Featured 1976 One For 2022

Thanks that man. I'll get on with it then

 

Just flip to the end if I'm going on a bit and a warning there's going to be tears in the twist at the end of this riveting instalment.
By measuring the length of the spokes I labelled them up



Sitting the hub with the sprocket side up, insert 10 of the inner spokes in every other hole (I figure inner ones first as they may be harder to get in if the outer ones are already in)



Turn the hub over to the disc side and spread out the spokes already in



Inspecting the existing wheels in the garage the inner spokes on the disc side are slightly "ahead" of the inner spokes on the sprocket side as the wheel rotates so thread in the remaining 10 inner spokes and position them accordingly



The inner spokes run against the wheel rotation or anti clockwise as seen from the disc side so move all the spokes as far as they go in that direction keeping them in pairs

 

Then positioning a couple of wood blocks to keep the rim up and allow some working room lay the rim over the correct way round. In this case the Akront stamps on the sprocket side * later edit* well that's wrong - it should have been on the disc side to match the other bike but no matter now



The rim has holes in groups of 4 that point towards a similar spot in the centre. Checking on the other rear wheels the inner spokes connect into the 'first' two holes in the group of 4 looking at them as if they run clockwise



The sprocket side inner spoke goes in the 'first' hole and the disc side inner spoke goes into the 'second' hole. Apply some copper grease to the thread (as stainless spokes weld themselves to the nipples apparently) and lightly screw on a nipple to hold in place



Work all the way round the rim threading on the nipples in pairs



Now move the whole thing to the edge of the workbench to allow the right outer spokes (the shorter ones as the rim needs to be pulled that way away from the sprocket) to be threaded in from below. These go into the 'last' hole of the group of 4. Thread on a nipple as each one goes in all the way round the rim moving the rim as required.

 

Turn the whole wheel over on the workbench and thread the left side outer spokes in. Follow the angle of the other side's outer spokes and thread on the nipples all the way round the rim. These go into the 'third' hole in the group of 4.



Once they are all in you then have a complete wheel all laced up. Hooray.



Here's the twist. In this case there's obviously a problem with sizes. What?!! WTF.
It's an 18" rim the spokes are the correct length, the hub measures the same as those on the other bikes.

Of course, what a bloody tit I am. Knowing where the rim came from (the custom shop down the road) it's off a bloody Harley Whatsitmaface chopper 'aint it. That's what he builds down there. I, wrongly, assumed an 18" 40 holed rim would just fit. Harleys have different hubs. The rim is deeper at the rim centre. It's exactly the bloody same as the one I've got sitting in the chop in front of me in the garage.
So, I could cut the spokes and thread them to suit but I still don't know if I could make the thing work for the T140 rear. I could try that with the old spokes and see if that works as I've got the hub etc.
Ok, I give in. I'm gonna buy a new WM3 rim to match the rusty one and use these spokes to replace the existing rusty ones and go with what I know works. Ah well, another tyre to get off and wheel to build. As that wheel is wrongly built it needs doing anyway.

But, essentially, it's done. I can start the taking apart, powder coating, painting. And the rebuild electrics, brakes etc etc etc. That's that then......

 

Blimey Gents!
I'm gonna ask the Admin Staff to read this, I've been tellin' her for ages that the bangs, crashes, loud music and hearty swearing is an artist at work. Then I'm off to lord it over the HOG guys at Riders to tell them about the blue plaque that's about to be positioned at my halls of residence (garage).
I think I need a new hammer
Cheers Gang......over....

 

All coming apart now, so tins to paint.





I was considering getting some gold pinstripe tape and burying it in the lacquer or maybe just brush them on like I usually do. But there's loads of them in the 1966 TT design.

 

Then @Tigcraft reminded me (on the XS650 thread) that there's another way. This is the way, put some gold on



Mask that up



Put some red on

 

Move the masking



Put some white on



Take the mask off



Not your usual TT design but I wanted painted mudguards rather than chrome. I'm also gonna paint the side panels rather than black.
There's a few touch ups and a spot of lettering to do before the clear. Thanks @Tigcraft

 

Thanks @Sandi T , streetglidefenderchip is my middle name - "Iron streetglidefenderchip Bru" - made from girders don't ya know (you need to roll the middle R in girders). Easy, but the travelling expenses will be a bit excessive. I'll bring my airbrush and sunglasses

 

Wondered what to do with the side panels. So plastic primer and then white. Didn't want Bonneville straight so could be 750 or let's go 45 for cu. in. or maybe go Roman XLV? Opted for 45, so first put on some gold



Then farted around with numeral designs and lightly pencilled on trying to level and centre up. Then using the plastic type masking pin line tape. Tape on the 45



Mask up for the red

 

Slap on some red



Take off the outside mask and mask up the red (hoping that it's gone off enough not to be pulled up by the tape when it comes off)



Slappydee-dash some white on (only very experienced painters can do that )



Take all the masks off, tidy up a bit erasing the pencil off of the gold. Spray a very light intercoat on just until I've decided if I want anything else on there and Bob's yer Auntie



Hand painted Bonneville onto the tank. I may do this on the side panels as well or maybe "Made in England"