Puncture Today, Help Please

The tyre goo is meant for tubeless tyres. I've never used it in either but I can"t see it working in a tube. The wall of a tube has very little strength and the hole will just stretch allowing the goo out, unlike the tyre carcass which is comparatively very strong. I've seen the airtight system but I'm not a fan. Personally, if I was that bothered about going tubeless, I'd pay the £££ and get some tubeless rims. Changing a tube isn't that difficult if you get a set of correctly sized tyre levers. Loads of videos on YooTube showing how. If you stick with tubed wheels, look into getting a HD 4mm tube. They're not available in all sizes but worth the money if they are IMO.

 

The makers of Goop claim that it can be used in both tubed and tubeless tyres but state that it should be used before you get a puncture. I don't know whether it would work after the event!

Also there are different opinions on this type of sealant, whether it affects the wheel balance and whether it is effective. The only experience I have had with it is at shows where the demonstration wheel has more holes in it than a second hand dart board!

 

Take the wheel off and take it to a tyre fitter.

 

Failing that, if you have some sort of recovery membership, AA, RAC, Triumph etc. you could get it collected. I had to do that once with a week-old Ducati as I couldn't patch a tubeless puncture at the time, didn't have the big socket required to pull the wheel off and I had some sort of Ducati card in my wallet. Seeing my bike on the back of a massive flat bed, just for a flat tyre was somewhat humiliating, but it got it fixed.

I'd rather "Take the wheel off and take it to a tyre fitter" than suffer that again. Even if you've never taken the wheel off before, it may be the simplest/quickest solution.

 

I agree with previous post, either remove the wheel and take it to the tyre shop or if you have a recovery service use them to take your bike.. If you don’t fancy taking the wheel off buy a recovery service, leave it a couple weeks and then ring them.

 

I was changing tubes and mending punctures when I was ten years old, it’s just a bit bigger job on a motorbike tyre, can’t believe it’s beyond him.

 

Do you need help off a forum member ?

 

My recent flat rear tire (T120) I needed to borrow a bead breaker and "longer" levers and not everyone has access to these. Tubed tyres on the T120 was a big "off" for me…but I still bought one!
As for bicycles, two spoons from mum's kitchen always worked well...

As for help?
You get your buddy to ride home & come back with his truck & trailer! Not sure about strapping the bike down but I think we got it ok.

The humiliating video below is from a fellow rider's YouTube Channel: Gallow X

 

So, what general area of Cheshire do you live in ?
What's your tool kit like ?
Do you have a socket to fit the wheel nut ?
Do you know of a local place where you can get a new tube fitted ?
Do you have a manual with all the torque settings ?


To Forum Members.
Anyone willing to help ?
Anyone got the tyre levers ?

 

Sorry, I'm a bit too far away and with Covid, Quarantine and all that! But, I may be back in UK next year if they let us out - Ah! but no tools, ok maybe with excess baggage on Air Canada...!

T120 Bonnie:
- Peashooters come off easy - 12mm nut behind the pegs (push down on the pegs to get nut off - no need to dismantle the clicky spring thingy in the peg itself), 5mm hex at pipe to muffler/silencer connection. Left side also needs 2 x 12mm spanners/wrenches for the bracket (Yup, I'm now bilingual) - twist and patiently slide them out.
- Be careful not to damage the graphite seals in the end of the silencer during reinsertion. The brake caliper simply slots back into place. No need to touch the wheel/chain alignment bolts but it's a good opportunity to clean everything that you can't usually get to including the chain itself - a quick wash in kerosene/paraffin with a toothbrush (but don't let it soak too long) - dry it off and work some fresh lube into the link plates - wipe off any excess etc.... Also a good idea to check chain tension and wheel alignment after a thorough cleaning and wheel replacement - I think the chain "slack" is 20-30mm
- Rear axle is 27mm and 110Nm torque (Socket, ring or open end spanner will work) 110Nm is pretty high in general terms - so, if you don't have a torque wrench it's close to the most you could do by hand (but, don't stand on it with your foot! - I've seen this before - that'll likely be far to much!)

Hope someone can help get the wheel out - with bike on C/stand it's not a big job
Removing the tyre/tire you'll need a "bead-breaker" and 3 LONG tire irons! - in my experience I've only ever managed to get a tyre off once and that was using the side-stand on another bike to push the bead down (Yup, we scratched & damaged the outer "lip" of the rim). One time, no bead breaker nothing else worked we used a hacksaw to cut the tire off!!
Should be some YouTubes out there that may help
The recent Haynes manual is pretty good (even if they seem to have stopped including "exploded drawings" …but you can find these on the web as well.
Good luck - hope this helps a little (Pls excuse if I'm overdoing it)

 

Thanks for that Steve, that's just the ticket. However, it would seem that toffeeboy has got things sorted or no longer wants our help.

 

Yep I see it your way, aged 10 I also got ‘rear’ tyre punctures down to 8 minutes fastest on fixed gear cycles but that was leaving the wheel on and a dragging the tube partly out.

 

I realised I may have been a bit harsh and dismissive of his mechanical skills and if he’d been a bit closer I’d have gone and done it for him. Hope he gets sorted soon.

 

Breaking the bead of the old tyre is by far the hardest part of tyre removal/replacement IMO. Fortunately, I have a large bench mounted vice which will take a wheel and carefully squeze the tyre walls until the bead breaks, usually on one side but a bit of twisting breaks the other side. Refitting is usually straight forward but, basically, if you're really struggling you're not doing it right. Once you've done a few you'll not think much of it. I've found with experience that the amount of effort required relates directly to the amount of swearing! A good tip is to use some pieces of plastic milk carton or similar as rim protection.

 

I found the swearing was mainly from my mum and directly proportionate to the number of bent spoons I’d used to get the tyre off the rim. (Age 10(ish))