycle bin.
Cheers,Ken.

 

Hi Ken, you ask if I disagree with the article, for me personally what I am saying is I have paid £21,000 on 2 new bikes in the past 18 months, having now owned 80 motorbikes, should have been 81 a few days ago but that story can wait a short while longer, therefore I won't use washing up liquid, I like to look after my machines with what works for me, good luck to those that do use fairy liquid or similar, the main issue is whatever one uses to clean a motorcycle, washing it straight away with clean water will remove most of the damaging chemicals in a product, also drying is equally essential, a lot of forum members use power dryers, as do I and have done so for years. At the end of the day it is an individual choice, if you are happy using washing up liquid on you machine I certainly wouldn't criticise you choice. If a person comes back from a ride out and the machine needs a clean, if no anti corrosion treatment has been applied, then wash it with washing up liquid leave it, come back in a few days and see what has taken place. Chain cleaning is another divisive issue, try using washing up liquid cleaning that, it's not as daft as you may think, people still do it, some swear by petrol, although most know it's great for destroying O Rings, but others think it is ok.

 

I use mr sheen on the Crome covers but have a lot of cleaning gear I only dry wash , dont want the triumph to rust

 

I tried this it is good on the Deauville being mostly plastic .but dont believe what it says on the can, the Deauville is still 2006 it didn't turn into anew bike

 

Have had a Bruhl blower for a few years and it has been alright but the on /off button has broken. Just dismantled it and the switch is a toggle type with four terminals with 2 in and 2 out, not sure if I can get a replacement. Have d Spoken to Bruhl but the tech bod is furloughed for the time being. If I can’t get a switch has any of you who bought a ‘ Chinese’ alternatives got any views please?

 

rs components will probably have what you need.
Or, take some measurements and get on google!
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/swit...ies/toggle-switches/?searchTerm=toggle switch
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/switches/rocker-switches-accessories/rocker-switches/?searchTerm=4 pole switch

 

Thanks for that, had a look and the only four terminal ones they do have a flat switch and the one I need is a toggle style

 

Washing up liquid is the wrong PH for cars and bikes, it will cause damage to your paint and cause rust. I use car washing foam, easy on easy off dry with a towel then Mr. SHEEN EVERY TIME. ON the black crankcase on my Harley I use Armorall, spray on wipe off and it looks like brand new. On my other three bikes I us a ceramic coating spray, yes dust does settle but a quick wash with clean water and a towel dry, no bugs or dirt sticks, just a wipe off.

 

I use wash and wax. But then dry the bike and polish.

 

Yes, I also use old fashioned car wash in a bucket of water - wet the bike with the hose, sponge over with soapy water and rinse. Chamois dry.

Spray protectant on engine casings to keep bolt heads clean, and polish the rest, usually with Turtle Wax Ice (which now has a new name) on all surfaces - plastic, glass, chrome and paint. No white residue.

If I'm feeling energetic I'll polish painted surfaces properly with something like Auto Glym.

It's worked so far!

 

Anyone who dry washes their bike can’t get it very dirty IMO as it’s a sure way of scratching the finish on any surface. With the bike exposed to road muck/grit/mud etc you need a cleaner to soften and loosen it and most importantly, plenty of water to wash the abrasive particles away. I’ve started buying car shampoo in 25ltr drums as it works out way cheaper in the long run. Products like ACF50, Corrosion Block, AC90, GT85 etc come into play after a good blow and/or leather dry. A lot of these specialised “bike” cleaners and polishing products are a rip off. IMO.

 

I presoak my ditchpump with Powermaxed TFR (making sure not to let it dry out and never wash my bike when it's still hot after a ride). Then I use a fine auto nozzle on my jetwash to gently remove the TFR and all the crud it's softened. Next I use a good quality car shampoo applied with a micrifibre wash pad using the 2 bucket method on the plastics and paint with various brushes and a small mf mit on the more fiddly bits. Then I rinse off with the jetwash, always making sure I don't aim the nozzle directly at the electrics/bearings etc. I then use a pet dryer similar to this one to dry the bike, starting at the screen then moving front to back/top to bottom.

https://ebay.us/m/qMIFeV

I don't blow into sensitive bits like handlebar switches etc, but across them so the air sucks the water out other than blowing it in.

Once dry I use some quick detailing spray with 2 Kirkland Microfibre cloths, one to apply and 1 to do the final wipe off. Job done

In winter I use FS365 to keep the moisture at bay as there's no point me using something like XCP clear as I don't ride in crap weather if I can avoid it abd deffo not when there's salt on the roads.

My bikes also get PPF applied professionally when I first get them. Not that I'm anal or anything ......

 

Those pet dryers are really handy when washing the bike in very cold weather ‘cos you turn the heat up, stick the nozzle up your trouser leg and oooooooooooohh, LOVELY!

 

Ah - a blow job?