Any tips on how to remove seized Philips screws with mangled heads from throttle housing before I use an extractor bit? Have used loads of Plus Gas, not shifting at all but can't apply heat as I usually would because of risk of damaging grip and paint.
Are the screws recessed? If not and the heads are exposed try cutting a slot in the head with a fine hacksaw and use a conventional screwdriver. If not, an extractor may be your only option if the housing is plastic.
One side of the screws sits tight against a raised section of the housing so not much room to work in!
Or you could drill the head off the screw to free the housing then extract the remaining threaded stud with pliers or mole grips. This will only work if you think there will be enough stud protruding to get hold of which depends on the thickness of the housing.
Impact first. Then lost for lost drill screw's head and get new screws. The thread part missing wont be seized, usually only the head is.
I would try gently tapping a torx bit into the chewed philips screw, the fittings are delicate and only hand tightened around 7nm, often these screw threads corrode so do need a little persuasion, but remember the housings are plastic and can easily crack.
+1 for tapping a torx bit in also try a drill on reverse (anti clock wise) first, it won't drill the head off the fastener but on a low torque screw like those it sometimes grips enough to unwind it a few turns.
I went for the nuclear option after trying a flat screwdriver - the extractor zipped them straight out. Will replace with Allen bolts.
I am not a fan of Phillips / Pozidriv screws and always try to replace them with socket head fasteners where possible.
What we term Philips screws are not always the case, all Japanese motorcycles, and some other manufacturers use Japanese Industry Standard (JIS) screws, what you need to undo them are JIS screwdrivers and not a Philips one, hence that's why you often see damaged heads on the fasteners. The right tools save an awful lot of heartache.
Here in the US, very few mechanics use JIS screwdrivers and never have a problem. Those who aren't experienced or know when to use an impact driver are the ones that have problems even with a JIS screwdriver. Left handed drill bits often get the job done without an extractor.
The standard screwdriver issued in every bike toolkit I've ever owned has been Jis, Phillips screws and drivers are for carpentry and DIY
Hi, well as an old school qualified mechanic in a previous life, I personally only use the right tools for the job (with some exceptions), however for any fastner I recommend and use the right quality tools. If indeed qualified mechanics stateside don't use JIS screwdrivers on Japanese machines then I would avoid letting them get their hands on your pride and joy, an impact driver is usually a last resort, that said most of us do tend to have them, usually to sort out issues not of our own making.
Not quite true, my impact driver has a set of 25 bits, some are JIS, some Philips, some are flat blade and the rest are Torx, it depends what make you buy as there and many on the market, mine is a Snap On, but you can pick a budget one up for around £10, these tend to have lower quality bits though. Ride safe all from an ageing Rocker.
I don't pay attention if a driver is JIS or not now that there are hybrids. If it fits good and doesn't slip is all that matters. Stubborn screws will cause a problem only if you let the driver slip out. I don't let my screwdrivers slip so they work fine even if they aren't some form of JIS. That's the only reason I never bought JIS specific drivers. I do have Japanese tool kit drivers if I ever did need one. What brand has the hardest tip? Snapon is the hardest I've found, what's available, guaranteed for life and free delivery so that's what I have.
