Bike will not start. The change over relay clicks. When ignition on and button pressed. 1 ohm at solenoid across output terminals when starter button depressed should be 0 ohms. Stays a 1 ohm. Bench tested solenoid pulls in fine audible click. By passed solenoid, earth to frame positive to starter motor motor turns over. Replaced relay to rule it out still just clicks. Car battery charged starts other bikes no problem. Fuel pump primes OK. Lights cut out as they are supposed to when starter motor button depressed. When tracing the voltage from button to relay to connections on solenoid no voltage.
What are you getting? Starting System Symptoms: Weak battery symptoms: -- Slow cranking. -- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed. -- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking. Repair: -- Charge/Test/Replace battery. Failure Modes: -- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting. -- Won't hold a charge. -- Low voltage/cell failure. Preventative Maintenance: -- Check fluid levels regularly -- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger. Ignition Coil failure symptoms: -- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking. -- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning. -- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles Repair: -- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils. Failure Mode: -- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark. Preventative Maintenance: -- None Testing: Pickup Coil failure symptoms: -- No spark at all -- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool. -- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss. Repair: -- Replace pickup coil Failure mode: -- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period. Preventative Maintenance: -- None. Get a spare. Testing: -- Ohms checks hot and cold. Worn starter symptoms: -- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear. -- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound. -- Click from under seat but no cranking. Failure Mode: -- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage. -- Bearing failure related to brush wear. Repair: -- Rebuild or replace. Preventative Maintenance: -- Maintain battery in peak condition. -- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in. -- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again. Worn sprag clutch symptoms: -- Very loud rattling when cranking -- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn Falure Mode: -- Breakage Repair: -- Replace sprag clutch Preventative Maintenance: -- Maintain battery in peak condition. -- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in. Worn starter solenoid: -- Click from under seat but no cranking. -- Won't crank after rocking bike. -- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected. Failure mode: -- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction. -- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut. -- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement. Preventative Maintenance: -- None. Repair: -- Replace starter solenoid. Testing: -- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoid contacts.
Hello all got it sussed today. Got the battery connectedcagain today and decided to try pulling the clutch in and then pressing the starter button engine now turning over. Not fired up yet as battery did not quite have enough in it to get up to full cranking speed hopefully charge tonight and get it started tommorow. Is this how all 955i are started.
Hi Steven, can I just offer a word of warning to you? DO NOT try to start this engine with a less than 100% battery. If you do, there's a danger of damaging the sprag clutch and it's a costly repair.
