1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project - Any Advice

Discussion in 'Vintage Classics' started by Sundance, Sep 15, 2021.

  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  1. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
    692
    243
    appalachia usa
    • Agree Agree x 1
  2. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA

    So - Looks like I will have the opportunity for some more learning. I will probably need your help when I finally get to this point. Thanks for the advice!
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Timmy Tucker

    Timmy Tucker Elite Member

    Apr 20, 2019
    3,180
    800
    Newmarket
    Bump
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    Exhaust pipe hangers - so I took a couple of EMGO exhaust pipe hangers and modified them a bit to provide support to my upswept pipes. They seem pretty secure now. I think if I had a bit more equipment I could make something a bit more elegant so perhaps in the future I may try something different but this will do for now.

    I am getting close to needing to install oil and fuel lines. I’d appreciate any advice about the sizes and type of lines I should use as well as the kind of fasteners/clips that work well. Thanks for any advice!

    IMG_2881.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 2
  5. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
    692
    243
    appalachia usa
    did you decide on what carbs to use yet?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  6. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    Yes, after a lot of going back and forth a bit I ordered some Amal Premier 930 Aluminum concentrics - when I finally found them.
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  7. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
    692
    243
    appalachia usa
    cant offer suggestions on the amals.

    but on the hoses, i use 5/16 fuel injection-rated hose for fuel and oil.

    then ordinary worm drive clips. nothing fancy here. but be very careful when you push th ehose onto the lines under the gearbox and elsewhere so that you dont cut a scallop of rubber off and plug up your hose from the start. lube the tubes with a little oil and gently twist the hoses on.

    two hose clamps per junction is better than one.
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  8. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    Thanks for the advice on fuel/oil lines, as well as the clips. I see how one could plug the hose when installing. Hopefully this is not something you did in the past? I will be careful. Someone else mentioned putting the ends in boiling water to help install the lines.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  9. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    I finally got my carburetors and hope to install them shortly. These are the matched, left and right 930 concentric premier alloy body carbs. I am wondering if I should change the jetting of these before I install them and appreciate any advice on this. The box indicates the Main is 200, N/Jet 106, Pilot RJ17, Valve 3. I don’t know what all these numbers mean but sure some of you do. As my bike has the 750 kit on it I am wondering if I need to change out the jets? Thanks for your advice on this.

    Also, I ordered a Triumph Inlet Carburetor Mount Set 14-1301 Stiff-Nut Cupped Washer 1970 & On - New. So for some reason I thought I would need these to install my carbs. They seem to be a sort of rubber mount. But from my parts book it looks like the carbs on my bike were installed with just a locking nut. Any advice on using these other stiff-nut cupped washers?

    Lastly, I’m working on putting my oil lines together. I installed a choppahead oil tank. I’ve got this alloy rocker oil feed pipe that I am planning to use. So it seems seems like the oil, whether in my feed pipe or the standard feed pipe, somehow flows through the pipes and fills up the space in between the chrome dome nuts and everything else with enough pressure to finally make it into the end of the rocker spindles. Is that how it works? It seems to me with the dome nuts tightened down the oil would no make it to the end of the rocker shafts. Am I missing something here?

    Thanks for any assistance!

    IMG_2909.jpeg

    IMG_2911.jpeg

    IMG_2913.jpeg

    IMG_2907.jpeg

    IMG_2902.jpeg

    IMG_2904.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 2
  10. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
    692
    243
    appalachia usa
    #310 speedrattle, Apr 24, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2022
    th ecupped wahers et al are the way to go. a weakness of amals is tha when you overtighten th emounting nuts you bend the flange. the rubber/cupped washer kits keep you from doing this, by bottoming out the nuts before theyre too tight. use the kit.

    i generally dont use amals, althought they are a decent and straightforwrd carburetor. from my experiene with the similar mikuni (made by the same engineers) i would suggest thatthe pilot, needle jet, and needle are probably good with the 750 kit.

    you may need to adjust to a smaller number slide and a larger main jet and a higher needle position to accomodate the 750.

    the domed oil feed nuts do not restrict the flow to the rocker shafts. they just hold the oil feed pipe in position. tighten them carefully to 25 pound feet, and stick a big screwdriver under th epipe when you do to avoid twisting the pipe down.

    what spark plugs are you using?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    Thanks for the advice! I'm using Champion N3C's.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    Also, I see that there are phenolic insulating spacers of various widths to use along with the gasket when installing the carbs. Do you know if this part is necessary - or is it recommended? Thanks again.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
    692
    243
    appalachia usa
    those spacers insulate the carb from the cylinder head and keep the fuel in the float bowl from overheating. spigot mount carbs using a rubber tube dont need them, but the solid metal mounted amals can get pretty hot.

    the kits contain more than you typically need to fit a variety of machines. i dont know what combination would be appropriate for yours, but there's lots of knowledge on this forum. somebody will have the answer.

    the N3Cs are the reccomended plug for your motor.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  14. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    On the Amals and fastening them, I saw one of Raber's old videos explaining the various set ups. So I think I've got a good understanding of the various options. I think on my bike originally it was just metal to metal, and the various fixes came later (maybe). I think I am going to try to get the thicker O rings and other fasteners to make the carbs sort of rubber mounted. Seems like a good fix. The Amals come with the thin O ring so I'll need to get the thicker one. This keeps the carb separated from the manifold so it allows for cooler running, which was the reason for the phenolic spacers in the other version of fastening the carbs.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. Iron

    Iron Elite Member

    Dec 29, 2021
    2,152
    943
    Bob Ross Studios
    • Agree Agree x 1
  16. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    I have a question regarding the setup of the carburetor manifold. How does one determine how far to screw in the manifold? Do you screw it in as far as it will go then set the lock nut - or do you determine to set it at a certain distance and then lock it with the nut. I appreciate any advice.

    IMG_2950.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 2
  18. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

    Oct 26, 2015
    6,939
    1,000
    Southcoast of the UK Earth
    I just screw them in as far as they go with a little non hardening sealer and get them the same length as best as the threads will allow.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  19. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
    Subscriber

    Aug 2, 2021
    165
    93
    Arlington, VA
    More advice needed for my carburetor install. So I have new carb manifolds and thanks to a forum member they are now painted with metallic rust-o-leum. I also just received the mounting nuts for the carbs and notice that the studs on the manifolds are too long for the nuts to tighten the carburetors - see photos. So now I am wondering how to manage this. I see there are phenolic spacers available in various thicknesses, like 30mm. I suppose using one of these on each side would allow the nuts to engage the carbs. Any advice on this? Also, if one uses the phenolic spacers how does one use, or not use, gaskets? The carbs have a very thing O-ring. So If I am to use phenolic spacers to get the proper distance for the nuts to engage, where would I need to use gaskets? Thanks for any help.

    IMG_2956.jpeg

    IMG_2957.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  20. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
    692
    243
    appalachia usa
    lol

    theyre all like that, i think. hold the carb a bit away from the head and put the nuts on, then tighten the nuts as you guide the carb closer to the head.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
Loading...

Share This Page