Carb Balancing

Not too readily! You need a 4 cylinder version and block one tube. For all the frequency you’ll do this make a simple manometer yourself with fish tank tubing and plastic bottles for less than a fiver. Use a lightweight coloured oil or ATF for a stable signal. Google it!

 

Simon Logan
Simple answer no you can't.
Joe

 

You can use a 2 on a 4 but not sure about a 2 on a 3 I’m afraid!

 

I have seen a video (on YouTube) on how to do this, but can't find it at the moment. If I remember correctly you establish what is your master (reference) carb, which you do not adjust, then in turn sync the other two carbs to the master carb.

 

.....hence my ‘not too readily’. You are basically switching the whole time to create a common ‘datum’ (the master carb) that is itself initially a moveable feast you have to first find in increments. It’s doable if you already know what you are doing but all the ‘professional’ devices really offer speed + convenience. They are little more accurate than a well made lash up. As I said, the key is to use something runnier than 20/50 but less bouncy to the vacuum signal than water.

 

Simon Logan
Yes I understand mate. The difference is you are watching a professional doing a job he could do with his eyes closed. But if you are just having a go it could cause you so many problems it would be better to get them set up by a professional. But if you feel confident do give it a go. You always find the lead carb usually no 2 then work from that but check over as when you adjust one carb it will offset the other so check check check.
Joe.

 

Your better off with something like these...cheaper too.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/carb-balancer/bn_7024915325

 

Correct

 

The higher the numbers , the greater the vacuum ! Higher vacuum reading = healthier motor ! Shows how good seal on rings and valves are !!!

Fluctuations in vacuum can be highly indicative of valve seats or spring condition on cylinder that 'bounces' at higher rpms of course.

 

If you want to use vacuum as diagnostics then have a read here and also remember that engine vacuum is affected quite a lot by altitude.
https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/mastering-the-basics-reading-a-vacuum-gauge

 

In the vid he should have gone back to 1 and 2 again I'll guarantee they would be slightly out again.

 

All 3x are almost = and we'll within specified normal range.
There was a chart that gave likely caused for various vacuum readings and when vacuum fluctuations were in evidence , what different ranges of fluctuation levels were caused by.
I think I'll look through my course work/notes see if I have a copy

 

I know this is an old post, but thought I'd chime-in.

Many folks aren't aware that periodic Throttle Body Synchronization (Carburetor Synchronization for the older machines) is part of routine maintenance.

From time and abuse, even cables and linkages can wear and stretch. This results in throttle plates opening at slightly different times from one another. This slight difference has a significant impact on your bike's throttle response. Have you noticed that the bike you bought brand new is now a bit slower at the green lights than when you bought it? You're not imagining that. It's likely because your throttle isn't as responsive as it once was. And, this same issue is also robbing you of your gas mileage.

This is why periodic Throttle Synchronization is recommended. Now, if you're into racing or stunt riding, that crisp throttle response quickly becomes a safety issue as well!

It is recommended to perform a Throttle Body Sync at the following times:

-Periodic maintenance

-After buying a used bike

-Whenever your machine bogs down, or throttle response is no longer crisp

-When racing or stunt riding because in these sports, throttle response is a safety issue.

-After valve service

-After servicing carburetors or throttle bodies

-After cleaning the fuel system

There are a variety of options out there for Throttle Synchronization. I'll quickly give you a run-down:
1.) Ignore it and live with the loss of performance and gas mileage.
2.) Tune it by using only the sound your ears hear. The only mechanics I know that can pull this off successfully have +20 years of experience.
3.) Mechanical Dial/Needle Gauges. These require troublesome calibration, and the needles bounce all over the place, leaving you wondering just how accurate your Synchronization really is.
4.) Manometer Fluid gauges. These fluids evaporate and need to be replaced from time to time. Plus, there's the risk you rev your engine too high and suck the fluids in, causing engine damage!
5.) Professional Digital Carb Sync Tools. These are the easiest to use because they automatically calibrate and give you trustable accuracy that exceeds your manufacturer's specs. However, these come with a "Pro" price tag ranging from $500-$2,000!

Wouldn't it be great if you could get a Professional Digital Tool for this task without spending a ton more than the Mechanical or Fluid gauges?

That's exactly why we created www.TheDigiSync.com. We're not business people. We're just engineers who also love wrenching on our own bikes. We, like you, want the best tools, without paying outrageous prices. So, we created this tool for ourselves and shared it with our friends at local bike meetups. That was in 2015, and the response was so amazing that we decided to spend the next 8 years perfecting this thing into what it is today.

The Digi Sync is quickly becoming "the tool" that motorcycle repair shops love and trust for Throttle Synchronization.

Need more proof? The Bearded Mechanic (215K YouTube Subscribers) says that after he got his Digi Sync, his old needle gauges became "Wall art".

We've worked hard to get our starting price down to just $145.95 so that this isn't a Mechanic's only tool. It's intended to be a tool any DIYer can use. If you can figure out how to change your own oil, you can do a Throttle Sync job. We've had many customers tell us that The Digi Sync made the task so easy they were done in 15 minutes!

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