Chain off! Brake torque and actuator arm off. Axle nuts off. But chainguard is stopping the wheel coming out. Is the axle supposed to come out to allow wheel to slide DOWN rather than OUT? Or it’s part of the wheel? Sorry lads, basic questions I know but I’ll post lots of pics of all the nice repairs I’ve made!
If you loosen the rear chainguard nut behind the lower shock mount the mount on the guard has a slot and you can lift the guard enough to clear the rear wheel so as it slides out.
theres a master link in the chain. https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...wjz862c4qD0AhWYp3IEHVvTCDkQwg96BAgBEDI&adurl= get a pair of good sharp pliers and squeeze between the open tips of the spring clip and the pins on the master link. the clip will be forced backwards until the wide parts of its hole line up and you can lift it off. take off the sideplate and push the link out to separate the chain ends. that is how you get them off without damaging the spring clip. then throw yours away and get a new one. ah but you got that. good
Jesus it can’t be as hard as I made it to get the wheel off? The fear fender / reg plate makes it almost impossible. I had to lift / tilt the bike with one hand and wriggle it out with the other but not sure if I did it right…
Now trying to get the rear fender off. Removed all the bolts but it’s not budging. All the bolts are rotten. Can’t bear those back on so back to the parts book. Some of the bolts are metric, which was fun. Lazy mechanics in the past no doubt. Any ideas on where to get old school looking Imperial / Whitfield fasteners from a one stop shop online type of joint
These are the hard to find smaller domed bolts, otherwise just look on evilbay as there is a good selection of bolts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274303141878?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
State of play as of tonight. What started as a little trouble shooting has resulted in new Amal carb fitted, new battery box and wiring, new Hagon shocks and new throttle. Had to take the rear wheel off to get the shocks off as their bushes were seized in. The shocks themselves do not move at all. New Hagons on the left. Fresh engine and gear oil once it’s all back together and a new battery and off we go.
Hi all. Rather than the pain of trawling the parts catalogue for various individual crush washers, would something like this cover me for a full oil / gear oil change?
Hello all. Need to call on your knowledge again. Having a bit of aggro getting the rear fender to sit correctly, after removing it to release seized in rear shocks. My main issue is the bracket that runs along the top for some reason now sits way too high and cannot be fastened to the fender. Yet the fender is placed as high as it will go. My other question is, are that bracket and the rear license plate support in the correct order here? Should the bracket be closest to the fender or closest to the frame? Thoughts?
Mudguard mount/strap goes next to frame each side and the holes should be oval for up and down movement on the top shock bolts
Thanks pal. It’s helped a bit but it’s still sitting too far from the fender. The rear of the fender is the issue it hits the rear frame loop and so can’t rise further to meet the strap. Bizarre, as obviously it was fine when I took out apart.
Check to see if the front bottom mount has slipped down then as its easy for the mount to move on the frame and that would cause your problem.
