Hi Gothmog, I get what you're saying, however motorcycle manufacturers don't manufacture all the parts in house, outside manufacturers who make components tender to supply the manufacturer, be it Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Triumph etc etc. Often during manufacture problems arise with supplying the amount of units required, hence a model can go from say using Nissin brakes to Brembo, there are interchangeable parts across manufacturers. Take the Triumph Hinckley factory (as we are talking Triumph), those that have visited the factory can testify that the plant is state of the art, the paint shop is world class, the Motorcycles are rigorously tested even before they reach production. I know one test rider (ex TT winner), during his time he certainly put the test bikes through rigorous evaluation, including the winter. Like you I have been riding a long while, passed my test in 1967 and owned 80 Motorcycles of all make and models, (I have an advanced riding and driving re test every 3 years), often riding to and from work in heavy winter snow as a young apprentice. (I always washed the bikes, even after a long hard day. I recently sold a 2014 Triumph Street Triple 675r to a Triumph dealer (I had it for sale on the forum), I used it on roads that had been salted, I had treated it with ACF50 every year, and followed a strict cleaning regime after each ride. The attached picture tells its own story. The same goes for my other bikes that I also recently sold. The 1956 T100 I restored, was also used in some wintery conditions, (bought by the same dealer to put in his showroom as a talking point) my RS Sprint (I bought it new) still looked good when I sold that recently. We all differ in our viewpoints, corrosion on Motorcycles can be a divisive issue, myself I stick with what works for me. Even the best of materials corrode with no preventative maintainance. Until the last few years I was an active Alpinist, I loved ice climbing and winter mountaineering, I cleaned and protected my ice tools, and my full rack, the ropes I would clean and dry, I know it's a harsher environment I was operating in (-30 degrees on some climbs), anything that failed at a 1000 feet would be disastrous let alone 15000 feet and more. I just love adventure and have since a very young age,
Rust vs Corrosion Most metals want to corrode back to some form of ore. (Gold is one notable exception.) Corrosion starts with oxidation, where atoms of metal link up with oxygen, followed by a gradual, or not so gradual, breakdown. Rusting is a specialized form of corrosion that only iron and steel go through. Rust is when the iron oxidizes and flakes off. It’s accelerated by moisture. Flaking exposes fresh metal beneath, which in turn oxidizes and flakes. Aluminium oxidation happens faster than that of steel, because aluminium has a really strong affinity for oxygen. Rather than flaking though, aluminium oxide just forms a hard, whitish-coloured surface skin. When all the aluminium atoms have bonded with oxygen the oxidation process stops. Aluminium Corrosion Scratching this oxide skin exposes bare metal, and the process begins again. It won’t eat the metal away though, except under two conditions. First, if chlorides or sulphides are around they’ll attack the aluminium oxide layer. Chlorides are compounds of chlorine. Sodium chloride would be an example, which is the chemical name for salt. And where do you find lots of salt? In the ocean. Likewise, sulphides are sulphur compounds. They’re prevalent in areas of polluted air. Second, if conditions are right you could experience galvanic corrosion. this is an electrical effect experienced when dissimilar metals are brought close together in a conducting liquid. For example, immerse brass and aluminium in seawater and electrons move from the aluminium to the brass. This can be a problem in boats where brass fittings are close to or even in contact with aluminium. (Fuel tanks are a prime example.) Preventing Aluminium Corrosion You can’t do much about aluminium oxidation, and unless appearance matters, it’s not a big problem. Aluminium corrosion could however be a serious issue. If there’s any possibility of it happening you have two options: Apply a protective coating and minimize or mitigate the effect of galvanic corrosion. First picture's show no protective pre winter application applied nor any washing. The last picture is what will prevent corrosion.
Sounds like the osmosis issue my brother used to talk about with the hull of his yacht and fittings attached to it? I could very easily be mistaken. Was a very small sailing boat, not a gin palace.
that's one of the reasons why I have kept my Deauville, while we dont have salt problems over here. I dont take the Bonney out in the rain or over anything like dirt roads whay to much work cleaning. I use the plastic covered Deauville
Lucky you. I have the misfortune to still need to do 3 months a year and of that I need to know about 3.1 and 3.2 underwater weld inspection. I can say without a shadow of doubt the most boring and irrelevant course I’ve ever had the misfortune to be held to ransom to do. Approx 5k to do the pair and it an absolutely irrelevant and nauseatingly boring subject EVER!
Just an observation, but a friend recently bought a 1000cc Kawasaki bike. It was a ghastly green colour. That is all I remember. He ranted on about how good it was at this that and the other. I just saw a ‘gan’ green coloured bike - with rust and poor quality coatings on the frame and accessories. I wonder if there is a bike manufacturer that really does quality? Discuss...
Anyway I digress, you obvs know what you are talking about but I struggle to see how anyone can be as interested in the subject as you are. Lovely bikes mind!!
Learningtofly, I concur with you entirely, here is a picture of some products I use to prepare and clean my bikes. Like your Thruxton, it's very nice.
Thanks for everyone comments and help, think time to close off now and would like to give people a final update, Well picked the Bonneville up on Friday and the dealer has done a good job of returning it back to the original condition, thumbs up for the dealer. Rode it back from the dealers, about 40 miles and boy was it cold, forcast said -3 deg C. Got back and spent a while washing off, was a challenge as when the water was hitting the bike it was freezing on the bike and ground. Managed to give a good wash off, creating a ice rink in doing so and put it away after drying the bike off. Took just over 2 hours to wash, deice and dry the bike . Will been left for a few days to make sure 100% dry and plan give all alloys a good polish and the whole bike good coat of XCR now. Went out for a ride on Sunday and while would have loved to take the Bonneville took one of my other bikes, sadly I cant see the Bonneville getting much use going forward. Thanks for all you comments and help
The salt should be gone in a few weeks, once the salt has gone the problem goes away (other than a cursory clean to remove road dirt and a spray of protection), I recommend “Muc Off bike protect” in this application, (but not for salt protection) it’s a clear silicon spray that also gets the black engine paint looking good I use an old Ducati M900 as my “salt bike”, However recently despite washing and blow drying after use my rear calliper got corroded along the edge of the brake pads where they interface with the alloy calliper and partially stuck on, quick to fix but it is amazing just how aggressive salt is! Anyway glad you dealer got stuck in and polished the corrosion off, at least it shows they value you as a customer.
I ride my 2013 TT100 year round, wash it with the hose when I think of it and sometimes park it outside. Finish is bearing up well. Certainly wouldn’t consider a new one, given the stories circulating....
When you get your cases corrosion free, after washing use Belgom Alu. It's an alloy polish that leaves a coating of wax which buffs to a nice shine and prevents corrosion, I can also recommend FS365 from Scottoil. I've used it for years and it's brilliant.
I manage a design department and we use alloy in high corrosion environments, going for alloys like 5454, 5083 etc, quite a few to choose from, will not corrode even in VERY high salt and corrosion environments without any protection. Thanks for all your comments [/QUOTE] I suspect that the alloys you mention are at a cost and not all maybe suitable for casting. Even if those materials could used, I don't see other manufacturers going that way, possibly due to cost. I know the T120 is pricey for what it is, would probably add a few more thousands to the price. My T120, has been used in all weather's but as I always do is give it a clean or a wipe down. Not a lot to ask? It's all about protecting your pride and joy.
Gothmog I may have missed it but before you close the topic. It might be fair to give the dealer a mention. Seems they went above and beyond. Joe.
