1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project - Any Advice

Discussion in 'Vintage Classics' started by Sundance, Sep 15, 2021.

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  1. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    thanks for this comment. I decided to take it apart and try again as I had another issue.
     
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  2. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    In addition to my concern about the crank’s freedom of movement, I noticed that every once in awhile the left rod stuck slightly at the same place. It didn’t happen all the time but when it did it was at the same place. So when I loosed the case bolts quite a bit, then the crank ran freely and was able to rotate on it’s own when the rods were at the bottom of the stroke - very nice and smooth. However I still had that small hitch/glitch/check occasionally on the left rod right at the same place. It was when the big end of the rod was about 110 degrees from the top - so the big end is towards the bottom of the case. This was quite consistent, it didn’t always happen, but when it did it was in the same place. So I could not really have a clear conscience to not check this out. So I separated the cases and when I checked the left rod there was not problem with it’s rotation on the crank. So I noticed that the end of one of the left rod bolts seemed to have some abrasion, that is some of the black was off of the nut edge. I thought that maybe it was hitting the inside of the case somewhere. I also found a shiny spot on the inside of the case that seemed to align with where/when I thought the rod was sticking. My rod bolts are new from JRC, they were the same dimension as the old rod bolts. I spoke with a gentleman at JRC about the bolts and he sent them my way. So I got out my old bolts, and it looks like the edges on the top of the bolt(s) were ground down a bit and polished. I suppose someone may have done this before assembling. So at this point I may need to get my Dremel out and take a bit of the edge of these rod bolts off. While I just have them sticking at one point I should probably grind polish each of them because I wonder if when the engine heats up and expands there could potentially be more rubbing. Has anyone had experience with this sort of thing? Thanks!

    IMG_2562.jpeg

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    IMG_2575.jpeg
     
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  3. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

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    Even with the new L F Harris rods it sometimes necessary to remove a little from the L H case around the cam bushes.
     
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  4. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    rather than mess with a dremel on the rod bolts, i would see whether you can solve the problem by removing a bit of metal from the cases, as darkman is suggesting. the integrity of those rod bolts is a lot more critical than a minor bit of aluminum on the cases.
     
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  5. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    OK, thanks for the advice. Since the prior bolts had some material removed, I've gone ahead and polished a bit off on the bolts and case. If the tolerances were so close, I'd hate to think that would lead to some future bad event.
     
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  6. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    your jrc rods are pretty large to start with. if you look closely you may find that your cases have been relieved a bit for them already
     
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  7. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Well, I never thought this might be an issue to contend with. Amazing what one needs to consider that isn't obvious to begin with.
     
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  8. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    So, finally got the cases back together again and all is good. Crank rides smoothly and no glitches with the rods.
     
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  9. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    anytime you change something from stock, you have to look at what else might need changing.

    high-lift camshafts sometimes require the cases or even the flywheel to be cut to make room. larger valves mean larger pockets in the pistons, and careful adjusting to make sure they dont hit anything, as will changes in the cam timing. if you grind the head youll have to shorten the pushrods.

    ive had to hand-file the ears on the bottoms of my tappets blocks in one engine to allow the camshafts to even make a full turn without hitting them.

    but you just check, and correct the problems as you encounter them. so far youre doing it right. sometimes people skip this stuff. ive taken apart motors that were rebuilt and clearly ran for only about 10 seconds before they went critical and ended up on ebay.
     
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  10. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Yes, I really want to get more than 10 seconds out of this motor. So fitting stuff a couple of times before I assemble it is ok. So I've put my transmission together this evening and seems like it is ok. I haven't buttoned it up yet though as I'm having some issues regarding how to index it and know it is correct. The workshop manual and Glenn's seem a bit sparse on this topic. My engine is also on a bench so I can't engage the wheel, etc. If you have any tips I'd appreciate knowing them!
     
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  11. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Indexing my transmission and checking it. I am having some difficulty knowing if/when I’ve indexed may transmission properly. I’ve tried it in 1st gear and 4th, according to some methods I read about. However how do I know for sure that it is correct? A couple of times I knew it was not right as there would be one shift, then no more. Since the engine is out of the bike how do I go about checking to see if it is indexed properly? First time for me! Thanks for any help.
     
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  12. Iron

    Iron Elite Member

    Dec 29, 2021
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    #212 Iron, Feb 14, 2022
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2022
    Have a look how Todd does it from about 44 minutes. He then tests gears from about 48 minutes and again at 52 minutes.



    This is how the quadrant should sit once the inner cover is sealed up. All done in 1st gear. Note the position of the plunger in the little photo.

    Indexing gearbox in 1st gear.JPG
     
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  13. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    #213 speedrattle, Feb 15, 2022
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2022
    i can never get that lining up thing right with the quadrant when im indexing the box.

    what i do is the idiots solution. i rotate the camplate until the gearbox is in first gear. then i slip on the inner cover with the quadrant rubbing on the floor of the gearbox until the cover stops 1/4 inch out with the quadrant jammed- no rattle. then i pull the inner cover back out until the inner half of quadrant is just free to rotate up the barest fraction to let its teeth engage with the teeth on the camplte. push the inner cover home, make sure the quadrant can rattle, and its its indexed in first.

    sometimes i cant even do thst, so i rotate the camplate until the box is in top gear, then push the inner cover on with the inner part of the quadrant rubbing along the roof of the gearbox until it jams. then i pull the cover back a fraction, and lower the inner half of the quadrant just enough to get the teeth to mesh.

    one or another of these will wprk. if they dont i get another beer and go outside to look at the clouds.
     
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  14. Iron

    Iron Elite Member

    Dec 29, 2021
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    I also do a lot of cloud looking when indexing. :)
     
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  15. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Thanks all for the advice. I’ll keep at it and feel much better since you’ve identified that this is often a difficult challenge. One thing more . . . once you think you’ve got it, do you test it by just making sure you feel it is going through all the gears? So if indexed at 1st, then you are able to move it up 3 clicks to 4th and then back down to 1st, then it is stopped? Thanks again.
     
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  16. Iron

    Iron Elite Member

    Dec 29, 2021
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    It should click through all the gears as many times as you want, try moving the main shaft, using the sprocket if it's getting difficult.
    If it's sticking in first and not going into gears then it's not indexed. Take the outer cover off and check that the teeth in the quadrant line up exactly as shown in the photo. If it's not right, it'll be a tooth out even though you really thought you had it right when assembling.
    Go look at some clouds and forget what an arse it is and go again. :)
     
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  17. speedrattle

    speedrattle Senior Member

    Feb 19, 2021
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    #217 speedrattle, Feb 15, 2022
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2022
    if you dont have the clutch on you can paint a mark on the side of the main shaft where it sticks into the primary and also on the high gear splined part and then watch the marks turn from the primary side while you rotate the gearbox splined high gear by hand. the different gears and neutral are very apparent because the mainshaft mark spins around much faster than the high gear in first, freewheels in neutral, and turns at the same speed as tbe high gearin high. you can see whether you got it right pretty easily
     
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  18. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    Thank you all for the comments on indexing the gearbox. I now realize that this is sometimes not an easy chore - which makes me feel much better. I will keep at it!
     
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  19. Sundance

    Sundance Well-Known Member

    Aug 2, 2021
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    I am trying to find a replacement for the felt washer/seal in my speedo gearbox. I haven’t had any luck with this. Do any of you know where I can order this part? Thank you.
     
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  20. darkman

    darkman Crème de la Crème

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