Replacing Engine Bolts

I have found hardware on bikes are, a lot of times quite special. Not only must you match the diameter, length and thread pitch. You also need to find the correct shoulder length [the unthreaded part] . I would pull them out, one at a time, and use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to buff off the rust. I use a brass wire wheel for this kind of thing. Just watch you fingers doing this. Quick way to lose some skin if you are not careful. ...J.D.

 

if you can sand the tops to clean them up then use a clear varnish on them clean i use the varnish from a paint touch up kit keeps them looking good

 

they look important like they hold crank bearings in ect what I would do is use hammerite paint on them with a small touch up brush colour to your tastes of course

 

csp66
Glad you didn't go ahead with removing those as the are indeed crank case bolts and unless you are rebuilding the engine then leave them be. Not only are holding the two cranks together they hole the crank unions and are special torque items and must be replaced with the exact same as any other will shear. Yes clean then and you can get chrome covers for them. That's more associated with Harley people but I am sure if you go on ebay you will find bolt covers then use your clear coat and put the covers on and they will lock in place.
Regards
Joe.

 

The two front bolts are just casing bolts ! The one's behind the cylinders maybe holding internal engine mounts and crank journals , but I think not ! I've had the front ones out , using one as earthing point , moved my battery (went for 18/22 ampere) it wouldn't fit in battery tray ! Battery now hangs off foot peg mounting support !

 

The two front bolts are just casing bolts ! The one's behind the cylinders maybe holding internal engine mounts and crank journals , but I think not ! I've had the front ones out , using one as earthing point , moved my battery (went for 18/22 ampere) it wouldn't fit in battery tray ! Battery now hangs off foot peg mounting support !