In examining the various vacuum lines under the tank, I found several that had fallen off. The air intake manifold has two fittings on the rear that no longer have hoses. The crankcase ventilation hose was easy, I just removed it, undid the clip, and moved it back on. The right side vacuum hose that goes to the little junction box with a myriad of other smaller hoses looks like it is more important, no doubt part of the whole system of controlling fuel, air, etc. That hose ending was bad, so I cut off the rot and will add a hose clamp, which it must have lost. This whole vacuum system might be best looked over by the shop, so I plan to add that to work they will do. It's incredible how complex the vacuum system on this bike is compared to my KLR-650. Got the new rear turn signals on the bike, washed the whole bike some in the storage unit, and have the gas cap back on the tank with the new fuel pump plate gasket on, new fuel filter fitted, and the battery electrolyte added to the battery, battery charged, and some string fitted to the terminals in order to lower it into place easily.
OK, the fuel pressure regulator hose connection has been figured out. It goes from the left hand outlet on the back of the air box to the side of the fuel pump plate. The hose mysteriously vanished, so I ordered a new one. The idle speed control valve hose goes to the fitting right of the fuel pressure regulator fitting on the air box. Still looking up where that attaches, but I'm guessing it's near the throttle body. That hose too mysteriously vaporized. Nothing at all left. Both hose must have rotted off and fallen out. I identified that valve body as the Idle Air Control system. Those hoses seem to be OK, though the caps on the valve body were rotten and I replaced them.
OK, got the gas tank and battery back on the bike and all I get is the headlights and a nice, yellow engine light. The starter doesn't even want to turn. So I'm looking into getting a code reader. Did 1998 Daytonas have a OBD 2 connector? They only show a proprietary code reader in the manuals. I'm off to look at the wiring harness again, but all I saw was a collection of square relays that go into one wire harness bundle. Of course there is also a mounted fuse box.
Yes there is an OBD 2 connection. You will find it hanging out of the loom under the seat on the R/H side. You should look into TuneECU for reading error codes but also checking and altering several other parameters including the ability to check/change engine maps.
I found a rectangular connector that had a white cover piece with a jumper wire, which looks like the one for the code reader. It is not the standard trapezoidal connector that is on common code readers for modern cars. Is that the OBD 2 connector? Where can I get a cable to connect that with a computer to run TuneECU?
No that is where the alarm connected to and the shorting block is used when the alarm is removed, (as almost every one has been because they were a pain in the arse). The OBD2 connector is the usual shape and should have a soft rubber cap for protection. It will be there somewhere. TuneECU is free software, all you need to get is a compatible cable, I use a Lonelec one, and Bob's yer uncle. Oh, and a laptop or tablet.There is now a TuneECU website, https://tuneecu.boards.net
Great, I'll go dig around the bike in the storage unit again. Looks like I will want to buy a used laptop just to do diagnostics on the bike, which is fine since my desktop PC is on its last legs. Many thanks for the help! I sure appreciate it.
Well, oddly enough I hooked up a FixAssit code reader to the bike and got a green light and no DTCs. I suppose this is possible even though an engine light is on, but I can't imagine why. Meh. At the very least, the new reader told me three codes I have on my Honda Accord, which I knew already. Ha ha. Next I will look at all of the fuses tomorrow.
Top picture , 5.1b shows the back of the obd connection, it's the black rectangular shape with cable running into it from the left ! They are anchored on a projection coming up from something like the under seat tray or on other models the air box
I found the connector. It was lower down on the harness on the side as opposed to right underneath the seat. Got the code reader and hooked it up and there are no codes and I get a green light.
The problem was I have the bike with the left side facing out of the storage unit and the whole thing just fits in tight. I have to roll it back and forth to get it out. I was not leaning over the thing enough to see the right side. Ha ha. I'll be testing the continuity of the starter switch today and both the clutch and kickstand switches to see if they are at fault.
The boring business of restoration has met its milestone of first start! I suspected the starter switch was corroded, so I took it off the bike without even testing continuity and took it home. There I discovered a spider's nest and lots of tree gunk. If you have taken this switch apart with the shutoff rocker switch, you will know that there is a huge gap between the plastic housing and the handle bar. The gap is big enough for a C-130 to fly through and all of the rain that can fit in Hoover dam. I will have to fashion some sort of rubber gasket for that gap. Anyway, the switch contacts were cleaned and the unit put back on the bike and it started right up. The engine light goes out as soon as it starts. You can listen to the engine here. It appears to be idling normally around 1100 RPM.
Nice one. Sounds sweet considering it has the high-level TORS exhaust which can sound really nasty. Sounds sweeter than mine. One thing though, when first started it should idle at around 1500rpm then drop slowly to 1200 when warm. That's idling nicely though, considering you haven't even looked at throttle body balance and stuff yet.
