Oil And Chain

https://abbastands.co.uk/product-detail.asp?item=superbike-stand&pid=1

 

If it's a budget thing then at £11.99 from a well known online auction site you won't beat these placed opposite your side stand or as close as you can safely should lift the bike enough for you to spin the wheel as for Castrol it's a sponsorship thing and there a lot of alternatives out there all the big brands do the stuff such as wd 40 muck off and quite a new brand is tru tension with their monkey range of cleaning and lubricants but Ride recommend a product called zing for £4.99 but as yet can't find it at this price without paying silly postage costs

 

I have used the rollers that are also a good budget option. They take a bit of getting used to, you have to account for the lean onto the stand and it best to have the bike full left lock before you start spinning the wheel, especially the front.

For the chain, I tried the gear oil approach on my last bike and it seemed ok. I don't mind a bit of fling as it is generally protective, but I did get a bit of discoloration on my last chain. Trying XCP on my current chain as it came out well in one of the Bike Social videos for preventing corrosion of the chain.

I think the 200mile is a bit one size fits all. They used to only recommend gear oil and it does fling more than cans. With gear oil I stuck to the 200miles (more or less). Now with canned lube in the summer with dry rides I don't worry about going longer, in the wet a bit less, in the winter with salt I will clean and treat after every ride.

 

@Rob2025 Welcome to the family. I oil my chain every thousand miles or so. I have a car jack trolley and it lifts my bike handsomely. Do tap the upload a file button bottom right corner and show us all the bike.

 

Since getting back in to bikes 11 years ago I’ve very rarely oiled a chain. First thing I did when I got the Daytona 650 was fit a Scottoiler with a dual dispenser adapter. Bought the smaller reservoir Sport version (again with the dual dispenser) for my Repsol Fireblade then transferred that arrangement to my Black Edition Fireblade. My original intention was to buy the Tiger, do the NC500 then sell it but I decided to keep hold. So after having to lube the chain on my trip the first job after getting back from Scotland was to order and fit a V System and dual dispenser.

 

Hi there!
Welcome to the forum!
I oiled my former Bonnie normally under dry conditions every 500 to 600 miles. In bad weather conditions always after a long rain tour. I used a system like this:

 

A second option would be the mounting of an centre stand, if your bike is missing one.

 

I’ve been using the Tirox snapjack V2 and ep80/90 gear oil for chain maintenance. I’m still on the same bottle of gear oil since 2010 which I bought for the 865 Bonneville

 

+1 on auto chain oilers. I've been using them for years. I still have a Chaintec fitted to my ZZR which I've transferred from bike to bike I've sold them. I've also made oilers, for the Triumphs I've owned, for just a few £. I use 80w90 gear oil in summer and 20/50 in Winter. People moan about flingoff but if you adjust them correctly it's not an issue.

 

The original Street Twin 900 and T100 are based on the same frame etc (I'm guessing the current Speed Twin 900 is as well).
My Street Twin has a hollow rear axle. TEC parts sell a paddock stand bobbins kit that fits by utilising the hollow axle. It's basically a steel rod that goes through the axle and has a bobbin screwed to each end. Simple, inexpensive and effective.
My CBR600FS had the exact same system but made by R&G. It's a common mod.

As for oiling the chain, basically whenever it needs it, which depends on the state of the roads and how much cack the chain's picked up. Assuming you don't have a Scottoiler and you avoid riding when the weather is crap it will need lubing less often than if you ride in all weathers.

 

I used the through axle bobbin type on my Street Scrambler but the 1200 has separate threaded lugs welded to the swing arm for bobbin fitment.
The through axle type are fine for routine maintenance but obviously no good for wheel removal. For that I use one of these under the sump guard....

 

The Scrambler has an alloy sump guard which takes the weight easily. If it didn't then yes, some sort of spacer would be required to lift via the frame rails.

 

I've used a paddock stand with lifting cups in place of the bobbin lifters. Many paddock stands are supplied with more than one lifting attachment.

 

Personally I don't miss a centre stand but the reason one isn't fitted as standard is obvious. It's just another way of screwing more money out of a customer or am I being cynical.
The last bike I owned with a CS was a ZX10 years ago.

 

I have tried several ways tolift my bike and sidecar. Obviously its a bit more weight with the sidecar, and in the end I opted for a car trolly jack, £55 from Halfords. A couple of wooden battens across the frame and the bike is going nowhere, and very stable.
As foir chain lub. The new chains are sealed so need more regular lub to keep them in good nick, not to mention claning off the dirt and grit first. This will ensure chain and sprockets last longer with less wear. I use the Bananslip clean and lub. Works great, if you buy the kit you get thje tree sided brush to scrub the chain. Doesn't take long (its a bit messy) but worthwhile maintenance.