Wheels in bike help but like you say line up pressings with forks and fit bottom stay, then the upper and then front. rear is easy as you have the front fixing and the rear frame fixings that are fixed, then it's just the shock mount bracket and the rear stay n lights n number plate holes. The 2 front stays are adjustable up n down with the 2 fittings that bolt onto the legs, some pics showing original mounts.
Thanks Hamburg, I am spending far too much time on tbh when I should be doing other things , I ve kinda told myself that the quicker I get it done the sooner I can leave it and get on with my more imprtant stuff , Looking forward to the ride ! Hey big thanks Darkman just the confirmation I needed , knowing that theres a bit of adjustment is great , thinking about it more I could put the spindle in the forks and measure the ark and should be able to see if its even .
One little trick used is to make 2 new plates if you can't get it correct, you will often see people file the oblong slot in the plates to get them to give a little more and the other little trick is don't rush it lol as you will just end up awake in bed thinking i wish i did that.
Oh you mean the tear shaped brackets to change position . Yes sounds a good get out of jail trick , good to k ow thanks darkman. Not much done to bike yesterday , spent most of the day fixing our fridge ! Two hrs changing the part after two hrs driving and picking up the part . The Ntc sensor had given up the ghost . Still , it saved a big call out charge and now have milk you can pour out the bottle and not frozen solid
Well I decided to have a go at getting the guards on . The front went on ok after filing the tear drop brackets so they would actually fit on the fork slider . There seems to be very little adjustment and chance of getting it wrong ,so in theory it should fit beautifully , ha ha , we shall see . On further inspection of my new rear guard it turned out not to be that well made , rather than a nicely equal rolled symetrical end one side was infact about 20mm higher than the other ,just too much to live with so had all the hassel of sending it back and getting another one sent out and putting pays to my plans of getting on with much of the paintwork . Still the new one turned up today and seems a little better , so will have to run with it . Started to fit it just the bottom fixing and the clamp and without the rear wheel in a bit worried about final alignment , think may wait til I have a wheel on . Speaking of wheels , the chrome bits arrived back today . I should have been pleased but disappointed to see the rims as one has had all the the Dunlop lettering completely polished off ! Complete animals .. ! The rear is acceptable just .
The chrome finish does look quite deep and nic , quad plated apparently , just annoyed about loosing orinal lettering . Next job is lacing the wheels , looking for info on the subject now
Front guard looks good, you can file the mounts quite a bit to get them lined up sometimes, bummer about the rear and the chrome but even a faint sign of Dunlop will score points
Ahh thats good news , keep telling myself it doesnt have to be perfect , then get down when its not Can I just ask re the tank paint , I was kindly given this link by Adie https://triumphbonneville120.co.uk/paint-specifications.php There is a link on the 1970 paint scheme to allow you to print of the top torch shape , this link is no longer live , is this no longer possible so you have to set out the shape of the torch /flash by eye /hand ? My artistic skills are not the best
Just use the measurements given and use tape as markers, then join up the marks with lining tape, you have got this far with very few questions so get on with it
Ha ha ! like it , sorry too much reading muddles my brain . Thanks for the tips ,I owe you a beer or two at least . I have primed the tank and its ready for colour soon...
Reading this at the moment ,http://vintagebikemagazine.com/tech...500-to-1974-nd-650-to-1970-front-rim-37-1230/ wheel and spokes in front of me , brain is struggling and the spokes are all looking a blurry , , hopefully it should come good .
rear wheel done, wasnt too bad probably took 3/4 of a day , plenty of head scratching to start with but then after realising I had the rim wrong handed all went ok .
I need to set the rear wheel rim into the frame hopefully tomorrow and this I am hoping will give me the confidence to drill the rear guard so I can get that into primer and paint like I have done with the tank and front mudguard.
I only painted the tank last night , reasonably happy with the colour , perhaps could do with being a tad reder for a 69 colour but I have seen some strange looking colours purporting to be correct for 69 so hoping I am in the ballpark
In the end and because there does seem a broadish range of said Olympic flame I asked my brothers paint rep , oxford paint services to drop a paint chip book off to have a look at , so faced with literally hundreds of shades I just compared that to about 5 favourite internet pics of 69 Bonnevilles and picked one . I always liked the browner shades so went with that really, but perhaps it should be a bit red er if it were ever scutinised by officicimardos but hey .. No name for the paint just a number on the tin , its a lesonal base and I used some Lechler Mega lack on top . Not havin painted a tank before ,I am planning on and please feel free to correct me if there is a better way . But next stage is to . Flat the laquer with 1000 grit , Mask upper torch for the silver base , Spray silver ,laquer silver or maybe not laquer the silver but it would protect metalic base whilst pinstriping ? Pinstripe Apply water slide laquer and finish tank . Does the above sound a sensible approach or is there a better way possibly ? I have built a few pushbike wheels in the past so felt I had to have a go at re lacing these . I used stainless spokes from cwc , they seemed fine although they were all bent to 90 deg and think ideally there should be some at 95 or 85 perhaps ,but the pakaging said due to the nature of stainless they cant bend them exactly , this I cant believe if they can bend consistant 90's then why not consistant 95's or 85's . It does say however they will bend to conform when installed .
Great job so far, as long as you rub over the silver base with a 2000 pad after stiping it puts less matrial on the tank oh and remove the paint from the top of the filler neck as the seal needs to sit on bare metal or the fuel will creep under the paint and fukc the paint job
Thanks, so just to confirm ,put the silver base on on and not laquer it until the striping is done then do final laquer ? I can see the advantage of this as less thickness as you say , Dont think bro's got any 2000 scotch ,is that what you mean ? is the 2000 over the base needed just because its stood for sometime prior to next coat ? I have never attempted to touch a metalic base in fear of marking it , but a quick 2000 pad over should be good and required for key ?.
I use scotch pads as they are far better for keying the base if left standing, your safest bet is to clear over it before stiping
