1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project - Any Advice

Discussion in 'Vintage Classics' started by Sundance, Sep 15, 2021.

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  1. Iron

    Iron Elite Member

    Dec 29, 2021
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    #281 Iron, Mar 31, 2022
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2022
    Can you get it positioned into the vice to get some pressure onto the lock nut while turning it. Probably not. Small piece of tube over the stud onto the stator then use a nut to pressure it that way. Again probably not. Double nut the stud and weld the lock nut onto a bar that is then held in the vice. Bugger, nope.
    It'll be a cutting job then, drill the lock nut and split it.
    You'll probably need a new stud (or all three if the thread failed in the stud, I wouldn't trust any of them) and obviously good quality lock nuts.
    I would bin all the shite lock nuts if the thread has gone in that one. 20lbs is the required torque on these, no loctite needed.
     
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  2. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    20 will strip the stud, in my sorry experience. i just tighten em up to firm wrist tight.

    if the nut is spinning but wont come off its likely the stud is history
     
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  3. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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    Well, I had another stud so I ended up cutting the nut off the stud with my dremel, obviously nicked the stud as well. I had to get it off my stator. So no problem with the case and the studs fitting into the case thankfully. Now just installed with new lock nuts and washers. Torqued to 10 lbs and seems good and got my proper clearances between rotor/stator. Thanks for all the tips all!
     
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  4. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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    Any tips on adjusting the pressure plate before I put on the primary cover. Is there some way to know if the three nuts are adjusted properly? Or do I keep the primary cover off for a bit longer?

    IMG_2795.jpeg
     
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  5. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

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    As a rule as long as you see the threads poking thru adjusters its ok and make sure you adjust each one so as the plate lifts equally, i just do it by eye but some like there dial gauges lol. Make sure you have set the pushrod adjuster as well with a slack cable and from fully screwed in 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn out :)
     
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  6. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    ive done it with a dial indicator and its no better than by eye,. dial indicator accuracy is really over kill on this.

    i pull in th eclutch lever and tie it there with cord, then lean over the bike seat from the right and rotste the clutch basket with th ekickstart lever.

    you can see the wobbling of the raised pressure plate quite clearly doing this, and its easy to get right
     
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  7. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

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    how did you measure this? im curious
     
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  8. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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    With a feeler gauge. Is this the way to go?
     
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  9. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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    Thanks, got it. Had to attache the clutch cable and see how it's done.
     
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  10. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    no, thats perfect. i use a piece of soda bottle jug as a rough check for clearance, and then if theres a question i use a set of old brass feeler gauges that used to be sold for adjusting electronic ignitions.

    the magnetic rotor makes a steel feeler gauge difficult to use, but brass slides in and out with no difficulty.
     
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  11. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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    That's a great tip on using brass gauge.
     
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  12. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

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  13. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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  14. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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    Exhaust pipes installation - I’ve got my exhaust pipes and will need to fabricate or source some brace or hanger. I’m wondering if any of you have experience with this sort of thing? I think it would be ok with just having the exhaust clamps to the head spigots along with another hanger/brace somewhere just aft of the engine. I suppose I could use one of the engine plate bolts as a place to connect a brace or have a brace that clamps to the frame. It seems like there may be some kind of ready made dual pipe fitting that could be used along with a hanger. Anyway I imagine some of you may have done something like this and if so, I would appreciate knowing your experience. Thanks!

    IMG_2827.jpeg

    IMG_2826 3.jpeg
     
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  15. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

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  16. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

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    damn

    i havent had a motorcycle look that nice since margaret stole the kiddies milk

    are ytou planning on changing that pipe length or adding mufflers?
     
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  17. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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    I wasn't thinking of mufflers, but maybe those little inserts at the end, that you can flip open or closed that can muffle the sound a bit. Can't remember the name, but it's like a washer that fits into the end of the tube.
     
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  18. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

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  19. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member
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  20. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

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    ride it first and see how you like it before changig anything.

    it will be quite loud, but depending on where you live that might not be a problem. not an issue for me in rural ohio.

    open pipes have a significant effect on your power curve. mufflers of any kind tend to spread the power peak and lower it some, while the sharp cut off of open pipes will give generally you a higher but narrower peak.

    you may like what you get just fine. ive run stock open 1-3/8-inch pipes on a T120 and it worked great for what i wanted, but was a bit faster with 17--inch reverse cone open megaphones. right now i run an ancient 2-into1 alphabet header that is slower than both, but works better at lower speeds.

    open pipes can sometimes give you an overrich condition around3000 to 4000 rpm because of reversion. megaphones can make that worse. youll notice it when you accellerate slowly and suddenly the motor will start to motorboat and accelerate sluggishly. then when you get past it the mnotor will catch and run clean.

    it happens because of reversion from the pipes at cam overlap, when a pressure pulse from the end of the exhaust pipe travels back across the piston and through the open intake valve. it reverses the incoming mixture and pushes it out over the jets through the bellmouth, then sucks it back in again. the result is that the intake charge passes the jets three times and becomes overricjh in that rpm range. its just rpm related. has nothing to do with throttle position.

    you can see it happen with the machine on a stand when you blip the throttle. a cloud of mixture will suddenly appear in front of the carburetter, and then it will get sucked in. i have a video of it that ill see if i can find.
     
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